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RELOADING .380 ACP

I've been reloading for more years than I care to remember, mostly rifle and a trainload of .38/.357, but never .380 ACP. Now I find myself needing to get started on that caliber and have a few questions.

First relates to bullet diameter. I'd like to load cast bullets 'cuz they're cheap. Jacketed bullets are .355", and the standard for cast bullets (not just .380) is to add .001" to the jacketed bullet die., which would, of course, be .356". I see that Berry's .380 plated bullets are indeed .356" but haven't checked plain lead bullet dias.. I seem to recall reading, however, that .356" bullets cause case bulges, even to the point of making the case oversized. True?

Second, crimp. At least some dies reportedly use a roll crimp. Since the .380 case seats on the case mouth, is this a good idea, or should I buy dies with a "factory" crimp, (e.g., Lee Precision), or maybe even a taper crimp, if they even exist. For that matter, do the cases even need a crimp with either lead or jacketed bullets?

Third, sizing die. The Hornady dies I'm leaning to are TiN, others carbide. Any preference? If so, why? I've used a lot of carbide dies but not TiN.

I don't expect to load a bunch of these, so will just stick with my old C press for the time being. Thanks in advance for your help!
 
These little devils are so cheap and work so good that I've not even bothered with casting my own. (and I AM a caster) They've got a nice hard lube coating on them that isn't messy and works great.

My dies are Lee, which seems to crimp gently but secure, and I've never bothered to use the Lee Factory crimp die which is included in the kit. My powder is HP38. jd

https://www.bearcreeksupplybullets.com/380acp
 
1. 0.356” is a good starting point (some will say slug your bore).

2. Taper crimp to remove the flare.

3. Hornady TiN dies are good.

For cast, absolutely consider the Lyman M-die or Lee Universal Expanding die with a custom plug.
 
Use a taper crimp, just enough to remove the bell from the expanding process. Case length should not differ more than plus or minus two thousandths. This will produce more consistent headspace and crimp. Keep this in mind when mixing headstamps.
 
I've been reloading for more years than I care to remember, mostly rifle and a trainload of .38/.357, but never .380 ACP. Now I find myself needing to get started on that caliber and have a few questions.

First relates to bullet diameter. I'd like to load cast bullets 'cuz they're cheap. Jacketed bullets are .355", and the standard for cast bullets (not just .380) is to add .001" to the jacketed bullet die., which would, of course, be .356". I see that Berry's .380 plated bullets are indeed .356" but haven't checked plain lead bullet dias.. I seem to recall reading, however, that .356" bullets cause case bulges, even to the point of making the case oversized. True?

Second, crimp. At least some dies reportedly use a roll crimp. Since the .380 case seats on the case mouth, is this a good idea, or should I buy dies with a "factory" crimp, (e.g., Lee Precision), or maybe even a taper crimp, if they even exist. For that matter, do the cases even need a crimp with either lead or jacketed bullets?

Third, sizing die. The Hornady dies I'm leaning to are TiN, others carbide. Any preference? If so, why? I've used a lot of carbide dies but not TiN.

I don't expect to load a bunch of these, so will just stick with my old C press for the time being. Thanks in advance for your help!
I reload 380 acp by the thousands. I use Lee carbide sizing die...the Hornady is junk the 9mm Hornady Coated die needs lube to work or every other one gets the rim ripped off. Carbide dies period.
Jacketed bullets only cheap .355" bulk thousands at a time.
So in the Dillion right now with 2000 pcs of brass ready...just finished 1000 to give to my son. Buy bulk brass in 5 hundred or 1000 lots.
Lee carbide die station 1, station 2 Dillion powder measure with w244 3.7 gr gives 1027 fps 95 gr Everglades HP bulk packs 1000 or 3.5 gr to bulk 100 gr Hornaday fmj bulk Pack 500 pcs. Station 3 lyman pro 7 380 seating die, (expensive but just buy seating die) free floating spring loaded stem is sticking down, so your fingers don't get pinched when seat tiny bullets in tiny cases. Last Station is the Lee factory crimp with sizing carbide ring ...very important die ...after crimping the carbide sizing ring resizes the crimped round and smoothes out any bulges. Bullets always fit nicely in the Glock chamber. You can hit targets in the 30 to 50 yd range with the bulk Everglades 95Hp at 1027 fos ave not bad defensive rd. Run 50 gr copper HP at 1450 fps for high velocity 380 acp load with 5 gr Autocomp a plus p load. Also use cheap 9mm .355" 115 gr jacked bullets around 800 to 850 fps light recoil.
Never a cast bullet...1st 2 months I shot a 1000 rds a month out the little 380 acp. The Glock safety trigger pinches my finger in a nasty way...tried changing how I shoot but I'm more accurate when it pinches my finger..so I get a sore trigger finger missing a little meat. Machined titanium retainibg sleeve to replace the factory striker plastic retaining spring sleeve, and shortened the head space on the barrel hood. Everything else is stock. I like the 380a fun little pinker, I buy 8 pounders for it now. 1 lb of 244 only last over 1900 rds...it's cheap.. the primer is many times the most expensive component. Get 6 to 10 thousand pcs of cheap range brass and you are ready to go...extra mags and mag loading devices...shoot til you're fingers are sore ...hot barrel, no limits on ammo. Put a little lube on the Glock runs 100%, don't use light or moderate loads , my pistol functions 100% at the top loads especially when dirty and hot.
 
Thanks to all of you for your very helpful comments. I think you've saved me a heap of trouble. Ray 123, I was surprised by a couple of your comments; first, that you don't like the Hornady dies. This surprised me because my experience with Hornady dies has been very favorable. But the ones I've used are for 6mm BR, so there's been no TiN involved. I have a set of Lee Dies in 9x19 and like them, so I guess I'll stick with lee for 380. You might've just saved me a few bux- thanks! The second surprising comment had to do with cast bullets in a Glock. I've always heard that due to their hexagonal (or is it octagonal?) rifling, cast bullets don't mix well with Glock barrels. That point really doesn't matter to me because the .380's I'll be loading for are my wife and daughters' S&W 380 Shield EZ's. Still, you may/ve taught me 2 things today and I appreciate it.
 
These little devils are so cheap and work so good that I've not even bothered with casting my own. (and I AM a caster) They've got a nice hard lube coating on them that isn't messy and works great.

My dies are Lee, which seems to crimp gently but secure, and I've never bothered to use the Lee Factory crimp die which is included in the kit. My powder is HP38. jd

https://www.bearcreeksupplybullets.com/380acp

That’s funny! I have that website open on my phone to call them tomorrow. I found them while searching for some cast bullets for an old 455 Webley. I had never heard of them so I was going to call and check them out before order online. I take it they are good to go?
 
That’s funny! I have that website open on my phone to call them tomorrow. I found them while searching for some cast bullets for an old 455 Webley. I had never heard of them so I was going to call and check them out before order online. I take it they are good to go?
They are all I've been using for my 380 for plinkers. I'd go maybe different if I planned on shooting a meth crazed ax killer.

What really sold me on them is my wife's Bersa Thunder. It's a nice sized little gun with good sights to determine how accurate your ammo is shooting, and it's a nail driver with these loads. jd
 

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