"reading" my targets

[stroked96s10]

I'll start off by saying I'm relatively new to this. I got into rifles last year after talking with a co worker (used to shoot 1000 yard competitions) and realized I liked them much more than pistols. So I bought a 300 Win mag, Remington 700. I bought a Rock Chucker Press and the other basics. Forster bump die and Wilson seater. I made it to the range several times, using IMR4831 I got down to a 5/8" 3 shot group. But, I sent it in for the recall (which I regret now). So back in January, I spoke with the smith who built my co workers gun, $1000 down and 8 months later I'm waiting for my 6x47 Lapua to be finished. Pretty excited for that. I told him I'd paint the stock (which will now be done at a local paint shop instead) so I bought a guinea pig to paint; a Ruger American in .308. Cheapie barska excavator scope to go with it. I painted whole gun and it turned out decent IMO, can post pics later. But ended up buying another bump die and Wilson seater for it. Just got back from round three at the range. I got same results as day two, just firing in different orders since barrel was getting hot fast. I have a load of Varget and a load H4895, that both times, shot 3 touching each other, and 2 about 1.5-2" to the right of them. So 4 times, I got similar results from 2 loads. Is that most likely me pulling/moving or just the way those loads are shooting? I know a ruger American isn't designed for precision, and I'm just doing this for practice for my 6mm, but it bugs me.
Loads,
Varget 45.5 grains, Federal LR primer, PMC bonze case sized with .334 bushing and die backed off not quite 1/4 turn. Sierra spritzer boat tail 150 grain 2.825" OAL. Other load is identical except with 43.5 grains H4895.

Any suggestions / advice / criticism is welcomed. Ive been reading through the site for the last few months, just trying to put what I've retained to use, but at the moment, I'm wondering if I'm going in circles.
Thanks, Tyler.

 

[jonbearman]

I think one thing you could do is make sure the scope mounts are tight and the scope should be changed to a known good scope to be sure that isn't the problem.What are you shooting off of such as a solid rest or sand bags or whatever.

 

[LHSmith]

What distance are you shooting? For a sporter weight barrel I would base it's accuracy potential on 3-shot groups. IMHO, your wasting time, barrel life, and components trying to get respectable 5-shot groups and never learning anything attempting to do so. One tip I can offer is to dry patch at least (or better yet clean the bore) when changing powders, and also note where cold bore and clean bore shots tend to impact in the group.

 

[stroked96s10]

The barska scope died before I even got to Try hand loads. 70 shots of junk 147 ammo killed it. Reticle was rotating left. It now has a cabelas 4-16x52 30mm tube on it. Im shooting off the basic caldwell front rest and rear bag. I clean it after every trip to the range. I have some 165 grain bthp laying around I might try. As well as 4064.

 

[I_shoot_for_fun]

While I don't know who makes the scope for Cabela's, don't allow your glass choice to be the weak link in your target shooting. I'm sure you've read it before, but good glass allows all your other choice in guns, loads, brass to become evident.

When I started shooting many years ago, there always seemed to be money and time to replace scopes. Seemed like each new gun got a basic scope so I could go shoot.

Now, I'm more of the "buy once, cry once" theory. Good glass is an investment that is well worth it. You can move it from gun to gun, too.

Welcome to the rifle shooting world. I hope you enjoy it as much as I have.

 

[Erik Cortina]

In my opinion, you are "practicing" drag racing with a Smart car. It was probably not the best decision for you first custom rifle to be a wildcat either that will require necking down and turning brass, but I'm sure it's too late now.

 

[timeout]

I can relate to your learning curve. I spent years with factory rifles before experiencing what a custom rifle could do. I initially had a Remington 788 with a Leupold scope that I managed to blindly find a load for that shot extremely well. I wound up selling it for fail to fires that two gunsmiths could not fix. Decades later, I am convinced the "fix" would have been for me not to have shoved the shoulder back too far when FL resizing. I went through several factory rifles and every bullet/powder combo sold, only to be completely frustrated by poor target results. I have wasted a ton of money on components over the years. Enter Accurate Shooter and a 6BR rifle. What a difference some knowledge and a good rifle can make! I am by no means a Hall of Fame Shooter, but I can tune a load and shoot some decent groups now. The guys are "right on target" with their advice to purchase a good scope also. You probably don't need a March at this point, but at least a quality Leupy. My advice would be to forget trying to tune the Factory rifle. Save your money for a quality scope to put on the 6X47 when it is complete. Everyone has their own method of tuning. Mine is to pick a powder/bullet combo that is working for a high percentage of shooters in that particular caliber. Next, do a ladder test at 300 yards to choose a powder charge weight. Finally, experiment with the bullet seating depth while shooting groups at 100 yards. This should provide a competitive load to shoot. From that point there are any number of things you can try to improve even more. Just keep in mind that none of the load testing work will be meaningful if you do not have proper rifle rest equipment, good shooting form/technique, and are paying attention to the wind.

