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Reloading bench! Perfect depth?

I load standing up and my bench is 38” High x 30” Deep by 72” Long. I use the same bench for all of my gun work so it does get cluttered at times. I always organize and put things away before I do any loading.
I could use a bit more discipline!
 
I read an article where 20" seemed to be the best depth. I built my first one based on this recommendation but being it was only 7' wide and 20" deep, wasn't enough room. The 20" I get because reaching things is easy while sitting and loading. If a loading bench in going to have a large surface area, maybe the 20" depth would work. The 24" depth seems to me just as easy to work with and offers more usable space. I think anything deeper than 24" may be too deep. Really depends on the individual. I just built another loading set up in a room and it takes up all 4 walls ( essentially a box shape with a door opening ). Haven't finished all the shelving but it seems to work well. 4 separate work stations. Definitely enough deck space with another shelf below the top deck for additional storage and I went with 24" deep. Gives enough room if a shelf is placed on the work surface against the wall. I'm sure eventually I'll run out of space like most guys do when they think they built a big enough pole building. For now, it's gonna have to do.
 

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Good and solid, but I think I made it too deep. It is 3ft deep. I’m thinking of making it 2ft,3in. So I can sit and reach the back without having to get up all the time to go from one tool to the next. Also the shelves I have above it it’s hard to reach stuff so I wind up not putting it back up, thus it clutters up my space.

What are your thoughts? Just curious before I go to cutting on it.

Thanks

Chad
For sake of discussion you could build a new deeper top section that extends forward, with storage for cleaning rods and extra long stuff accessed from the the end
 
I like a slightly deeper bench as to get more room to store needed items. I just keep things in the back that I do not need that often. My benches are 8' x 34"
 
20181027_154437.jpg I wish mine was 30'' wide. Its 23'' I believe. I'll add a plywood top one day.
Harbor freight wood working table.
I raised it 5'' adding 3, 2x6 feet fur weight and stability.
 
Assuming your bench is strong and stable, I wouldn't cut it in order to change the depth. Seems to me a lot of work and you might end up with a wobble. Leave the depth alone and figure a better way to use that space along the back. Maybe instead of just the one shelf you could could go more vertical, with 2-3 shelves maybe 8-10" deep.
 
Assuming your bench is strong and stable, I wouldn't cut it in order to change the depth. Seems to me a lot of work and you might end up with a wobble. Leave the depth alone and figure a better way to use that space along the back. Maybe instead of just the one shelf you could could go more vertical, with 2-3 shelves maybe 8-10" deep.
^^^^This......with sliding doors on shelves.
 
Being a woodworker and cabinet maker, I've built my share of workbenches. Height is subjective to use and based on a persons working and comfort height but depth can be a difficult decision to make. I build 90% of my benches at a depth of 30" as too shallow causes crowding and too deep can cause unwanted storage of items not being used because of reach. 30" seems, for most, to be the balance of enough room without tripping on stuff (clutter) and too deep and not being able to reach things easily so they collect. Bench length is also important in the scheme of things. If one has the space to go 6-8 feet, all the better although I've built some in the 4-5 foot lengths because of limited space.

I also build my benches heavy. My personal bench is easily 500 lbs but most I build for others are 300 lbs. or so. Some like storage underneath, others prefer it open. I find having a drawer bank and shelving with doors reduces dust and debris getting on stuff.

Hope this helps...
 
I built mine with a 27" cabinet with a 30" top, giving a 3" overhang. For stability, all my benches are lagged into the concrete foundation at the upper rear. Nothing moves when you load or hammer on a vise.

for reference, 30" is the standard depth of a desk.
 
30 inches is what I made. It gives a good bit of working space when you put shelves on the back. It makes for a very stable bench, also. I have some 24 incher's but they are free-standing benches for various tasks. Build it once and build it right.
 
I built a base using 2x6 base on 4x4 legs. Then I went to the local counter top supplier. Picked a not used piece of top and had it laminated, and glued/screwed to the top to the base. Built a shelve to place on the top. The top can be made to your length. Also the bottom shelve is bade the same way.
 
Kitchen counters are 27" from front to backsplash. I saved a 5' section when I put in granite. Piece of 3/4" plywood glued and screwed under it is RIGID. 1/8" masonite end caps along with backsplash keeps everything from falling off. I gave my Uncle Sammy an ankle and knee 45 yrs ago so I don't stand.
 
A 4x8 sheet of 3/4 or 1" plywood ripped in half length-wise is the perfect size for a bench top if you have the room.
 
Storage is a premium in a reloading room. Almost all tasks I've encountered reloading can be done efficiently on a 20" deep top. Problem is, most want the bench as a source of storage for die boxes, equipment not in use, etc.., if so, it needs to be deep.
I've seen some pics of nice, neat reloading rooms, the ones that get me exited have powder systems and presses on the bench, that's it. Kitchen cupboards, shelving, places to store things galore.
I've never understood the concept of needing every die set you own, 1 yr worth of powder, every box of bullets, or your whole primer stash at your fingertips because it looks cool to display it.
 
I did the same thing PWC suggests. Went to H.Depot and got some under-the-counter cabinets, 3/4 in plywood and a couple of sections of prefab counters with back splash along with some wood glue and screws. A day to assemble and ready for work. Very solid and the counter top surface is easily cleaned even using harsh solvents or scraping with a razor scraper to get hardened epoxy off.
 

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