Red Loctite...

[dgeesaman]

Heck, I think I remember back when ALL loctite was red. Then we had blue which was a 90% more friendly alternative. Now, I guess it's on a spectrum that can only be gauged by numbers. I wouldn't be surprised if there is a rainbow type for applications that I don't even want to think about. jd

It is out of control. They have wicking grade, extra viscous, drinking water safe, mil spec this, mil spec that, extra high temp, extra fast cure, etc etc.

It is risky to assume that all red is the same, but they're still somewhat similar. In order of strength and appropriate size of bolt, it goes purple->blue->red->green->(black). So on my guns I'd use purple or blue at most since red and green are actually intended for threads starting at 1/4" diameter and larger.

While red and green loc-tite are very strong, and easily softened using a bit of heat, I agree with the poster who mentioned that the average person working on the gun will not realize they need to apply heat before they already exceeded the point of destruction.

 

[ELR LVR]

I have a Pre-64 Model 70. I am adding Talley bases and rings. Would you all use Red Loctite to secure the bases?

thanks,

Rich

Actually
Purple 222 Small Screw Removeable Loctite is plenty for that purpose.
I keep a small tube for anything under 1/4", Mostly gun screws.
However!
Simply greasing the screws, allows a tighter tightness to clamp a part down due to simple lubrication of the threads before the fastener starts twisting.
Also facilitates for later easy removel due to corrosion prevention
When Loctiting, this actually also serves as a lubrication to the screws, and when dry also seals the threads from corrosion.
Many of my scope screws that I change scopes on from time to time are just greased and they never come loose
-------------
Dry/ (No thread lubrication) is the worst and is why many screws some loose

 

[Big Mc]

I have a Pre-64 Model 70. I am adding Talley bases and rings. Would you all use Red Loctite to secure the bases?

thanks,

Rich

The red jug is blue.Tommy Mc

 

[LVLAaron]

It is out of control. They have wicking grade, extra viscous, drinking water safe, mil spec this, mil spec that, extra high temp, extra fast cure, etc etc.

It is risky to assume that all red is the same, but they're still somewhat similar. In order of strength and appropriate size of bolt, it goes purple->blue->red->green->(black). So on my guns I'd use purple or blue at most since red and green are actually intended for threads starting at 1/4" diameter and larger.

While red and green loc-tite are very strong, and easily softened using a bit of heat, I agree with the poster who mentioned that the average person working on the gun will not realize they need to apply heat before they already exceeded the point of destruction.

And they change the numbers around. I have 3 different "greens" for different purposes. I went to restock two of them, and the numbers changed

 

[std7mag]

one type of red needs 500F degrees to get it loose.
Ruger used it when barrels were shooting loose on Redhawks.

Old Ithaca pump slug gun barrel use red also.

This works.
View attachment 1681152

Ooohhhh,
I like that shade!!

 

[ISS]

243winxb,

THANK YOU!!!! for the chart. Headed to the Harbor Freight in a few

Rich

 

[Lee Whitsel]

I have a Pre-64 Model 70. I am adding Talley bases and rings. Would you all use Red Loctite to secure the bases?

thanks,

Rich

Try purple locktite. It holds lightly but comes apart when you want to change something with modest turning pressure.

 

[dryhumor]

I’ve torqued a lot of fasteners to spec over the years. Dry, wet, two step, thread locker; whatever the manufacturer called for. When in doubt check with the manufacturer.

That said, if you had instructions to torque a screw to 12 inch pounds, and add threadlocker to it, even though the instructions said nothing about it; you just added variable. Sure it will hold, but likely it could require heat or chemical, or both to remove. Normal dry torque spec should release cleanly.