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Neck tension

How do you know which bullet is the flier at 600 yards during a record string ? Are you having a partner spot for you?
At this point in time, I don’t know which one was the flyer, and I think that is true for most shooters I talk to. For one match, I colored bullets with 5 different mj markers, but the colors didn’t show up on the target. Later I learned about the dabbing with alcohol trick.

I DQed in a 1,000yd LG relay with 4 on. The condition changed drastically right after I chambered a round. Instead of ejecting it, I left it in until the condition settled, it cooked and was off the paper. A mental error. My shooting mentor was kind enough to point this out to Me LOL.
 
Neck tension is kind of a black art, in involves deminision, friction, neck thickness, and brass properties. For example two pieces of identical brass, one SS pin cleaned and the other not cleaned will have different tension with the same neck diameter. So as previously mentioned test your methods and find what works for your procedure.
 
At this point in time, I don’t know which one was the flyer, and I think that is true for most shooters I talk to. For one match, I colored bullets with 5 different mj markers, but the colors didn’t show up on the target. Later I learned about the dabbing with alcohol trick.

I DQed in a 1,000yd LG relay with 4 on. The condition changed drastically right after I chambered a round. Instead of ejecting it, I left it in until the condition settled, it cooked and was off the paper. A mental error. My shooting mentor was kind enough to point this out to Me LOL.
I shoot LG and HG (10 shots) and have not once cooked a round enough to DQ.

Perhaps your round didn't cook at all rather the conditions continued down range and sent your round wild.
 
Neck tension is kind of a black art, in involves deminision, friction, neck thickness, and brass properties. For example two pieces of identical brass, one SS pin cleaned and the other not cleaned will have different tension with the same neck diameter. So as previously mentioned test your methods and find what works for your procedure.
I have a couple batches of brass turned and tuned for my LR BR, It took a bit of testing to get the bullet hold right enough to not tell the difference between the two batches on paper at 1 k. Recently batch #1 had been getting a few clickers that need attention so I have a back up die that reduces the .200 datum another thousandth so we will see if that helps.
 
I shoot LG and HG (10 shots) and have not once cooked a round enough to DQ.

Perhaps your round didn't cook at all rather the conditions continued down range and sent your round wild.
You are probably right on. The conditions that day were BRUTAL, and totally unpredictable. Better and more experienced shooters/loaders than Me DQed that day.
 
At this point in time, I don’t know which one was the flyer, and I think that is true for most shooters I talk to. For one match, I colored bullets with 5 different mj markers, but the colors didn’t show up on the target. Later I learned about the dabbing with alcohol trick.

I DQed in a 1,000yd LG relay with 4 on. The condition changed drastically right after I chambered a round. Instead of ejecting it, I left it in until the condition settled, it cooked and was off the paper. A mental error. My shooting mentor was kind enough to point this out to Me LOL.
I think you need a new mentor. There is NO WAY you could “cook” a round enough to cause it to rise enough off the target. I’ve shot many 1000 yard competitions and I’ve been known to leave a round in the chamber for as long as 3-4 minutes while waiting for the right wind. And that next shot is always a 10 or an X.
Dave
 
Neck tension is kind of a black art, in involves deminision, friction, neck thickness, and brass properties. For example two pieces of identical brass, one SS pin cleaned and the other not cleaned will have different tension with the same neck diameter. So as previously mentioned test your methods and find what works for your procedure.
I don’t know of a single winning 1000 yard F class shooter that cleans their brass with SS pins. You want to leave that carbon buildup on the inside of the neck. The pins take it off.
dave
 
I have found as long as your neck tensions is "Consistent" to be most important.
but usually no more than .003"
That also is dependent upon how far your bullet is seated in the neck.
IE: you may only have .002" neck tension but this is not the same amount of tension to overcome for full bullet release if it is seated .220" into a case compared another load that might be .100" deep into a case.
The load seated less only .100" into a case may like .003" neck tension better than .002"
Some of my bullets VLD's are only seated .070" deep with .002" neck tension. But are jammed into the lands.
So there are many variables to weed out as many have said....."For your particular rifle"
....until each variable becomes a known constant.
But to make it easy as a starting point with annealed brass that has been turned...I'd go with .003"
 
I don’t know of a single winning 1000 yard F class shooter that cleans their brass with SS pins. You want to leave that carbon buildup on the inside of the neck. The pins take it off.
dave
David's done well tumbling with SS pins.

David's reloading room:


 
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^^^^^^^
AMEM Brother!…..
Wayne
People put too much time and effort into making their brass shiny. It has ZERO positive effects on accuracy. My keys after firing brass are as follows:
1. Anneal after every firing
2. Full length size with bushing
3. Crushed walnut shell tumble for 1HR max
4. Trim to length (every other firing)
5. Minimal inside and outside neck chamfer
6. Deprime
7. Blow out with mild compressor air
8. Reprime by hand
9. Powder charge
10. Seat Bullets using LE Wilson seater, K&M Arbor press, and monitor press in force for anomalies
 
David's done well tumbling with SS pins.

David's reloading room:


David, also treats the necks with graphite and uses Bullets coated with HBN.
Dave
 
People put too much time and effort into making their brass shiny. It has ZERO positive effects on accuracy. My keys after firing brass are as follows:
1. Anneal after every firing
2. Full length size with bushing
3. Crushed walnut shell tumble for 1HR max
4. Trim to length (every other firing)
5. Minimal inside and outside neck chamfer
6. Deprime
7. Blow out with mild compressor air
8. Reprime by hand
9. Powder charge
10. Seat Bullets using LE Wilson seater, K&M Arbor press, and monitor press in force for anomalies
Dave,
Our regime is almost identical!…. I cringe every time I see a post where someone is ultrasonic cleaning or ss pins!…. Shiny brass don’t win matches!… load development and case prep!
Wayne
 

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