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Recoil pads

Can you place an Allen's rubber recoil pad over a factory pad without affecting the accuracy of a 300 win mag rifle? It reduces the recoil considerably more than just a single recoil pad. A friend thinks it may flex during a shot causing the bullet to go off-target. Your opinion is appreciated. Just to let you know, the added length didn't bother me as my arms are plenty long enough to compensate, it is a synthetic stock that handles the rubber easily.
Thank you for your replies.
 
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Probably won't affect accuracy but, If you have a nicely finished wood stock, it will ruin that. Why not add a muzzle brake? I just put a Witt Machine clamp on brake on my 300win and it reduced recoil by at least 60%. My accuracy actually improved because of the recoil reduction.
 
It's the loss of the FLINCH that takes care of the accuracy. :p :D :cool:
And a "slip on" recoil pad WILL make a big difference. If the stock finish is any good, it won't hurt a thing.
I agree with you about the flinch however, I've refinished many wood stocks that have been ruined by slip on pads. The leather ones are the worst.
 
I don’t think it would hurt accuracy.
I agree. And anything that avoids 'flinch' is a big deal. You hear folks saying they don't flinch. It's interesting to see when they squeeze the trigger on a 'non' primed round.
Of course when you are into what I call the big rounds (300 WM-Winchester or Weatherby) there is a flinch. Maybe that's why I shoot my 30BR or 222 so well.
Once (just once) I loaded and sighted in a friends 378 Weatherby. I put a bag of shot between my shoulder and the butt. Man that thing is brutal. Length of pull changed drastically but I didn't care.
 
My advise to you 30 years ago would have been to grow a pair. Now I am in my 60s and I can feel your pain. Get a real good pad made to reduce felt recoil and replace the factory pad/butt plate. If you add a slip on it may make the length of pull on the stock too long for the shooter. Muzzle brakes work well but add concussion and a lot of noise. I have brakes on some rifles and they work well but there is a big down side.
 
Can you place an Allen's rubber recoil pad over a factory pad without affecting the accuracy of a 300 win mag rifle? It reduces the recoil considerably more than just a single recoil pad. A friend thinks it may flex during a shot causing the bullet to go off-target. Your opinion is appreciated.
A Witt brake is the way to go. 60to70% reduction . Around 100 bucks shiped. Just my two cents Tommy Mc
 
I built, a RemAge, in 6 XC on a Rem 700 SS, Lefty, action W/ Criterion barrel and Glass Bedded it in, a SHORT Pull ( short from, the Factory ! ) H-S Precision, Pillar bedded, stock.
I added, a "Slip on" Limb Saver pad ( over the existing HARD Pad from, H-S ) AND, a Witt Machine, Brake ,..
Pleasurable & SWEET shooting, Rifle,.. NOW !
Accuracy ??? ,. "Bug Holes" in, the 3's with, 3 Different, Berger Bullets from, the 80, 95 and the 108 grainers and I haven't really had, the chance to "Tune', Bullet Depth, yet !
 
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Probably won't affect accuracy but, If you have a nicely finished wood stock, it will ruin that. Why not add a muzzle brake? I just put a Witt Machine clamp on brake on my 300win and it reduced recoil by at least 60%. My accuracy actually improved because of the recoil reduction.
It has a synthetic stock so it isn't unsightly.
 
I agree. And anything that avoids 'flinch' is a big deal. You hear folks saying they don't flinch. It's interesting to see when they squeeze the trigger on a 'non' primed round.
Of course when you are into what I call the big rounds (300 WM-Winchester or Weatherby) there is a flinch. Maybe that's why I shoot my 30BR or 222 so well.
Once (just once) I loaded and sighted in a friends 378 Weatherby. I put a bag of shot between my shoulder and the butt. Man that thing is brutal. Length of pull changed drastically but I didn't care.
I have seen that too. Not realizing that the spent shell was still in the rifle they pulled the trigger and the rifle wavered badly.
 
I agree. And anything that avoids 'flinch' is a big deal. You hear folks saying they don't flinch. It's interesting to see when they squeeze the trigger on a 'non' primed round.
Of course when you are into what I call the big rounds (300 WM-Winchester or Weatherby) there is a flinch. Maybe that's why I shoot my 30BR or 222 so well.
Once (just once) I loaded and sighted in a friends 378 Weatherby. I put a bag of shot between my shoulder and the butt. Man that thing is brutal. Length of pull changed drastically but I didn't care.
 

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