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Reloading 380ACP

Cecil S.

Gold $$ Contributor
Ok so I bought a 380 and started my research into reloading for it and well.......I got very frustrated with the "B------T" on line. So I am reaching out to the experts on this form, I reload and shoot for a lot of pistol calibers but my question once fired range brass in 380 seems to vary in wall thickness and presents a problem with reloading the 380. So do I dump all my once fired brass and replace with Starline or do i continue on with what I have for my 380 program? Thanks for any replies.
 
I would try what you have for at least midrange plinkers.... You can't go wrong with good brass for full power loads in any caliber.... The one thing I know about .380 is tightgroup can be tricky because it takes so little and a double charge can happen easy with it , but there's tons of other powders for it.... Simply start low and work up just like rifle loads... Sort all pistol brass by headstamp for best results... I wouldn't throw anything away right now you can get many reloads out of pistol brass....
 
I would try what you have for at least midrange plinkers.... You can't go wrong with good brass for full power loads in any caliber.... The one thing I know about .380 is tightgroup can be tricky because it takes so little and a double charge can happen easy with it , but there's tons of other powders for it.... Simply start low and work up just like rifle loads... Sort all pistol brass by headstamp for best results... I wouldn't throw anything away right now you can get many reloads out of pistol brass....
Thanks. I have found many of the Accurate powders cover my pistol reloading so i have stocked up. Looks like "Power Pistol" covers many calibers as well. I discovered the range brass issue today and wanted to hear from the wealth of knowledge on this form.
 
Not sure I understand what problem you have with the brass. I reload once fired range brass all the time with no problem at all. Lee carbide dies work great.
 
Not sure I understand what problem you have with the brass. I reload once fired range brass all the time with no problem at all. Lee carbide dies work great.
Yeah I have the same dies. Today in my research read a bunch on the BSinternet about problems with range pick up brass and figured i would present it on this Form.
 
What I've learned from years of reloading 380:
  • Inspect your brass. When you look at thousands, it becomes fairly easy to recognize and cull the ones that are too thin.
  • After drying, I'll scoop and drop the brass (i.e. toss) in a plastic bowl. You will hear the cracked ones, and the ones that are work hardened. I cull them.
  • I'll tumble 2K at a time. There's always a 9mm or 9mm Mak stuck in there, so I use the white plastic square socket trays that 380 ammo comes boxed in to scoop out 50 at a time. It makes the wrong size stand out like a sore thumb, and presents the open mouth for easy rim inspection.
  • I use lead, moly coated and copper plated bullets, as much as .360 in diameter and up to 100gr.
  • I've used powders with burn rates from Titegroup/AA#2 to AA#7/800x, and have found Unique/HS6 to give the best consistency.
  • The flare and seating adjustment are crucial, especially when seating the larger diameters. If your seater stem is off, you'll get the classic case ripple.
 
Try processing a diverse sample of the cases you have. Say, 5 cases of each. If they flare, seat and crimp without damage to the case, you are good to go. Make sure to do the "plunk test" before you load and fire.
 
Thanks guy's all great information and it backs up what I had already thought. The information on this site is 2nd to none and well respected buy myself as i have learned tons and still consider myself a newbie to reloading. Thanks again Ken Sommerville
 
I frankly haven't had a bit of problem loading any of the 380 brass that I've gotten from any source I've gotten it from. I check them for length to make sure they ARE 380's, then wash them in a pan on the stove, dry them in the oven, and load-em-up.

I've settled on HP38 as my powder of choice, and usually Bear Creek cast/coated bullets. But I'll use anything that turns up in the 80 to a hundred grain weight.

If I sound too relaxed about this it's because I'm not after "high preformance" with my reloads. I plink targets and steel with them, and simply don't have any problems with the ones I do. For self defense carry, I have a few boxes of Hornady Critical Defense, or other factory stuff that are more preformance oriented. jd
 
I frankly haven't had a bit of problem loading any of the 380 brass that I've gotten from any source I've gotten it from. I check them for length to make sure they ARE 380's, then wash them in a pan on the stove, dry them in the oven, and load-em-up.

I've settled on HP38 as my powder of choice, and usually Bear Creek cast/coated bullets. But I'll use anything that turns up in the 80 to a hundred grain weight.

If I sound too relaxed about this it's because I'm not after "high preformance" with my reloads. I plink targets and steel with them, and simply don't have any problems with the ones I do. For self defense carry, I have a few boxes of Hornady Critical Defense, or other factory stuff that are more preformance oriented. jd
Thanks jds, I am feeling more and more like the internet "B------T" got to me. This can be a minor problem when digging in to deep to other web sites. I did relearn that other web sites have no where near the depth of knowlage that this site has. Best site on the web!
 
No expert...but I load about 10,000 380 ACP....with every jacketed bullet and case I've found. 50 gr copper HP 75 hp, 90, 95, 100, to 115 gr. ..and every brass case available mixed or a thousand or two of the same manufacturer. Run them through the Dillion. With a different die manufacturer in every station. The Lyman Pro 7 for seating cases it won't pinch my fingers.
Then off to the real secret the Lee carbide factory crimp die ...resizing the case on the way out...making every case bulge flatten enough to chamber, everytime...even with 115 gr bullets.
Crimp dia and the type of pistol lockup or blow back make some difference...for Plus ➕ P..
My Dillion is now set up for 380 and just finished a pound of powder 1900 plus rds...and I have another 8000 to go...at least. I get a pinch blister in my trigger finger at 400 rds it becomes irritating ..it's the trigger safety mechanism..if I try to change how or where I put my finger, I can't shoot as well...so I persevere.
 

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