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Re-Barrel SPS is it worth it?

Is it worth it to have a gun Smith rebarrel and chamber a Remington SPS vs say buying a new Savage or something else? Looking to build a 204 Ruger & I want something pretty accurate Thanks.
 
Assuming you can use the same bolt face, rebarreling should get you a rifle that shoots 1/2 MOA +/- a couple tenths of a MOA.
 
I would think the cost to rebarrel would be the cheaper option and you’d get the exact profile, twist, length, etc. that you want. You could even do a Remage with a barrel nut yourself.

$350 barrel + $200 to chamber and install= $550 total
 
Consider the 20 Practical. Same velocity as. 204, and you can use .223 Rem brass necked down. Northland Shooter Supply has always been a good source for prefits.

Forum Boss: Agree on the .20 practical. See our write-ups. It is very accurate, easy to make. You don't give up much speed compared to the .204 Ruger.
 
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Yeah. ^^ Don't need to spend $350 for a nice accurate barrel - unless you're planning to compete in BR.
 
Your call - but so long as the smith tidies the 700 action and fits a good barrel - why not? There's probably no advantage in buying a Savage. There may be in looking at a varmint barrelled Tikka, if you wish to go the factory rifle route.
 
Does the rifle shoot well now? If not, it may be the bedding system. That's a relatively cheap fix compared to the cost of a new barrel.

However, if you're set on changing to a 204 Ruger, re-barreling can be worth it if you have a good smith, and you also address the bedding. In my opinion, there is no sense in spending money on a new barrel unless you also have a good bedding system to obtain the full potential of an aftermarket custom barrel.
 
Trying to get my head around a Rem 700 prefit. What about headspace?
Some people use a fired brass round, but I sprung for a go gauge when I did my 2 Remages. They don't compress like brass can and since I learned on Youtube (read AMATEUR) it was worth the extra $30-40 to eliminate that variable.
 
Some people use a fired brass round, but I sprung for a go gauge when I did my 2 Remages. They don't compress like brass can and since I learned on Youtube (read AMATEUR) it was worth the extra $30-40 to eliminate that variable.
Didn't realize they were talking Remages with a barrel nut.
 
Am going to put it in a Christensen MPR chassis system. I like the 204 in a bolt setup. I have 2 20 practical in AR & I do like them.
 
Didn't realize they were talking Remages with a barrel nut.
Remage doesn't look custom, but it is cheap and easily changed. Just the right ticket for an SPS.

I have heard of people adjusting headspace with different custom ground thickness recoil lugs. I believe if you measure it accurately, you can get it right with one try. Someone with more knowledge on this can tell if it is worth it or not.
 
I have 3 rifles now with aftermarket barrels, an AR in 6.5 Gren with a Satern barrel, a Browning A Bolt in 257 Rob with a Bartlein barrel, and a used Rem 700 that I bought used in 6 BR with an unknown aftermarket barrel. I've dealt with factory barrels for 40 odd years, battled with accuracy and especially consistency from one weekend to the next. I am more of a hunter than anything else, but I do like my rifles accurate. With the aftermarket barrels I have used, I will say that they are a lot more reliable and repeatable than any factory rifle barrel I have ever used. I am to the point where buying new rifles are of no interest. I just want to go ahead and find one of my rifles that need barreling. I just want to get that Rem 700 onto a faster twist, 1:14 limits me to what I want to do with it. I've shot it into the high .2's which I am amazed at. The Roberts and the Grendel shoot 1/2" for 5 so often its boring.
 

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