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Re-barreling a hunting rifle

I have a vintage hunting rifle chambered in .243 Win. that I want to have re-barreled. The old barrel still shoots well. I want to preserve it for future generations of our family and shoot out the replacement barrel(s).

Who would you recommend for re-barreling? Ideally, I'd like someone to duplicate the existing barrel contour, fit it to the action, head space, crown and blue it.

I believe that E.R Shaw can do this and would prefer a higher quality barrel.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
What leads you to think that an ER Shaw barrel will not shoot as well, or better than, the factory barrel?

This is primarily a benchrest/F-class shooters forum. Such degree of accuracy is comforting, but not required, of the majority of hunting situations. Are you shooting 500 yds across a 'bean field'? Or between ridge tops out west?

If not, most of what is discussed here is likely not applicable to your situation.
 
What leads you to think that an ER Shaw barrel will not shoot as well, or better than, the factory barrel?

This is primarily a benchrest/F-class shooters forum. Such degree of accuracy is comforting, but not required, of the majority of hunting situations. Are you shooting 500 yds across a 'bean field'? Or between ridge tops out west?

If not, most of what is discussed here is likely not applicable to your situation.
I understand your points and want a barrel that is accurate and doesn't walk when it gets hot, is easy to clean, and will last longer than a typical factory barrel.
 
I understand your points and want a barrel that is accurate and doesn't walk when it gets hot, is easy to clean, and will last longer than a typical factory barrel.

An ER Shaw is not necessarily a typical factory barrel.

Perhaps some usage background would be beneficial. Is this a long range varmint application, say, prairie dogs? Multiple shots in a short time period with a .243 is certainly worth consideration.
 
What action are you talking about.
Several barrel companies can turn their barrels to factory specs,

Hal
 
I understand your points and want a barrel that is accurate and doesn't walk when it gets hot, is easy to clean, and will last longer than a typical factory barrel.

Gonna be hard to get a barrel that doesnt 'walk when hot'. No such thing really. Problem with light factory sporter contour barrels is that they are gonna get hot a lot faster than heavy contour barrels.

Only thing you really need to be concerned with in a hunting rifle is a barrel that will hold a tight group with the amount of cartridges you can fit in the magazine. For that, most high quality aftermarket barrels will get the job done. If you want to shoot 20 rounds in a row at the range without letting the barrel cool, a light sporter contour barrel will get piping hot to the touch and there wont be any way to keep fliers out of the group.

Most good quality aftermarket barrels clean up very nicely so long as they are hand lapped by the manufacturer properly. As far as barrel life, factory or aftermarket makes no difference. Your shooting habits will determine your barrel life. If you just shoot a handful of rounds to sight in and a handful more for hunting each year, barrels will last a many years with good accuracy, perhaps even a lifetime. If you want to shoot a LOT of rounds while punching paper every weekend in the hot sun and keep letting your barrel get hot during shot strings, you will find yourself chasing the lands and re-tuning loads to maintain accuracy and your barrel life will be much shorter.
 
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Well, people say it all the time, but I have never seen anybody shoot at game until the barrel "walked". A hunting rifle should be tested by firing one shot at a target and waiting a considerable amount of time until it is completely cooled off then trying again. That's how it will be shot while hunting and that's how it should be tested. So, to me, walking is not an issue. I can only get one hot enough to walk by shooting it too much too fast and probably not at game.
That said, Pac-Nor or Krieger will do it. If you are seriously concerned about walking go with a single point cut rifled barrel such as a Krieger. This method of rifling imparts the least amount of stress and so it can often walk less.
 
What action are you talking about.
Several barrel companies can turn their barrels to factory specs,

Hal
It may be a 1924 Yugoslavian Mauser action. It is about 8.5" long, has a large ring, cocks on opening, and has a 98 style flanged shroud on the bolt. The rifle was made by Parker Hale in 1970.
 
If I installed a top quality barrel and it walked with heat, it would be going back for replacement.

Once again, we are back on the subject of light contour for a hunting rifle...Heat may not do much to change a top quality heavy barrel, but it can definitely affect light barrels of any make. Below is Tom's post in the last thread talking about light contours. I have had the same experience as him with light barrels. Being that the OP wants to maintain factory Parker Hale light sporter contour, heat can become an issue if wanting to punch paper all day without allowing for adequate barrel cooling. No big deal for ocassional 4 shot groups (magazine capacity) for sighting in and testing at ranges.

I'm sometimes quite surprised as to how good and forgiving a pencil barreled hunting gun will shoot. They just won't go for long shot strings is really the only negative I see.

Tom
 
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I was not talking about heavy barrels. If @tom 's fluted #2 walks when it gets some heat in it, its going back to rock creek. What he meant is, that you are not gonna run 10 shots down it with out getting it so hot you would be abusing it. I will shoot my hunting barrels to the point where I cant hold my hand on the barrel. They dont walk. If they do, the bore is off center or theres stress in the steel. I have not seen a quality custom barrel walk. I did have a remington 5r sendero contour in 308 that would walk 2 minutes left as it got hot.
 

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