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RCBS 5-0-5 Scale Help

Anyone have any tips/tricks to get my scale to be consistant. I put my pan on it and adjust it to read right on the zero mark. Now it is zeroed out. Next I weigh something and take it off. Then re-measure and it will not read the same. Or I will weigh my stuff, then take it back to zero and it is not zeroed? I am careful when using the slider to adjust the scale and do not let anything slam or bang when measuring. This has me confused. So now I am thinking how accurate are my powder charges when I am measuring on the scale and if they are actually the same......
 
Aso, when you zero it, note VERY carefully the exact position of the pan, including the pan handle, on the hanger platform. Each time you return the pan to the hanger, make sure it is in as close to exactly the same position as possible to the position it was in when you zeroed it. Varying the pan position can cause some variation; we won't mention how we found this out. ::)
 
no fan. no air flow is present. I do try to return pan same. this was actually brought up when weighing a case without removing the pan? And also have noticed when weighing charges also
 
Have not used mechanical scales for many years, but one advice I can give is with the winter season being here and the lower humidity, static electricity is a real problem.

One thing you can do is to ground the scale, the other is to wipe your elbows and clothing that wipes across table surface when you work with the scale with dryer sheets, this should decrease the electricity and perhaps your problem. You have seen how cloths when charged with this stuff sticks to each other, if this is happening to your scale, it will impede operations.
 
I weigh every charge on my 5-0-5 and rate it the No. 1 balance scale in the less-than-ridiculous price range.

Make sure the nylon pivots are clean and free. Make sure the magnetic tab is centered in the slot and not touching anywhere and make sure the pointer is not hitting the shroud around the zero mark.

The only thing I'm aware of that can produce the results you report is for something to be touching the frame or binding.
 
Yea, mine did the same until i got the pivots completely clean. They are glass or ceramic on mine, and I cleaned them with a q-tip (twisted up to make a point) and alcohol. Make sure the parts that fit into the pivots on the beam are clean and dust-free as well.
 
jonbearman: as far as I know I did. Made sure shelf it is on is level and the bench itself is level. Then with the pan on and the sliders all set to zero I adjusted the leg on the bottom of the scale to bring it up level with the zero marker.

went and made sure everything was clean and not contacting anywhere. I believe it is withing it's accuracy of 0.1gr of weighing the same thing but still not sure why it is not returning to zero after setting all the slides back in their slots at "0"
 
I have the answer that you are looking for. Your scale needs a tune up. There are several areas that will probably need attention. First, I would adjust the weights in the pan holder so that the frame of the scale is perfectly level when the pointer is exactly aligned with the index mark. Next, I would take a loot at the knife edges, looking at them straight on. This inspection will likely reveal shiny spots that indicate dullness. I was able to follow the existing angle of mine, sharpening them by hand with a coarse diamond lap, and deburring the edges with a piece of hardwood. The metal is soft. Before you put the sharpened beam back on the scale, you can use Q tips and alcohol to thoroughly clean the agates that they rest on. Next I would spread the wire hanger that the pan holder hands on just enough that it cannot shift on its support, but no so much as to impede its free movement. From there you can take a look at how accurately the it weighs a variety of weights that you have verified on a scale of known accuracy and greater precision. Adjustment of the weight of the sliding weight may by indicated. This can be done for test purposes with pieces of magic mending tape. leaving one end free to facilitate trimming off small bits. After the needed adjustment is determined, model paint may be substituted and scraped to final adjustment. When settin up the scale, make sure that the surface is pretty level both side to side and front to back. After mounting the beam to the frame, and the pan hanger and pan on the beam. pick up the pan/hanger assembly with your thumb and index finger, from under the loops that rest on the knife edges and set reset the assembly on the edges so that the edges contact the inside of the loops at 12 o'clock. While you are at it, make sure that the main knife edge'' sends are not rubbing on anything. That should keep you busy for a while. I have done a couple of scales, and a friend has done one following my directions. They all work as they should. You may have to touch up the knife edges from time to time, depending on how the scale is handled and stored. He has been very pleased with his since he fixed it up. One trick is to make up a test weight that weighs exactly the same as your pan and the charge you are using (using a paper clip for a handle, an some tape and odds and ends) , that way you can check your scale if you have doubts, without having to dump the powder from the pan. Just set it aside with the powder in it and test the scale with the weight. Electronic scales are good for some things, but I have not liked the affordable ones for such things as trickling up to a charge. There is one that I tried that was accurate enough, but some of its constriction details were too flimsy for my liking. All in all, I like a tuned balance scale better. If you do not feel up to tuning yours, there is a fellow in Bakersfield, Scott Parker I believe, that reportedly does a dandy job for about $60. If you do a search on this site, you will find his contact information. I hope that this book has not been too long for you. Good luck.
 
