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Redding premium die questions

Anyone using Redding premium dies in 308? Looking into loading for f class and want a nice set of dies. If the premiums aren't up to the challenge what are?
 
everyone is going to tell you to go the custom route...I did and after 3 exchanges went back to my full length s die. Still get 1-1.5k run out works for me . Most of the time under 1k. I did have 3-4k when I first started using it thats why I went custom. Found a issue with that batch of bushings....
 
So that's the s series of dies then with the bushings? The gun is a savage 10 with an shillen barrel factory chamber nothing fancy if that matters. Im a little new to serious reloading like this I've been loading for old military rifles for a while and just use lee dies. Thanks for the help as I am new to this forum been lurking for while though.
 
Unless you have custom dies made using your reamer specs, or can have someone make one using your fired brass, be prepared to buy and try different dies. The Redding type S competition series are a good start.
 
Talked to them for a fl die for the 22 dasher. They said sure but ide have to hone the neck to get the size I wanted. No sale.

Talked to hornady, they said they will cut it to my specs. Sale!
Fixn to pull the trigger on that.
 
Did not know that big name makers would even consider that. That's good to know about hornady. I'm probably gonna go with the reddings for now if really get into f class and decide on custom gun I will go with some custom dies
 
Unless you have a precision custom chamber, better dies may not get you much.
You cannot get a really good fit between your chamber and ammo with a crummy chamber and excellent dies.
Careful use of ordinary dies will probably produce better results than ordinary use of custom dies if you have an ordinary factory chamber.
 
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Careful use of ordinary dies will probably produce better results than ordinary use of custom dies if you have an ordinary factory chamber.


I like the way yout put that.

In my opinion, if you are just starting out in F TR, spend the money you would use on a custom die on bullets, powder and match fees. A Hornady new dimension die will generally make ammo more accurate than 99% of us can shoot. They're $45 . You will get SO much more out of going to shoot, learning the wind, etc than making really good ammo. Good ammo comes later, when you are riddled with the long range disease that eventually robs us all of our disposable income and maybe sanity. (Like recoil induced syphilis?)

I am surrounded by guys with $4000+ rifles, $300 dies and they shoot tiny knots at 100y and then proceed to make every damn excuse in the book as to why they can't go shoot a match. Don't be one of those guys...
 
thats what I was thinking ireload2. That's why I was curious about the premium line from Redding they are still relatively cheap.

Fatboy I really like shooting matches but the main thing I shoot now are the cmp garand matches and the vintage sniper which is at 300 and 500 at my club. My club also runs f class at 500 and I just bought the rifle and need some dies I'll look into the hornadys as well. There are some really good shooters in my club 1 one of them actually won the midrange at the Berger southwest nationals this past year so it will be a while before I can truely be competitive. I appreciate all the info and keep it coming I can use all the help I can get.
 
Boomer,
Though I partially agree with what Fatboy wrote, do yourself a favor and buy GOOD dies once. If you are serious in your future efforts, the Reddings are great dies and aren't all that expensive. The CUSTOM dies belong with CUSTOM dedicated chambers that match each other. And FT/R is not Benchrest shooting. So don't confuse the two and expect to see group in FT/R that Benchrest guys chase, even in competition. But remember, buy once cry once. Over the years, I've cried a lot simply because I bought inferior dies the first time and lived to regret it.

Alex
 
FWIW, I use Redding S type and Whidden bushing dies. They are about $80 more plus another $50-$60 for the bushings but I figure in the long run it makes it easier for me as it seems none of the brass makers can keep neck thickness the same over time. To me, these aren't custom dies and in the end I don't think they make better brass than a Hornaday FL die and a K&M mandrel to finish the neck off, it's just what I've gotten used to. I load for about a dozen calibers, most chamberings in multiple rifles and there are a lot of ways to skin a cat. Hell, the Lee collet die made great 308win brass when I was just neck sizing.
 
I'm willing to get the type s but how do I go about picking bushings? Do you guys full length size everything or neck size?

I've done both but FL size everything now. I need to be able to open the bolt without breaking down my position. I don't shoot the same brass more than 10 shots so overworking isn't an issue for me.

To size the bushing, measure the outside diameter of a loaded round, then subtract .002" or .003". The nice thing about the bushing is you can use it to adjust your neck tension or work the brass a minimal amount. I usually buy two or three bushing per so I can tweak the neck tension as needed.
 

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