Reloading and Safety Tips

[Bidwell]

Hi, been reloading for about a year without incident. I've been teaching my 18 yr old nephew to shoot, and while feel very confident my ammo is safe, there's always a little more riding on anything when you got kids involved. Up till this point, I've only been shooting virgin brass reloads with him and starting to run low so I'll be resizing cases soon. Technically, while very safe, I feel like using resized cases does increase risk of a split neck, case head separation or a failure of some type. Has anyone ever had any bad/dangerous experiences with reloading that would be a beneficial learning experience to pass on or good advice to take note of? From what I've read, a split case neck or case head separation isn't particularly dangerous to health, but I've never personally experienced or seen this, and by far the biggest danger is overloading a charge. But, that's easy to avoid and I always weigh my bullets after I'm done to make sure nothings off.

Anyway, any thoughts, safety processes or tools I could consider implementing to be a safer reloader? I should note I'm using a Ruger American standard 308, gen 1 and Magpul stock. I'm using Lapus brass, Varget 45.7 grains and 130 grain ttsx. I wont be using any loads with him that are new and that I haven't shot many times. While I haven't started annealing yet, I did pick up some parts for a diy induction annealer. Before that, I've done up to 4 reloads with the lapua brass without any signs of damage on a case.

Thanks!

 

[markm87]

Split necks are exceedingly uncommon unless you're working the heck out of the neck needlessly. I've had like 5 with 223 in 30 years of loading and that's hundreds of thousands of rounds never annealed. I do anneal bigger calibers.

Case separation is an inconvenience from bumping the shoulder too much. I've had a handful of those, and it's nothing that is dangerous within reason. It only sucks if the separation is complete and you don't have a way to remove it at the range.

 

[ShtrRdy]

Something that I believe is important is to have only one type of powder at the reloading bench at a time. When you're done loading put the remainder of the powder back in the container and put it away.

 

[Homerange]

GOOD Methodology is your best friend so to catch errors before they hurt anyone.

Case Prep
Everyone has their Pet way and you can't get into much trouble here.

Loading
YMMV but I have developed my own system that even when disturbed you can return to where you left off.

You'll need a loading block, a field case and a couple of plastic basins.
The basins you use for case prep, transferring brass from one to another as each step is completed and finishing primed in the loading block neck DOWN.
The new primer is plainly visible and with neck down one can be sure the case is empty.

Each piece is then charged, projectile fitted and seated then placed into the field case.

 

[BoydAllen]

If you only have one kind of powder open and on your bench at a time and always take the time to read its label carefully, that would be a good start. Essentially head separations are a result of repeatedly bumping back shoulders too much, and they can be detected in the incipient stage visually and by feel with a modified paper clip. Beyond that I suggest that although reloading is safe when properly done, accidents do not give notice before happening, and you only get one set of eyes, so wearing some sort of eye protection would seem to be a good idea. Related to reloading, if you get obvious over pressure signs when you shoot a round, STOP and determine the cause. It amazes me how common questions are from guys who just kept shooting.

 

[Krogen]

There are lots of safety cautions and procedures discussed from time to time. Perhaps a major one is to use your senses, all of 'em! See, smell, touch, hear. You can skip taste . . . . Write down what you're going to load on a record sheet. Look at the labels on the components when you grab them. Look at the labels when you return components to their bottles or boxes. Does the powder look/smell right? Flake, ball or stick? Smell like solvent? Does the primer feel right going in? Put a bullet on the scale. Same as the label on the box? Does it match your record sheet? Are you hearing a crunch in some process? When you blunder, think about what happened and whether it makes sense to press on or hang it up for the time being.

I could go on, I suppose. But in a nutshell 1) plan, 2) execute, 3) verify. Use all your senses and crosscheck/evaluate your work. Yeah, I guess I'm just saying Pay Attention!

 

[Propbndr]

+1 on only having one powder on the bench at any time. I also only have 1 box of bullets on my bench at any time. I always fill out a load label which stays on my bench until I place it in my filled storage container. I also complete a step for all brass I am loading before I move on to the next step.

