Redding Competition Neck dye Vs Type S die?

[TrxR]

What are the pros and cons of the two? Is the competition die worth the extra coin?

The reason I ask is Im about to buy a set of dies and am not sure which to go with.

I am debating on the set with the Competition seater ans type s full length or the one with the Com seater Type S Neck die and body die or the Comp seater comp neck die and body die.

Thanks

 

[Joe Maisto]

You will get many differant answers. I use a Redding "S" full length sizing die and a normal Wilson seater used with an arbor. Most all I see around me shooting BR do the same.
I find it easier to use that combo than a dial seater. Often times if you inadverdaently turn the dial the wrong way, ( it happens) it will mess you up. Now you have to remember or go back to your notes to see where you were to begin with.
We have a saying: "Keep it simple"

Good luck to you.

Joe

 

[SS427]

I don't think a micrometer is worth the extra money on a sizing die. Making .001 adjustments to how much of the neck gets sized has never made any difference for me.

I have found a micrometer on a seating die very useful. Beaing able to adjust seating depth to the .001 inch can be important. You can do it with a non-micrometer die, but it sure is easier to do with a micrometer equipped die.

To answer your question, get the Type S FL sizing die and get the Competition seating die. At least that is what I would do if I was buying Redding dies.

 

[GSPV]

+1 for using a Wilson-type seater.

 

[Old Navy]

I don't think a micrometer is worth the extra money on a sizing die. Making .001 adjustments to how much of the neck gets sized has never made any difference for me.

I have found a micrometer on a seating die very useful. Beaing able to adjust seating depth to the .001 inch can be important. You can do it with a non-micrometer die, but it sure is easier to do with a micrometer equipped die.

To answer your question, get the Type S FL sizing die and get the Competition seating die. At least that is what I would do if I was buying Redding dies.

Ditto. Later! Frank

 

[TrxR]

For you guys using the wilson seating die what press are you using? Are you all using arbor presses designed specifically for reloading?

Thanks

 

[dogdude]

yes

 

[GSPV]

Ok, here is what I've gotten to after several years and a bunch of screw ups. It's just one way and I'm certainly no super expert.

I use 7/8-14 FL size die, a Wilson-type seating die and a "Wilson-ish" bump gauge. I get the seating die and the bump gauge made using my chamber reamer. I get the FL die made from my reamer print and some neck size -only brass.

The seaters are made from standard Wilson blanks. The bump gauge is made from a barrel stump.

For every barrel-bullet combination that I have, I make a dummy case that shows me where the rifling starts. I lock down the standard Wilson top at that point and use Skip's seater shims to set my jam from there. This would work equally well if you set it up for however much jump you might want to try. I just haven't had a need to do it.

For FL dies, I set them up using Skip's bump shims as in Tony's book. I .leave them on the die. The bump gauge, made by my friend Mike Ezell for me, makes setting the bump very straight forward and precise. I couldn't get it right for crap before.

It's a bit more complicated than I present here because my son and I share some dies. But this gives the main idea.

 

[Joe Maisto]

For you guys using the wilson seating die what press are you using? Are you all using arbor presses designed specifically for reloading?

Thanks

TRX;

Quite honestly, you don't even need an arbor press for seating bullets with a Wilson seater die. I have an expensive stainless by Sinclair and find it just gets in the way, as you can use the palm of your hand with the Wilson to seat your bullets. After all, they are only being seated no more than 1/4 " anyway, and in my game, less than that.

 

[Joe Wade]

I use the Redding Competion die set for .223 for NRA Service Rifle short range ammo.
They are more money, but for loading larger quantities, they work well. I get good concentricity,
.002" max, usualy .001" concentricity.
I have also used the Redding Type S dies and had excesive concentricity on my 2nd reloading of about
.007". I never did figure out the problem. On the first loading, I had .003" max concentricity.
I did notice the S die has quite a bit of clearance to the outside of the bushing. The bushing actualy
rattled in the S die. My Competion die does not rattle.
On Bolt rifles I use Wilson neck and seater dies. Very best concentricty I have seen.
Just my experience.
Hope this helps.
Joe

 

[SeabeeKen]

Joe, I believe the bushing in the S die is supposed to float to allow it to align with the neck.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Get the Redding F/L type "S" die.
Wilson seater
21st Century press