Rear Entry Action Wrench Use

[Dusty Stevens]

What problems do you run into when the base rail is left on?

He cant use his wraparound action wrench

 

[Richard Jones]

The big Action Wrench #2 hits it.

What about this? I may not even need the rear entry wrench......

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Cant see why that wont work as long as it doesnt twist and shear the screws off

 

[Richard Jones]

I'll crank on it pretty good and use the magic drywall tape.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[DirtySteve]

I'll crank on it pretty good and use the magic drywall tape.

Thanks for all your help.

I would think, and I try not to very often because I am usually wrong. If you really crank down on the vise you may slightly distort the action making it difficult to screw the barrel on. I think I have this issue once while trying to get a factory barrel off once. I may have squeezed the action tighter to the barrel.

 

[LVLAaron]

I would think, and I try not to very often because I am usually wrong. If you really crank down on the vise you may slightly distort the action making it difficult to screw the barrel on. I think I have this issue once while trying to get a factory barrel off once. I may have squeezed the action tighter to the barrel.

Not hard to do. Steel is a lot softer than it gets credit for.

 

[Curmudgeon]

I use hardwood blocks for the barrel and slide the savage barrel nut wrench onto the barrel before I clamp the barrel into the blocks. I use a one piece picatinny rail with the crown end of the rail trimmed flush with the threads. I use an action wrench for savages and Remingtons, same wrench, at bolt end. I recently got a barrel nut that is cut so I can use a big crescent wrench instead of a savage wrench. This method does need a heavy bench vise for the blocks, this method works well for me. I use 55 ft pounds to install a barrel. If one goes from a factory installed barrel to a barrel nut first disassembly is difficult. A barrel does not need that much torque to reassemble. I use barrel nuts for a few varmint barrels because of different twists but others are barrels cut to the action. Barrel nuts become easier as your process is refined. I did need help with a Remington barrel
I would swear was welded to the action. The threads were filled with a black tar that smelled like asphalt. It took longer to clean that gunk out of the threads than it did to install new barrel. After you figure out what works for you it’s just another part of the process to get to the range or field. It’s all part of the way we enjoy our sport. Cheers

 

[Richard Jones]

@LVLAaron & @DirtySteve Understood, was a bit tongue in cheek. No more pressure than is necessary is a good rule. As stated previously, it doesn't take a lot of torque so no need for any gorilla antics. And the drywall tape really helps.

Thanks.

 

[Richard Jones]

@Curmudgeon

That sounds like what I had planned, although I am not sure I even need the rear entry wrench now, with the new blocks that I made. I'll compare the 2 'methods' when I get the new wrench. Thanks.

 

[Roeder]

What problems do you run into when the base rail is left on?

The most important detail to remember is to be absolutely positive that the front scope base screws are short enough to clear the crest of the barrel threads. Typical screws are often just long enough to barely touch the threads.

 

[Richard Jones]

OK, nice pretty Bugholes rear entry action wrench in hand. I think I'm going to like this way.