Rebarreling a 1903A3...

[akajun]

If the extractor groove doesnt line up then the front sight key slot will not line up also . On a 1903 it was taught and common to peen barrel WHEN shims were not available. Easy enought to make shims which is the preferred way .
On any other barrel install with out front sight key slot cut already, I would recut slot . Ive done many dozen 1903 and A3 , and Enfields , not all lined up .
It was easy when you had a case of barrels to try ( 1903 A3)

Correct, I have a copy of the Amu manual in 03’s somewhere where peening and or shimming is instructed. I’ve even seen packs of breaching washers with a gov part #

 

[jackieschmidt]

Sure miss that for dead center lubricant! Thanks EPA for protecting me from myself (said with tongue in cheek).

Yeh, in my younger years, white Lead was the thing to use on on dead jaw steady rests and dead centers.
And if you were pressing parts together, installing body fit bolts, or installing large propeller nuts, white lead was always the choice to keep parts from Galling.

When we finally got live centers and rollers on steady rest, it was akin to the first cavemen harnessing fire.

As fancy as they are, todays anti-seize compounds would take a back seat to white lead.

It was truly great stuff…….once you got past that “it will probably kill you” thing.

 

[akajun]

Yeh, in my younger years, white Lead was the thing to use on on dead jaw steady rests and dead centers.
And if you were pressing parts together, installing body fit bolts, or installing large propeller nuts, white lead was always the choice to keep parts from Galling.

When we finally got live centers and rollers on steady rest, it was akin to the first cavemen harnessing fire.

As fancy as they are, todays anti-seize compounds would take a back seat to white lead.

It was truly great stuff…….once you got past that “it will probably kill you” thing.

There’s some things I still use a dead center for
Fyi white leads still availible at better art supply stores as paint. You cut it with linseed oil. The few times I’ve used it I just wear gloves and don’t spin too fast

 

[DR_2297]

To D&T these I just plunge with a 1/8” carbide endmill. 6-48 tap drill is like .120. What’s .005 amongst friends. Tap immediately after making the hole using a spring loaded tap guide in the quill. Moly Dee for lube. Don’t force it. Turn until it doesn’t want to go then back up to break the chip and repeat. Plan to toss the tap after 1 receiver is done.

 

[Fire Dog]

To D&T these I just plunge with a 1/8” carbide endmill. 6-48 tap drill is like .120. What’s .005 amongst friends. Tap immediately after making the hole using a spring loaded tap guide in the quill. Moly Dee for lube. Don’t force it. Turn until it doesn’t want to go then back up to break the chip and repeat. Plan to toss the tap after 1 receiver is done.

A friend of mine that used to work in the Arospace industry told me that years ago they used to use Carbon Tetra Chloride as a lubricant for tapping really difficult {read tempered} material and it worked where nothing else would though when the job was finished the tap was ruined.
They never broke a tap and it was only used in special cases where the risk was high of destroying a part if the tap broke off or they just could not find any other way to tap the hole due to the hardness of the material.
Here is a link where it’s use is discussed, available up to the 70’s it is still hoarded by some as an additive to cutting compounds but used with extreme care…!
Reported to have been the “secret” ingredient of the original Tap Magic.

Carbon tetrachloride

OK. I done some more reading on carbon tet and I am now in full agreement with those who recommended I get rid of it. It is nasty stuff! I did however want to try it for machining. I donned nitrile gloves, a face mask and breathed through my scuba regulator (so like Clinton, I didn't...

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[9146gt]

A friend of mine that used to work in the Arospace industry told me that years ago they used to use Carbon Tetra Chloride as a lubricant for tapping really difficult {read tempered} material and it worked where nothing else would though when the job was finished the tap was ruined.
They never broke a tap and it was only used in special cases where the risk was high of destroying a part if the tap broke off or they just could not find any other way to tap the hole due to the hardness of the material.
Here is a link where it’s use is discussed, available up to the 70’s it is still hoarded by some as an additive to cutting compounds but used with extreme care…!
Reported to have been the “secret” ingredient of the original Tap Magic.

Carbon tetrachloride

OK. I done some more reading on carbon tet and I am now in full agreement with those who recommended I get rid of it. It is nasty stuff! I did however want to try it for machining. I donned nitrile gloves, a face mask and breathed through my scuba regulator (so like Clinton, I didn't...

www.hobby-machinist.com

A race car supplier of CV joints in the 80's had 55 gallon barrels of Carbon Tet for tooling lube.
Tom