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Re Sizing cases 308 lapua vs starline

Hi All,

Just checking what others observe....

I had purchased a bunch of lapua brass in 308, also some starline, to compare things.
I already had a bunch of lake city cases too...

I use a two pass technique...one with a LEE die, then a pass with an RCBS full length die.

I found that with the starline brass, resizing goes pretty smoothly, and not too much force required.

The lapua on the other hand seems to need a lot more force.

I am using a Redding Big Boss 2 press.

The two pass came about, since if I tried the lapua right off the bat, it seems to really take a lot of force...was worried about it getting stuck in the die!

Yes, I use rcbs casing grease on the pad, and also dip the neck in graphite powder...then press.

No problems if I use lapua cases in 6.5 creedmoore...but 308 lapua are tougher...kind of expected since they are supposed to last much longer, more consistant.

Any words of wisdom?
Thanks.
 
Hi All,

Just checking what others observe....

I had purchased a bunch of lapua brass in 308, also some starline, to compare things.
I already had a bunch of lake city cases too...

I use a two pass technique...one with a LEE die, then a pass with an RCBS full length die.

I found that with the starline brass, resizing goes pretty smoothly, and not too much force required.

The lapua on the other hand seems to need a lot more force.

I am using a Redding Big Boss 2 press.

The two pass came about, since if I tried the lapua right off the bat, it seems to really take a lot of force...was worried about it getting stuck in the die!

Yes, I use rcbs casing grease on the pad, and also dip the neck in graphite powder...then press.

No problems if I use lapua cases in 6.5 creedmoore...but 308 lapua are tougher...kind of expected since they are supposed to last much longer, more consistant.

Any words of wisdom?
Thanks.
First off, I'd like to recommend trying some Mink Oil (Boot grease)
It will greatly reduce the effort of re-sizing
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I experienced the same thing you did with Lake City 308 Brass
Tough stuff too
Very often man cannot duplicate what Nature has already created
Whale Oil is a perfect example of this
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
According to Wild Bill here, Mink Oil has greater Cohesive properties
Meaning - The molecules of Mink Oil can be squeezed into a smaller tighter space and still stay in tact before breaking down. Once a lubricant breaks down due to being squeezed too thin
it is no longer a lubricant and is why we get stuck cases.
I have tried a couple different brands of Mink Oil and the one pictures is the brand I found works best
Has the best consistency of the paste
It can also be thinned down with Coleman fuel to be applied to your Lube Pad if you dont wish to dip your finger
Worth it for less than 10 bucks at Walmart.
Mink Oil works at least twice as well as Imperial for cases that feel tight in the die.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also if you use a nylon bore brush and roll it in the Mink Oil
(this doesn't take much, you're not trying to build up globs into the brush, just a surface film)
then swipe it inside the case necks will alleviate expander ball issues



1757195400142.png
 
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First off, I'd like to recommend trying some Mink Oil (Boot grease)
It will great reduce the effort of sizing
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I experienced the same thing you did with Lake City 308 Brass
Tough stuff too
Very often man cannot duplicate what Nature has already created
Whale Oil is a perfect example of this
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
According to Wild Bill here, Mink Oil has greater Cohesive properties
Meaning - The molecules of Mink Oil can be squeezed into a smaller tighter space and still stay in tact before breaking down. Once a lubricant breaks down due to being squeezed too thin
it is no longer a lubricant and is why we get stuck cases.
I have tried a couple different brands of Mink Oil and the one pictures is the brand I found works best
Has the best consistency of the paste
It can also be thinned down with Coleman fuel to be applied to your Lube Pad if you dont wish to dip your finger
Worth it for less than 10 bucks at Walmart.
Mink Oil works at least twice as well as Imperial for cases that feel tight in the die.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also if you use a nylon bore brush and roll it in the Mink Oil
(this doesn't take much, you're not trying to build up globs into the brush, just a surface film)
then swipe it inside the case necks will alleviate expander ball issues



View attachment 1692671

Well just ordered some and will give it a try! It will interesting to see the difference...Yes the lake city was also tough in 308 and was where I started trying a two step sizing. Thanks!
 
Yes, I use rcbs casing grease on the pad, and also dip the neck in graphite powder...then press.
Have you tried just graphite powder mixed in with the smallest lead shot you can find ?
Plunge the case into it and full size.
It takes a few times to get the die fully lubed with graphite ...........
 
Have you tried just graphite powder mixed in with the smallest lead shot you can find ?
Plunge the case into it and full size.
It takes a few times to get the die fully lubed with graphite ...........
Well that can another thing to try! I only used the graphite on the necks, thx
 
Well that can another thing to try! I only used the graphite on the necks, thx
By the way, the mink oil comes off just as easily in the tumbler as any other lube
I use Walnut predominantly.
I prescreen my walnut below 12-16 mesh so it doesnt get stuck in the flash holes.
If you're in a rush use Coleman fuel on a rag and wipe it off
 
Hi All,

Just checking what others observe....

I had purchased a bunch of lapua brass in 308, also some starline, to compare things.
I already had a bunch of lake city cases too...