SS86 This is how to use the 5-0-5 and get accurate results, so please bear with me. This scale uses magnetic dampening (*)to reduce the time the beam swings. THEREFORE the arm has to swing the same distance each time to give an accurate weigh.
1. hold the beam down by pressing on top of the big weight and set the pan with the powder charge on the beam and release the arm with a sliding motion to either the front or back of the scale.
2. add powder to the pan but stop before reaching the zero mark. press the big weight down again to the bottom and release with a sliding motion to either the front or back of the scale. do this even if you only add a small amount to the pan. (It takes awhile to get the hang of doing it this way)..
* explanation; it takes 3 things to make electricity, a conductor, a magnetic field and motion. the copper tab is the conductor and is between the magnets and the arm provides the motion. try it.
 
Boyd and pdog. This will keep me busy looking at all this.

I also read on another forum washing the scale body in Dawn dish detergent will take the static out that was put on when the scale was painted. Not sure but several people said it helped alot
 
....and pivot friction is directly related to edge sharpness, and how clean and smooth the surface is that they contact. When this is seen to, you can simply trickle. You may find this interesting. I did not make the video, but I have copied some of what he did, except the needle on the beam....maybe later. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCs0Y7HH2zA
 
Here's a short video I made some while ago showing how to tune up the 502/505 scales.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMX4lq90Fy4
 
Started out with a 5-0-5 scale, could not get it to consistently measure. Not only testing it with a static weight, also by throwing/trickling a charge, duplicating how the scale is being used. Dump that charge into another pan, dump most of the charge back, re-trickle, failed that test miserably. Did most of what suggested above to improve it's accuracy. Exchanged it for another, same results, returned it.

Picked up a used Ohaus M5 for less than the 5-0-5 cost on E-bay. Cleaned it thoroughly, gave the knife edges a few light passes with a ceramic stone, leveled it. Scale works great, passes the re-trickle test.
 
+ 1 on Scott Parker, I was having trouble with my old M-5 and Mr.Allen and a few others suggested sending it to Scott for repair. Well, after a few months of use I believe its working better than when it was new. The best 60 bucks I've spent on equipment in a while. Good luck, Kenny
 
I used a 10-10 for years. First had the pivots stoned lightly, but problem would reoccur for me. I tried cleaning with alcohol but problem comes back. I think you get a small piece of dust in pivot. If you watch closely you can tell when this happens as scale moves erratically. I have a magnifying glass in front of scale to read more easily. Every once in a while I blow out pivot points with a can of compressed air and it seems to go back to reading well. I think these things are so sensitive it doesn't take much to throw them off.
 
Heck a GemPro 250 may be on order soon. I thought the scale was reading accurately then when you take the scale back to zero after weighing it's no where close to zero so that makes me not 100% if the weights I measured were actually that weight from reading to reading.
 
Bob Sebold said:
I used a 10-10 for years. First had the pivots stoned lightly, but problem would reoccur for me. I tried cleaning with alcohol but problem comes back. I think you get a small piece of dust in pivot. If you watch closely you can tell when this happens as scale moves erratically. I have a magnifying glass in front of scale to read more easily. Every once in a while I blow out pivot points with a can of compressed air and it seems to go back to reading well. I think these things are so sensitive it doesn't take much to throw them off.

A quick check to see if the bearing's got any fouling on it.

Lightly press down on the tray when it contains your charge and watch if it comes back to zero. If it comes back to a "heavy" position, then do the same by lightly lifting the tray and watch it's return to zero. If there is any drag on the bearing it will more likely than not come back to a "light" position. With clean bearings it will always return to zero.

Also, don't forget the magnets. If you use steel wool anywhere in the room it's often the case that a light piece of the stuff ends up stuck to a magnet and will drag on the "damping plate".

I prevent this all by cleaning the scale bearings before any loading session. Maybe someday I'll do it right and make a plastic cover box for when it's not in use.
 
Anyone with 505 that can tell me if the screw under the scale that levels it is suppose to have alot of play in it? I know it is suppose to screw in and out to level but what about side to side play?

This scale should not be having this much problem returning to zero. It has not even been used probably 50 times
Zeroed out and perfect.
DSC_1281.jpg


Take pan off and put it exactly where it was and this is what I get.
DSC_1280_01-1.jpg
 

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