 

[glockaholic]

Hi Tyler,
My best advise is keep practicing and shoot often. I bought a used 6SLR because they don't sell ammo for it at the store. It forced me to get better at reloading. I reload for 308 also and am getting better. When shooting F-TR (bipod), you will be surprised at how important recoil management is. I makes a big difference group size. Even the best ammo will shoot poorly if you don't control breathing, trigger pull and recoil. Hold the trigger back after each shot. Very small movements at the rifle mean bigger movements at the target.

I use the K+M neck turning tool and like it. It helps a lot with consistent reloads. Measure the velocity of all your group shooting and only use 5 shot groups. You will see the velocity (fps) get closer as you master the reloading. Extreme Spread should be less than 12 for 5 shots, many prefer single digit ES.

Today I shot me first sub-0.2 MOA. It was right under, at .191 MOA at 300 yards. This was using my reload, 308 Federal brass and 43gr of RL15 with 178gr AMAX. Keep practicing and your reloading will get better. Keep shooting and your trigger skills with improve also. A spread up and down is usually breathing. A spread left to right is either trigger or recoil management.

....Carl

I'll start off by saying I'm relatively new to this. ..........

Any suggestions / advice / criticism is welcomed. Ive been reading through the site for the last few months, just trying to put what I've retained to use, but at the moment, I'm wondering if I'm going in circles.
Thanks, Tyler.

 

[stroked96s10]

. My advice would be to forget trying to tune the Factory rifle. Save your money for a quality scope to put on the 6X47 when it is complete. Everyone has their own method of tuning. Mine is to pick a powder/bullet combo that is working for a high percentage of shooters in that particular caliber. Next, do a ladder test at 300 yards to choose a powder charge weight. Finally, experiment with the bullet seating depth while shooting groups at 100 yards. This should provide a competitive load to shoot. From that point there are any number of things you can try to improve even more. Just keep in mind that none of the load testing work will be meaningful if you do not have proper rifle rest equipment, good shooting form/technique, and are paying attention to the wind.

The 6x47 will be a BAT action, .267 neck (I believe he said), a nightforce 12-42x56 scope on top, 28" kreiger barrel and 2 oz trigger. I set up a savings account back in January so when I get the call (based off his estimate finish date) I'll drive over and hand him the cash in return for a gun I could drive straight to the range with. He's making all the dies for it as well. I'm using the 308 and 300, and real soon 223 as my practice to get familiar with bench shooing and loading. I've learned a lot in the past few months but still feel I have a long ways to go til I'm trying for a 1000 yard shots. Local range goes out to 600 and a few hours is the 1000 yard.

I appreciate the feedback from everybody and will be playing with he 308 just a little bit more until I get my 223 ready to go, savage 12FV. As of now, for a hunting gun, the 30 cals are ready to go IMO at least.

 

[stroked96s10]

Hi Tyler,
My best advise is keep practicing and shoot often. I bought a used 6SLR because they don't sell ammo for it at the store. It forced me to get better at reloading. I reload for 308 also and am getting better. When shooting F-TR (bipod), you will be surprised at how important recoil management is. I makes a big difference group size. Even the best ammo will shoot poorly if you don't control breathing, trigger pull and recoil. Hold the trigger back after each shot. Very small movements at the rifle mean bigger movements at the target.

I use the K+M neck turning tool and like it. It helps a lot with consistent reloads. Measure the velocity of all your group shooting and only use 5 shot groups. You will see the velocity (fps) get closer as you master the reloading. Extreme Spread should be less than 12 for 5 shots, many prefer single digit ES.

Today I shot me first sub-0.2 MOA. It was right under, at .191 MOA at 300 yards. This was using my reload, 308 Federal brass and 43gr of RL15 with 178gr AMAX. Keep practicing and your reloading will get better. Keep shooting and your trigger skills with improve also. A spread up and down is usually breathing. A spread left to right is either trigger or recoil management.

....Carl

I plan to buy all K&M tools for the 6x47, but using the "basics" on my current rifles. The regular OD deburring tool and the VLD ID deburring tool, primer pocket and flash hole tools etc. I do know I need to work on recoil. I know the 308 isn't much but I know I'm still moving. I tend to get in a hurry because of limited time (work/kids). I need a day that I can spend taking as much time as I need to calm myself down and see what I can do with the proper time.