RedDot Torque

[Dog214]

I’m trying to see what everybody else may be using regarding a red dot on a heavy magnum revolver specifically a 500 Smith & Wesson. I’ve tried to follow the torque recommendations for fastening it to the Picatinny rail. Following the manufacturer recommendations puts me between 15 and 25 pounds of torque depending on which brand. I have done that and even included blue Loctite each time within six or seven rounds the red dot site loosens any suggestions?

 

[Fire Dog]

I’m trying to see what everybody else may be using regarding a red dot on a heavy magnum revolver specifically a 500 Smith & Wesson. I’ve tried to follow the torque recommendations for fastening it to the Picatinny rail. Following the manufacturer recommendations puts me between 15 and 25 pounds of torque depending on which brand. I have done that and even included blue Loctite each time within six or seven rounds the red dot site loosens any suggestions?

Did you use Loctite primer? {Toluene can substitute} really increases the “grab” factor and the next step up from the blue is the red for a nearly un-removable lockdown..
I even have some of their Sleeve Retainer {part # 27-26} that also makes for a nearly impossible to break loose retention.

 

[std7mag]

I would highly recommend NOT using the red Loctite!!

If you ever want to take it off, you need heat. 500°f or higher.

Also, you don't really need a "primer" for Loctite.
And I really wouldn't use Toluene!
Toluene is an adhesive remover/paint stripper.

Essentially, you need to remove any dirt and oils before applying Loctite. Denatured alcohol will work fine and you don't have to worry about it taking off the finish.

In a pinch, spray some starting fluid in a paper towel.
OUTSIDE!!! Lol

You just need a cleaner that doesn't have any oils in it.

 

[Dog214]

So I think my problem has been the fact that the red dot(s) have been mounted with see through mounts so I could still use the iron sights. I did use loctite and it was definitely tight. I was gonna move it forward after installing it and broke the T-10 tip off trying. Unfortunately after shooting it loosened. The only other variable now is the height. I am now mounted with a flat plate to the rail no more see through mount. I will be heading back to the range Tuesday to give it a whirl. .

 

[HandgunHTR]

As others have said, loctite or other thread lockers will do you no good if you haven't thoroughly degreased the fasteners and the holes the fasteners go into. I use acetone, but denatured alcohol or brake cleaner works too.

As for the thread locker, I have started using paint pens rather than loctite. The main reason is that I have found that loctite likes to migrate and sometimes does not fully set up. No such worries with paint pens.

 

[jds holler]

Your pistol is a big dog in the recoil department. Are you sure that your chosen mounts and sight are up to snuff quality-wise. jd

 

[Dog214]

HandgunHTR never heard of paint pen idea. Have to try that.
JDS I checked with both Vortex and Sig both said they could be used on that gun. I have not had any issues with the RDS itself just can’t keep the dam thing secured on the gun. Someone else suggested the Leupold Freedom RDS. I did some research on that and one huge thing I noticed was the way the base mounts to the picatiny. Not only does it use almost twice the torque the claw that closes on it is significantly larger by probably three times along with 3 locking screws not one. If I still have problems Tuesday I am gonna switch to the Leupold.

 

[mic2377]

I would not use a see through mount. Typically when a mount loosens, but the screws seem to stay tight, there is something else flexing that is not rigid enough. See through mounts are too flimsy for this.

The only way to go is a low picatinny rail and very robust rings.

As for thread locker, that alone won't fix it, gotta fix the underlying problem. For most mount or ring related screws, purple or blue (low or medium) strength should provide adequate holding power. Red is too difficult to remove versus the benefit it provides.

Another option is to bed the rail to the frame (IE glue the rail on). Use of a bedding compound like Loctite 660 can be used for this. It is removable, but pretty strong.

This is coming from a guy with a scoped 460 S&W.

 

[Fire Dog]

I would highly recommend NOT using the red Loctite!!

If you ever want to take it off, you need heat. 500°f or higher.

Also, you don't really need a "primer" for Loctite.
And I really wouldn't use Toluene!
Toluene is an adhesive remover/paint stripper.

Essentially, you need to remove any dirt and oils before applying Loctite. Denatured alcohol will work fine and you don't have to worry about it taking off the finish.

In a pinch, spray some starting fluid in a paper towel.
OUTSIDE!!! Lol

You just need a cleaner that doesn't have any oils in it.

For sure Red Loctite is an almost permanent fix and I advised caution but if you ever have to remove a screw/bolt that has been “Redded In” try this trick.
Put the tip of a soldering iron onto the center of the stuck screw/bolt and heat it up till “too hot to touch” it will help to break the bond and make removal much easier.

 

[Orr89rocz]

I never had a problem with red loctite. You dont use alot in fact i think most over use it. Never had an issue getting things apart

On my ultradot for my ruger 454 casull i used more torque than the typical recommended. I think probably closer to 30-35. Never had a problem with it coming loose. Very tiny amount of red loctite

 

[SeabeeKen]

The only time ive used red thread locker was when the manufacturer recommended it. Been using purple or vc-3 and no issues, not even on my 454

 

[Dog214]

Roger ty. So far my Vortex Sparc II has been working well with zero issues.