Redding die question.

[danny]

Cerrosafe. Quick easy accurate. Also available Midway lists it, probably the cheapest.

Once you do that and get the numbers, you need to call them back and tell them what their "proprietary information" is for that die, and then tell them that it might be time for you to switch die manufacturers. When they ask which one, tell them that it is "proprietary information".

Danny

 

[Turbulent Turtle]

They wont tell you. I already asked them. The said it was proprietary information .

I can somewhat understand their position. A non bushing die works by squeezing the neck more than required to account for various brass thickness , and on the upswing the expander ball pushes out the neck so that you can actually seat a bullet.

Usually, the expander ball will be about .002-.003 under the bullet diameter at the bearing surface. What we do not know if how much they squeeze the neck. They think they have the right dimension for resizing any make of brass while still not going crazy on the squeeze. They don't want to advertize that dimension and that's their prerogative. It's also possible this dimension changes sometimes and they don't want to confuse folk.

If you want to measure it, best remove the expander ball before resizing.

My thinking is that if you're not using a bushing die, why do you care about the neck size in a regular sizing die? The expanderball dictates the final dimension.

 

[TrxR]

I can somewhat understand their position. A non bushing die works by squeezing the neck more than required to account for various brass thickness , and on the upswing the expander ball pushes out the neck so that you can actually seat a bullet.

Usually, the expander ball will be about .002-.003 under the bullet diameter at the bearing surface. What we do not know if how much they squeeze the neck. They think they have the right dimension for resizing any make of brass while still not going crazy on the squeeze. They don't want to advertize that dimension and that's their prerogative. It's also possible this dimension changes sometimes and they don't want to confuse folk.

If you want to measure it, best remove the expander ball before resizing.

My thinking is that if you're not using a bushing die, why do you care about the neck size in a regular sizing die? The expanderball dictates the final dimension.

I can see your thinking but i dont want to use the expander ball . I prefer to use a mandrel. Also its good to know the neck dimension to see if it will even size the neck enough to hold a bullet. For example these dies are .3270 (thanks to Al for the measurement ) , at that size withe necks turned to .010" that gives you a internal neck size of .3070 so only .001" to .0015" of neck tension. Now i know a couple of guys that turn to .009" thickness and at that the dies wouldn't size enough to even hold a bullet. So with out knowing the neck dimensions of the die they would waste money on the die that wouldn't work for them.

 

[Turbulent Turtle]

I'm not sure that I got my point completely across and that's my fault. The non-bushing dies are designed to be used by people who do not turn necks, use mandrels and generally fuss over their cases to the nth degree. They are designed as a one step operation to resize virtually any brand of brass so you can seat a bullet and have it stay in the case. This means the die will squeeze the neck far more than needed for some brands of brass, and probably barely enough for other brands. Redding has designed their non-bushing seating die with a certain diameter that they feel meets their requirements. They have decided to treat that mesurement company confidential. That is their prerogative. I see nothing wrong with that.

Now, in your case (pun intended,) you are looking at reaching certain dimensions and neck tension. I think a non-busihing die is the wrong tool for that. And as I said earlier, anyone who turns necks should be using a bushing die. I have several bushings for my .308 S-type die depending on the brand of brass I use. I also decided to increase the neck tension and got more bushings. This is how one gets proper control of the neck tension. Also what assurance do you have that the internal diameter of the non-bushing die is the same as someone else's? What if Redding decided to change the diameter at some point?

 

[Tokay444]

I can see your thinking but i dont want to use the expander ball . I prefer to use a mandrel. Also its good to know the neck dimension to see if it will even size the neck enough to hold a bullet. For example these dies are .3270 (thanks to Al for the measurement ) , at that size withe necks turned to .010" that gives you a internal neck size of .3070 so only .001" to .0015" of neck tension. Now i know a couple of guys that turn to .009" thickness and at that the dies wouldn't size enough to even hold a bullet. So with out knowing the neck dimensions of the die they would waste money on the die that wouldn't work for them.

If you’re turning your necks to .009”, you already know you’re into a bushing die, or ordering a custom 1 piece, so the point is moot.

 

[TrxR]

If you’re turning your necks to .009”, you already know you’re into a bushing die, or ordering a custom 1 piece, so the point is moot.

Im only turning to .010" but I get what your saying.

Now am I mistaking that it is recommended to use a non bushing die to prep the brass before turning as the bushing die doesn't size the whole neck?

I will use these dies to do the primary prep work and will be sending a few pieces of 3x fired brass to either Harrells or Whidden for a die.

 

[divingin]

If you’re turning your necks to .009”, you already know you’re into a bushing die, or ordering a custom 1 piece, so the point is moot.

That should read: "If you’re turning your necks to .009”, you *should* already know you’re into a bushing die, or ordering a custom 1 piece, so the point is moot."

 

[AlNyhus]

I don't understand why you wouldn't be using a bushing die.
The ability to change neck tension is one of the biggest tuning aids you have, especially on a 30BR. -Al

 

[TrxR]

I will be sending some fired brass to either Harrells or Whidden . I wanted the non bushing originally when prepping for turning the necks as I was told the bushing die wouldn't size the whole neck.

I think it was more of a screw up on my part as I couldn't find any 30br dies at the time and found these used at a good price.

 

[DiffEQ]

leaves a really bad taste in my mouth.

That's not an aphorism I would use in the post-Clinton Era, and conjures an image that requires eye bleach.

 

[AlNyhus]

I will be sending some fired brass to either Harrells or Whidden . I wanted the non bushing originally when prepping for turning the necks as I was told the bushing die wouldn't size the whole neck.

I think it was more of a screw up on my part as I couldn't find any 30br dies at the time and found these used at a good price.

The f.l. die you have (w/o expander) can be very helpful in prepping 30BR cases. After expanding from 6 to .30, adjust the die so it sizes the neck right up to...but not past...where the 'lump' is. This will straighten the neck relative to the case body. Then, turn the 'lump' off in a seperate step before neck turning. Doing this makes the blend from the lump into the shoulder more uniform. Another good die to use for this is the Redding 7BR Body Die..it makes the necks .316 O.D. You just lightly expand over your normal .30 cal. turning mandrel and you're there. I have and use both of these and both dies will help you make great 30BR cases.

Stress relieving these cases, then f.l. resizing with an appropriate bushing die prior to firing them the first time, is mandatory, to me.

Also, the Redding f.l. die you have is pretty much what a Harrel's 2.5 is....which is the 'standard' size for most 30BR reamers, unless dimensions have been tweaked from the Lapua case dimensions. Jim Carsensen @ JLC Precision can modify your f.l. die to a bushing die. He's done quite a few for me.

Good shootin' -Al