Redding Competition dies
- Thread starter Buck300
- Start date
jepp2
Gold $$ Contributor
Are you talking about the 3 die set? Comp neck sizing bushing die, body die, & Comp bullet seating die? There are many variations which include part but not all of the 3.
I haven't found 1 place that is always cheaper on everything. I normally just search on the Redding Part number for the die set I want. I bought my last Redding Comp bullet seating die from E Arthur Brown. They had the best price for the single die.
I haven't found 1 place that is always cheaper on everything. I normally just search on the Redding Part number for the die set I want. I bought my last Redding Comp bullet seating die from E Arthur Brown. They had the best price for the single die.
If you are a gotta have it now guy, just order it from any e-tailer with the best price, including shipping. If you have patience, Brownell's, Midway, Midsouth and Natchez and others regularly run sales with discounts and/or free shipping several times a year which will bring down the net price to you. You just missed the President's Day run of sales. Ignoring the Ides of March super savings day, the next round should be around Easter.
BTW- I strongly suggest you get a set of Redding Competition Die holders for bumping back your shoulders. Also, you will need to purchase bushings. I would go for the TiN ones which makes life simpler and may be used without a lube.
Have fun.
BTW- I strongly suggest you get a set of Redding Competition Die holders for bumping back your shoulders. Also, you will need to purchase bushings. I would go for the TiN ones which makes life simpler and may be used without a lube.
Have fun.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Dont use any bushing- tin or steel- with any type of lube at all.
Why ?
I was always led to believe you had to use lube.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Never lube necks or shoulders when resizing. Its too inconsistent
What's inconsistent and how much spread does it have?
How does one keep case lube from being squeezed from the die and case bodies up onto their shoulders?
dmoran
Donovan Moran
@Bart B.
What's inconsistent and how much spread does it have?
Depends how much lube (and type) to how much inconsistency.
Myself can bump to .0005 consistency with no lube on the shoulder & neck.
How does one keep case lube from being squeezed from the die and case bodies up onto their shoulders?
When final wiping, never notice any flow onto the shoulder like your questioning.
With that said, it must squeeze/flow in directions other then over the junction.
I clean my dies every time/session that I use them, which I believe helps.
Donovan
What's inconsistent and how much spread does it have?
Depends how much lube (and type) to how much inconsistency.
Myself can bump to .0005 consistency with no lube on the shoulder & neck.
How does one keep case lube from being squeezed from the die and case bodies up onto their shoulders?
When final wiping, never notice any flow onto the shoulder like your questioning.
With that said, it must squeeze/flow in directions other then over the junction.
I clean my dies every time/session that I use them, which I believe helps.
Donovan
Last edited:
If case headspace (and therefore head clearance) spread is in a .0005" range producing desired results, what changes if it's in a .0015" range?
I don't see a problem with wiping the whole case with ballistol ,then wiping off before sizing . It feels like pledge on funiture . If no one has tried it, then I highly recommend using ballistol lightly using a paper towel to apply .
jepp2
Gold $$ Contributor
Lots of different opinions on lots of things. Not saying any are wrong, or that mine are better. But my suggestions are:
1. Don't buy Redding bushings (steel or TiN) buy Whidden. I reduced my case neck runout by over half when I converted to Whidden bushings (based on the recommendations of others).
2. If you decide to lube the shoulder/neck region or not can depend on which lube you use. Most avoid lubing the case necks as excess can cause dents on the shoulders. I use lanolin/red heet mix and have no problems with lubing the case neck and shoulder. My sizing case head to datum is extremely consistent.
3. Don't use a bare steel bushing without lubing the case neck. I had 20 222 Rem I wanted to tighten the case necks on. Normally I use the TiN bushings, but on this size I only had steel. Redding says to use lube, but I "thought" if they started dragging I would feel it and could apply lube. Then the neck of a case came off in the bushing. I'm sure there was a flaw present or it wouldn't have happened. But not easy to drive out.
1. Don't buy Redding bushings (steel or TiN) buy Whidden. I reduced my case neck runout by over half when I converted to Whidden bushings (based on the recommendations of others).
2. If you decide to lube the shoulder/neck region or not can depend on which lube you use. Most avoid lubing the case necks as excess can cause dents on the shoulders. I use lanolin/red heet mix and have no problems with lubing the case neck and shoulder. My sizing case head to datum is extremely consistent.
3. Don't use a bare steel bushing without lubing the case neck. I had 20 222 Rem I wanted to tighten the case necks on. Normally I use the TiN bushings, but on this size I only had steel. Redding says to use lube, but I "thought" if they started dragging I would feel it and could apply lube. Then the neck of a case came off in the bushing. I'm sure there was a flaw present or it wouldn't have happened. But not easy to drive out.
dmoran
Donovan Moran
My bump number, and the consistency I achieve doing it is separate all together of the amount I bump the shoulder (case headspace) back.
Examples: with my 6Dasher's I bump the shoulders .0015 to .002" for a case headspace, and want all the cases to measure within .0005" of each other (1.2535" being my max bump number).
Two seperate things....
Donovan
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
its like anything else- its not foolproof. I'm sure some people can manage to overlube a case and mess it up. ive never got a dent in a shoulder or a pulled off neck myself. Even the RCBS lube pad which may be more your style doesnt lube shoulders or necks- why is that? nobody that I know that actually competes at an above mid pack level in any discipline lubes necks or shoulders. most use plain ole steel redding bushings, some use CRT bushings from whidden and some use the Tin bushings from redding. the real classy reloaders have an assortment of carbide bushings from bud mundy bought thru steve at benchrite. they come in .0005 increments. when you get a straight redding bushing (not hard to do btw) you can use it for many many years with no wear- I know of bushings that size tens of thousands of cases a year for going on 20+yrs now with no issue. as long as you clean the carbon off the outside of your neck with krazy kloth, steel wool, cat urine, whatever then that brass is not gonna wear out that hardened steel.
dgeesaman
Gold $$ Contributor
Right now, bullets.com
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
why not buy some whiddens? they do the same thing only smoother and most times theyre on the shelf for the saami calibers they have.
dgeesaman
Gold $$ Contributor
Is the question directed to me or the OP?
I was trying to be helpful. I have no basis to compare Whidden vs Redding.
David
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
not toward you it was the OP- sorry about that I sure didnt mean to come off ruff so I apologize. I was just throwing that option out there!
dgeesaman
Gold $$ Contributor
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