I use a two pass technique...one with a LEE die, then a pass with an RCBS full length die.

I found that with the starline brass, resizing goes pretty smoothly, and not too much force required.

The lapua on the other hand seems to need a lot more force.

I am using a Redding Big Boss 2 press.

The two pass came about, since if I tried the lapua right off the bat, it seems to really take a lot of force...was worried about it getting stuck in the die!

Yes, I use rcbs casing grease on the pad, and also dip the neck in graphite powder...then press.

No problems if I use lapua cases in 6.5 creedmoore...but 308 lapua are tougher...kind of expected since they are supposed to last much longer, more consistant.

Any words of wisdom?
Thanks.
I'd like to hear more about this two pass method?
Lee collet die and a rcbs small base die?
 
re 308 cases: So what I did the first time I encountered this (with lake city cases), I had gottne the RCBS full length die. Running that first, was jamming things, and even crinkled in the cases at the base. I had a standard LEE 308 die, tried that on other cases first, which went ok, but cheking the case in a sheridan case gauge, was not seating all the way (not good). Then ran it through the RCBS die, full length, and that straightened it out to fit the gauge, and then knew it would be good in the gun.

Seems like only 308 is a bit of an issue (for me??!!)? It kinda 2X the effort, but I know the case will be good in the gun. I had experience where shell cases would get stuck in in the breach and not be able to eject it (bolt action, new savage). even had an instance where a live round got suck in there!! Since then, I am really careful to avoid that happening!
I moved on from savage to Mossberg patriot long range for 308, and that works great with this ammo. I use 6.5 creedmoores in Browning X-Bolt Target, they work well there, and don't have these sizing issues, even with the lapua cases, they size well. Gotta try the mink oil suggestion, really curious about that.

FYI...this is a pic of the sheridan gauge....I use this and other gauges too, to verify fit.

1757213935916.png
 
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Are you using brass fired in that rifles chamber?
Yes...this is brand new Lapua cases currently, fired in the one rifle (the mossberg), and the first resize, which had this issue in the press. The issue the first time this trouble appeared, it was fired from a different gun, then used in the savage. Then, those were lake city cases. There I had only used the LEE die, and did not have gauges to check things, Assumed it was all good (not exactly!)....educated myself after all that happened. now, being overly careful. Measuring things, checking with gauges, etc. So far so good, and have shot several hundred rounds, no issues...so staying with what works. The starline cases must be slightly thinner walls, less hard than the lapua, they don't have this trouble.

That trouble with the savage, (it was brand new), tolerances were too tight, had to be sent back, it was straightened out, but it spooked me...so again, ultra cautious.
 
It has been some time since I opened the last box of Lapua 308 brass, but I do remember they were harder to resize than either Federal or Hornady 308 brass. These were the LRP brass, not the Palma which sized easily. I switched to the Lapua Palma exclusively, but not for this reason.
 
going to try the mink oil, and the imperial wax....I have been using RCBS sizing oil...works well for .223, and 6.5 CM, for 308...needs something better! Mostly with Lake City and Lapua cases.thx
 
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I've been using the Redding resizing die wax to resize Lapua 308 brass and don't recall thinking it took a lot of force. Maybe there is some difference in batches of the brass.
 
I've been using the Redding resizing die wax to resize Lapua 308 brass and don't recall thinking it took a lot of force. Maybe there is some difference in batches of the brass.
from what others mention, the wax and mink oil might work better for 308...I will give a try and report back...should have that in about 2 days...
 
Been using Starline brass for 7 years now. Tried Hornandy brass but I liked the starline better. Easier to work.
 
I love Lapua brass and will buy it if available. :)

I have found that trying to resize factory fresh stuff can be a pain. I destroyed a few .308 cases the first time I bought them. Now I just run them into a neck mandrel or Lee collet die to even out the necks. Then load and shoot. After that I find they resize just fine, but, I don't try to reload for multiple rifles. So, the size die is set for the chamber on that one barrel.

I can see it being tough if you have to set the shoulder back a lot for different rifles.
 
Yes, they size a little differently. I find myself adjusting the sizing die slightly between the two brands to maintain clearances. An difference in force fell within the normal range for me. My powder charge was very similar for the two brands - to maintain similar speeds.
 
Update: got some mink oil...its "fellove"...amazon
Works great with .223 cases ...

kinda ok with 6.5 CM... lapua cases...but doing a double press to get them right too...

For 308...with the Lapua case, using mink oil, it is was getting stuck in the die! and in the first die I use...not the FL. Good thing i have the heavy redding pressing....the lee press would have not gotten the case out of the die.

Got it out, then used the RCBS lube 2...then went ok...did the FL size on it...was good.

So, lapua 308 cases are a bit of a problem sizing for me anyways, unless doing a first pass with the simple die that isn't as agressive, and then using the RCBS FL die...then its all good, and fits nicely in the 308 test gauge.

waiting for the "shoe gear mink oil" to give that a try, and the redding wax... i will be back with another update...
 

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