Rebarreling Ruger American

[rockhound78]

So, never done one of these things before. How difficult and any tips on making the job go smoothly? Thanks

 

[ncageneral]

I'd like to find a beater and see just how accurate one of them can be.

 

[jpx2rk]

Same concept as a Savage barrel nut setup. Just need a pipe wrench to get the OEM nut off, you won't be using it again, so don't waste time trying to save it. If you plan on single feeding the new caliber, the loading port is on the small size. I was able to find an accurate load at mag length, so all is good for my build.

 

[Limafoxtrot2]

The Americans have a 1" x 16TPI tenon. I do away with the barrel nut and fit the barrel utilizing a shoulder. They are very straight forward to fit and chamber. They may need a little more of a feed throat cut to aid in feeding. Just breaking the edge of the chamber mouth will not be enough.

 

[hoz53]

The Americans have a 1" x 16TPI tenon. I do away with the barrel nut and fit the barrel utilizing a shoulder. They are very straight forward to fit and chamber. They may need a little more of a feed throat cut to aid in feeding. Just breaking the edge of the chamber mouth will not be enough.

did you check protrusion of a headspace gage and set the new ones headspace to that?

 

[Limafoxtrot2]

With the bolt in lock up in the receiver and using a depth micrometer, I measure from the face of the trued receiver to the bolt nose. From this hard measurement, I subtract the amount needed for my working clearance. I am now left with the actual tenon length.

For headspace, I will measure the bolt face depth with the depth micrometer and add to that the amount that I allowed for the working clearance. This total is the theoretical protrusion of the go-gauge.

I will start chambering and once I am close to that theoretical protrusion amount, I will insert the go-gauge into the chamber, I then run the receiver with the bolt in lock up on to the tenon until the bolt face stops hard against the base of the go-gauge. I will then measure the gap between the receiver face and the barrel shoulder using a feeler gauge. I will then finish the chamber to that measured amount plus an additional .0001"-.0002".

I hope that this helps.
-L

 

[55fairlane]

I cheated...I ordered a profit short chambered barrel.......this ruger I "cheated" on will be the last ruger I own.....a trip back to ruger, an FU from ruger after it still wouldn't shoot, a new stock, and finally a new barrel....now it shoots with my Savage for hundreds more and the magazine still sucks.....

Good luck

 

[urbanrifleman]

Same as Tikka t3. I have the nuts in stock.

 

[hoz53]

With the bolt in lock up in the receiver and using a depth micrometer, I measure from the face of the trued receiver to the bolt nose. From this hard measurement, I subtract the amount needed for my working clearance. I am now left with the actual tenon length.

For headspace, I will measure the bolt face depth with the depth micrometer and add to that the amount that I allowed for the working clearance. This total is the theoretical protrusion of the go-gauge.

I will start chambering and once I am close to that theoretical protrusion amount, I will insert the go-gauge into the chamber, I then run the receiver with the bolt in lock up on to the tenon until the bolt face stops hard against the base of the go-gauge. I will then measure the gap between the receiver face and the barrel shoulder using a feeler gauge. I will then finish the chamber to that measured amount plus an additional .0001"-.0002".

I hope that this helps.
-L

that is about how i do it. thanks

 

[CJ6]

I'd like to find a beater and see just how accurate one of them can be.

Just make sure you check the feed ramp in the action. I picked up a RA in 223 in early July. It wouldn't feed from the mag and must be nearly vertical (down) to hand feed it. The cause is the feed ramp is not cut properly. It's just a small notch (sub-caliber) on the right side of the action. The rifle shoots AWESOME but it's a major pain to put a round in the chamber. I haven't decided if I'm going to send it back to Ruger (warranty) or have a local Smith fix it. If I send it to Ruger I doubt I'd get the same gun back and it shoots too good to lose it.

 

[Twdmar]

Just make sure you check the feed ramp in the action. I picked up a RA in 223 in early July. It wouldn't feed from the mag and must be nearly vertical (down) to hand feed it. The cause is the feed ramp is not cut properly. It's just a small notch (sub-caliber) on the right side of the action. The rifle shoots AWESOME but it's a major pain to put a round in the chamber. I haven't decided if I'm going to send it back to Ruger (warranty) or have a local Smith fix it. If I send it to Ruger I doubt I'd get the same gun back and it shoots too good to lose it.

I bought one that uses AR mags. Aftermarket prefits really need a feed ramp cut in for it to work. I can probably get a picture if you need one.

 

[CJ6]

I bought one that uses AR mags. Aftermarket prefits really need a feed ramp cut in for it to work. I can probably get a picture if you need one.

No that's fine.... I have one from when they first came out to go by. Thanks though.