Rebarrel question

[El Sancho]

Gentlemen,

A friend of mine yesterday re-barreled a rifle from a 243 to a 308 for the first time. After he had completed it we tested it with a go gauge with pieces of scotch tape. Well, 3 pieces of tape was loose while closing the bolt, while 4 pieces were tight (Firing pin removed). If I'm correct that would be approx .007" (Safe/Not Safe). Plus, we checked too see if he could contact the rifling without success (How do you correct this?). Any feedback would be greatly appreciated and forward to my friend.
Thxs
Respectfully
Manny Sanchez

 

[Eddie Harren]

Too much headspace! Set back and rechamber.
Length of freebore is determined by the reamer. The freebore can be increased (with a throater) but not decreased (without using a different reamer).

 

[fullersson]

Manny, You need to get a no go gage also. All that tape stuff isn't as reliable as a no go gage. Forster go gage is 1.630/ Forster no go gage is 1.634. That is a difference of .004 meaning that your .007 would be out of specs and be considered not safe. Excessive headspace can lead to case failure causing damage to the shooter and gun. To fix this first off order a no go gage. To fix the headspace problem you have to set the shoulder back a little bit. According to your measurements I would start by setting the shoulder back .003 and see how that works, be sure to check and make sure the bolt will close without the gages in the chamber. If it will close then insert the go and then the no go gage to see if you have set the shoulder back far enough. If the bolt will not close then you have to take some length off the tenion. If you set the shoulder back too much and the go gage won't go then you have to ream the chamber deeper. DocEd is on the money with the freebore. The only thing you might could do is (depending on you twist rate) is try using longer bullets or get another reamer with less freebore. Good luck, Brian.

 

[twoodard]

sounds to me like a savage project? if so get the no go and reset the barrel

 

[terryb]

if this is a rem. a cheaper safe fix is to grind off the flat side( i do the barrel side )recoil lug making sure you keep it square,trial and error,mark,unscrew,grind ,screw barrel back in, till you get the headspce correct,probably going to need to take off several thousands,but be sure you don't get the bolt face contacting the back of the barrel,if i use tape,i set mine where the bolt barely starts to close on one piece of tape and factory unfired brass chambers easy.know this isn't gunsmith approved,or benchrest quality,but have swaped many barrels,and no problems.

 

[El Sancho]

Thxs Gentlemen,

I'll print these response's and give them to him hopefully he'll make a good sound decision toward his project. If, my choice I would have sent it too someone whom has the knowledge and skill to complete this task safely.
Thxs
Again Respectfully
Manny Sanchez

 

[Larryh128]

You really need to mic a piece of the tape. Cheap tape may only go 1/2 thou & good tape .002. I check my go guage all the time with a piece of tape BUT I know what I'm adding.

 

[JohnMill]

Hey Manny,
Don't get too excited about mistakes. Everyone made a bunch of scrap to begin with. With a good instructor a little less. It is better however to do a couple of used barrels first. Then if you don't do any for 6 mos. or a year then do the used barrel route again. Saves a lot of grief. Guess how I know all that!
John

 

[JohnMill]

Oh yeah DocEd's advice is spot on. You have to do that. You can try ootching it back but that is 4 or 5 cuts and each only the few thou so how likely is that to go perfect. Just cut it off. If you are going to do this a lot get the Micrometer reamer stop from PT&G ( it's designed by Rusty Stud[forum member]) and you can get instruction on you tube from TheViper6506. It's good for folks that are not doing this enough to develop the touch
Hope this helps.

John

 

[jscandale]

Manny,

.007" is too much headspace for sure, but luckily, this is a problem that is easily fixable. Assuming that your friend did all of the fitting and threading of the barrel tenon to the action, just take .005" off the shoulder and the exact same amount off of the length of the threaded tenon. If it's a Remington, you'll probably have to also take the same amount off the bolt ace counter bore as well. If it's a coned bolt face, then refit the cone to the action with the bolt installed.

Good luck,

JS

 

[Rustystud]

1. I would suggest you get someone to mentor you who knows what they are doing.

2. I would also suggest you use a set of the same manufactures (steel) Go and No Go Gauges.

I have chambered/headspaced thousands of barrels without insident because I do it the SAAMI way.

Nat Lambeth

 

[shortgrass]

1. I would suggest you get someone to mentor you who knows what they are doing.

2. I would also suggest you use a set of the same manufactures (steel) Go and No Go Gauges.

I have chambered/headspaced thousands of barrels without insident because I do it the SAAMI way.

Nat Lambeth

A++++ to that! Barrel installation, chambering and headspacing shouldn't be done on the 'cheap' or without the proper skills, knowledge, and tools (like gages!). Wait to get 'fancy' 'till you've done 20 or 30, and then, still stick that 'no-go' gage in, just for safetys sake. I doubt 'tape' would stand up in court. Being able to use and read a depth mic, in conjunction with headspace gages, will take you much further in the long run.