My reloading steps are:
1) I lube all my brass with my fingers. That way I can feel possible problem brass.
2) Resize and de-prime.
3) All brass gets cleaned in my ultrasonic cleaner, then tumbled in crushed walnut shells.
4) Visually inspect all the brass.
5) Measure and trim to length as necessary.

I have 2 reloading blocks, 1 gray, 1 red. The gray is used for primed and finished rounds awaiting crimping. The red ONLY has brass loaded with powder.

6) Load primed brass with powder. I use a RCBS automatic powder dispenser but, manually check weigh every 5th round with my balance beam scale.
7) Insert bullets checking the first 5 for desired COL.
8) Crimp and immediately place in storage container.
9) Put the completed load label in the container.

I never vary these steps. If I get interrupted while working with the powder, I empty those that I filled and refill when I return.

 

[CJ6]

Neck size for the first 3-4 loadings. This will allow the brass to "fit" your chamber without excessive shoulder bump back and case stretch.
When you get slight resistance clambering an empty fired case adjust your full length sizer to just bump the shoulder back .002-.003.
Also have your nephew take his notes as you explain things, then review them with him after each step.

 

[drop_point]

Segregate bottle-neck brass to the rifle it was fired it and size it minimally to avoid case-head separation.

One powder on the bench at a time.

Get a whiteboard to write your recipe on while you're loading and keep it in view!

Use gauges to ensure primer pockets stay in spec.

Get a borescope and ensure that there are no carbon rings or build up that could increase pressure. Also use it to make sure you're trimming your brass appropriately. You can see big spikes in pressure with brass that is too long.

Wear safety glasses when working with primers. Be extra prudent when using any "in-line" primer magazine.

Make sure primers are seated at the appropriate depth.

Learn for signs of pressure and always keep your loads well below maximum pressure.

Ensure firearms are in good working order.

 

[jelenko]

always take the time to read its label carefully

And, make sure you KNOW what's in the hopper before pouring it back into the container.
It's a backup to the system in case you broke the rule of always having what's in the hopper be what's in the container next to it. Yes, personal experience.

 

[powderbrake]

Wear safety glasses when reloading !!!

 

[Fast14riot]

Standard shop safety protocols. A clean shop is a safe shop. Don't put it down, put it away. Think about what the tool or material does, and what it can do to you.

Cross reference new load data from 2-3 sources to give you an idea of what is generally safe. Do not go below starting loads, it can be just as dangerous as over!

My personal method is to complete each step for all pieces of brass at one time, anneal all, then decap all, etm... Anneal, decap, clean, lube, size, prime, charge, seat.

 

[Fast14riot]

Wear safety glasses when reloading !!!

Lol, yes, that primer going off in the hand primer shure throws a good flame! The dog didn't want to be in the reloading room anymore after that.

 

[Bidwell]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions!! Sorry for the delay, it got busy this weekend. Some great ideas in here that I will be implementing in my process. I have a borescope on the way. I'll be checking for carbon ring and just curious about what the barrel looks like in general. Anyone ever use a borescope to check for case head separation signs in cases? Overkill or just not effectiveas the paperclip method?

Side note, almost got the induction annealer dialed in. So far is showing some promise.

 

[piie]

Have a systematic process - based off a good manual.
Use the right components - read the manual
Use the right amount of powder - read the manual
CHECK and RECHECK that you added the right amount of powder before seating bullets.
No / Too little / wrong type of powder in a rifle case is probably going to cause you more damage than too much powder.

 

[K22]

Lots of good advice here so I won't repeat.

Everyone new to reloading should have a high-quality reloading manual and READ IT. I suggest the Lyman Reloading Handbook as a starter but Sierra, Nosler, and Speer is also excellent. Most of your questions and concern can be answered by the manual. If you are not sure about something, post it here.

The Manual is essential since it always available for reference at the bench.

Reloading is a safe as the reloader's attention to detail and thorough understanding of the process.