Re-turning brass?
- Thread starter thefitter
- Start date
If you're careful to take a light cut into the shoulder when you turn necks the brass flow issue is resolved.
Depending on the particular cartridge / bullet combination any latent "donut" issues might be also.
Awhile back I thought I was getting more "lasting" results when I turned brass once after the first firing then again to a final desired neck thickness after a couple more.
Not sure it matters much though; scores with once-turned haven't changed & brass seems to last just as long. Maybe for BR it's worth it but for score (sling) shooting it just might be a waste of time.
Depending on the particular cartridge / bullet combination any latent "donut" issues might be also.
Awhile back I thought I was getting more "lasting" results when I turned brass once after the first firing then again to a final desired neck thickness after a couple more.
Not sure it matters much though; scores with once-turned haven't changed & brass seems to last just as long. Maybe for BR it's worth it but for score (sling) shooting it just might be a waste of time.
He didnt mean it that way.Reread it.
hmm.. im just getting into long range shooting i was thinking you had to turn your necks every time to be consistent even if it barely cuts or dosent cut etc.. I hope im wrong. Buying a neck turning apparatus soon and this will have a large factor on what type i get.
taging post to follow.
taging post to follow.
It is hypothetical that if you shoot very hot loads, your primer pockets could be gone, for example, before your necks need to be re-turned. On the otherhand, with "milder" loads as I often shoot in my 6PPC, with a slight cut into the neck each time for doughnut control and to even out the full neck, I routinely re-turn my necks every 8 or so firings - as I will usually do around 25 loadings on a set before retiring them. That will give me two tune-ups after the initial turning. On these "tune-up" turnings, very little material will come off. While not much, the brass flows forward even when headspace is right-on perfect. When flowing forward, it does not flow forward uniformly - thus the "tune-up". Some may believe it is not needed. It probably isn't to shoot well. Because I want no known inconsistences in my brass - I do it because I know the incontistencies are there - however minor. Personally, I think it is worth it. After every firing - no way. Don't even know anyone who does.
On another thought line - if you go through load development with this set of brass and shoot some hot loads while testing the outer limits and some starter loads - your brass is now no longer as consistent as it once was. Some brass was barely worked and some was over-worked. When done doing load development with a set of brass, I always anneal it and then do a neck turning touch-up just to get the batch back to being a bit more consistent as it was prior to load develpment.
On another thought line - if you go through load development with this set of brass and shoot some hot loads while testing the outer limits and some starter loads - your brass is now no longer as consistent as it once was. Some brass was barely worked and some was over-worked. When done doing load development with a set of brass, I always anneal it and then do a neck turning touch-up just to get the batch back to being a bit more consistent as it was prior to load develpment.
Greyfox said:
I added the (sling) part to direct my comment to the style of long range shooting I prefer, off a mat with a sling (and more often than not "iron" or match sights) out to 1,000 yards.
Each discipline, whether BR, F-Class, sling, silhouette, etc., is as demanding as the others when it comes to reliable, repeatable maximum accuracy. The demands themselves differ greatly though by virtue of the ways accuracy is measured down-range.
I greatly respect the ability to shoot a four-inch group at 1,000 yards! That I'm willing to accept reliable accuracy that's capable of putting 15 rounds into a 10" group (I wish! 20" inch more likely & on a GOOD day) by no means diminishes that.
I added the (sling) part to direct my comment to the style of long range shooting I prefer, off a mat with a sling (and more often than not "iron" or match sights) out to 1,000 yards.
Each discipline, whether BR, F-Class, sling, silhouette, etc., is as demanding as the others when it comes to reliable, repeatable maximum accuracy. The demands themselves differ greatly though by virtue of the ways accuracy is measured down-range.
I greatly respect the ability to shoot a four-inch group at 1,000 yards! That I'm willing to accept reliable accuracy that's capable of putting 15 rounds into a 10" group (I wish! 20" inch more likely & on a GOOD day) by no means diminishes that.
[/quote]
I offer my apologies. Please forgive my misunderstanding. More than once I have been in the company of some who seem to think their chosen discipline is somehow superior to everybody else's. I'm glad this wasn't the case here.
Good shooting to you,
Rick
Each discipline, whether BR, F-Class, sling, silhouette, etc., is as demanding as the others when it comes to reliable, repeatable maximum accuracy. The demands themselves differ greatly though by virtue of the ways accuracy is measured down-range.
I greatly respect the ability to shoot a four-inch group at 1,000 yards! That I'm willing to accept reliable accuracy that's capable of putting 15 rounds into a 10" group (I wish! 20" inch more likely & on a GOOD day) by no means diminishes that.
[/quote]
I offer my apologies. Please forgive my misunderstanding. More than once I have been in the company of some who seem to think their chosen discipline is somehow superior to everybody else's. I'm glad this wasn't the case here.
Good shooting to you,
Rick
I always dedicate a K&M neck turner for each barrel. The neck thickness I choose is marked on the turner. I always know what it should be. Then, I occasionally check neck thickness with the Mitutoyo ball mic. When I find inconsistencies, I will re-turn brass. But, beware: with a turner reading to .0001", very slight reductions will result in much larger cutting of the brass. Go down .0001" at a time, and re-check.
I do the same thing as Tenring, except that I have more than one brand of tool. I just got tired of ruining cases trying to readjust the tool. Using junk cases for setup is another idea that I have tried, but having a tool already adjusted and ready to go is nice.
I have a couple of the little Foresters, and a few Sinclair 3000's. I think the main difference between the expensive tools and the cheaper tools is mostly in the ease of adjustment. I'll probably try a PMA tool next time that I need one. Lightman
I have a couple of the little Foresters, and a few Sinclair 3000's. I think the main difference between the expensive tools and the cheaper tools is mostly in the ease of adjustment. I'll probably try a PMA tool next time that I need one. Lightman
Tim Singleton
Gold $$ Contributor
I posted a similar question over on benchrestcentral. My 6ppc is about to wear me out.
I realized after quite a few firings and having to trim to length at least every other firing. That my loaded rounds were not a consistent over all dimension. They ranged from ..2595 all the way up to .261
They began life at .259. I shoot a .262 neck ppc
The post may be of some value to you guys.
http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?87172-6ppc-neck-clearance/page2
When I had heard the phrase brass flow. I thought that meant when fired. I was corrected.
As it turns out I believe I have been over sizing my brass creating my problems with my neck thickness and excessive trimming.
If this be the case then a load being hotter than another really has nothing to do with your brass growing and needing to be trimmed.
I realized after quite a few firings and having to trim to length at least every other firing. That my loaded rounds were not a consistent over all dimension. They ranged from ..2595 all the way up to .261
They began life at .259. I shoot a .262 neck ppc
The post may be of some value to you guys.
http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?87172-6ppc-neck-clearance/page2
When I had heard the phrase brass flow. I thought that meant when fired. I was corrected.
As it turns out I believe I have been over sizing my brass creating my problems with my neck thickness and excessive trimming.
If this be the case then a load being hotter than another really has nothing to do with your brass growing and needing to be trimmed.
DeltaBravo
Gold $$ Contributor
I just re-turned my 6BR Lapua brass after 8 firings, without any annealing. I was experiencing some minor difficulty closing the bolt on many of them. So I did the whole magilla - Full Length sized with a .266 bushing, trimmed to 1.55 length, then neck turned on my PMA. I got a LOT of material off in the do-nut area and a minor skim on the necks.
Dennis
Dennis
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