• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Quickly tapping heavy steel brackets - impact

If you’re like me when the need arises for a seldom used jig or clamps made from heavy hot rolled steel 1/2“ or thicker, the worst part can be tapping a large number of threads by hand and the tendency is to through drill and deal with holding both ends of the bolt. No, this isn’t in place of accurate tapping on the mill or even drill press.

I was installing some 1/2”t x 4”w x 16” L brackets to support a granite overhang for a kitchen bar top and normally I‘d drill and tap these on the drill press, but the project was a day ahead of schedule and if I could tap them at the client’s house with an old Vermont American tap that was riding in a tool box for a decade and used in a drill to chase rusty threads, it would save 2 hrs of driving to come back the next day. These can’t even be called thread cutting taps - fresh out of the package they are dull, but a few minutes with a diamond pocket knife sharpener to tone down the burs on the cutting edge and off to the races. Turning a dull tap by hand with a 12 point socket and ratchet is insane, so I grabbed a cordless impact driver, the client donated a candle for lubrication and we fully expecting the tap to break. To my surprise it easily made three turns before slowing down. Reverse, one more turn, reverse one more turn, etc - one down, 11 more to go - just kept going until all the holes were done. Wax was smoking off of the tap and after powering through a few hard sections I knew it was probably toast and had chipped teeth all over and threads would be horrible, but the threads were great and the tap was no worse for wear.

I’ve always seen Lisle tap sockets and thought they would be a waste of money, but I have all the sizes now, and a 1/2” square drive cordless impact primarily for automotive, but also to thread holes and tighten up the barrel vice. I’m surprised impact tapping hasn’t brought out a number of products just for it. Since that first experience I’ve tapped 3/4” holes in 1” hot rolled for a couple of action wrenches - with a good quality tap it literally took less than 60 seconds per hole - I started the tap in the drill press chuck and when it went in a few turns and slipped, took it off and finished with the impact.

It’s a piece of cake to make a guide to help square things up on big pieces with a long, smooth, square drive extension and something square for it to slide against. I’m a wood worker so there’s always 3/4” ply scraps and a saw within arms reach. If you cut a 3/8” groove in the middle of two pieces of 3/4” x 4” square ply, wax the drill extension and clamp it lightly with wood screws, there’s a slide with very little slope. Screw that onto a ply L or sideways T bracket and you‘ll be surprised how accurate the hole will be. I’ve even clamped down a couple of stacked 2-3-4 blocks with a scrap v block clamped to the side to get the square drive extension started straight.
 

Attachments

  • A98072EC-0FF9-456C-9EE4-212799D74A96.jpeg
    A98072EC-0FF9-456C-9EE4-212799D74A96.jpeg
    246.6 KB · Views: 62
Lots of guys are afraid to turn taps fast. If you can hold it straight, and have some provisions for clearing chips(spiral tip or spiral flutes), there is nothing wrong with running 100 surface feet/min. in mild steel.
For taps #8 through 3/8" I try to use a cordless drill whenever I can.
Requires a steady hand, and I wouldn't recommend it for holes requiring very deep threads, or absolutely perfect alignment.
Grinding a small flat down the side of the shank of the tap will allow it to be held firmly by the drill chuck.
 
The single biggest culprit in tap breakage is not getting the tap started straight. For small taps. I do just like TaperPin. Start it a few turns with the drill truck then finish by hand.

of course, at our shop, where we drill and tap large holes in varied materials. It is all done by drill press, boring mill, or in a lathe.

If the tap is sharp, the hole drilled correctly, there is no reason for tap breakage. If a tap breaks, it is usually because of it bottomed out, or was not straight going in.
 
The single biggest culprit in tap breakage is not getting the tap started straight. For small taps. I do just like TaperPin. Start it a few turns with the drill truck then finish by hand.

of course, at our shop, where we drill and tap large holes in varied materials. It is all done by drill press, boring mill, or in a lathe.

If the tap is sharp, the hole drilled correctly, there is no reason for tap breakage. If a tap breaks, it is usually because of it bottomed out, or was not straight going in.
 
Most of my tapping is into a blind hole using the tail stock as a guide so I never use power. It's all by hand. My problem is always chip buildup which I blow out with the air hose so no problem. Stainless steel is a problem. It almost feels sticky and can be a bear for me. I use oil ,Tap Magic. My taps are old but a good commercial grade...Greenfield etc.
Any advice on the stainless steel?

Mort
 
Most of my tapping is into a blind hole using the tail stock as a guide so I never use power. It's all by hand. My problem is always chip buildup which I blow out with the air hose so no problem. Stainless steel is a problem. It almost feels sticky and can be a bear for me. I use oil ,Tap Magic. My taps are old but a good commercial grade...Greenfield etc.
Any advice on the stainless steel?

Mort
If it's not critical, and dependent on the size, drill or bore oversize.
 
Most of my tapping is into a blind hole using the tail stock as a guide so I never use power. It's all by hand. My problem is always chip buildup which I blow out with the air hose so no problem. Stainless steel is a problem. It almost feels sticky and can be a bear for me. I use oil ,Tap Magic. My taps are old but a good commercial grade...Greenfield etc.
Any advice on the stainless steel?

Mort

Moly Dee..
 
Most of my tapping is into a blind hole using the tail stock as a guide so I never use power. It's all by hand. My problem is always chip buildup which I blow out with the air hose so no problem. Stainless steel is a problem. It almost feels sticky and can be a bear for me. I use oil ,Tap Magic. My taps are old but a good commercial grade...Greenfield etc.
Any advice on the stainless steel?

Mort
We tap quite a bit of Stainless. Some as easily as 303, some as tough as 17-4.
Dull taps and stainless, especially the precipitation hardening grades such as 17-4, do not go together. If we have large holes to tap in the end of a 17-4 shaft, we always order a new tap. In the long run, it is much more cost affective than having to have a broken one removed by an EDM service.

We also use nothing but the Ridgid Dark high sulphur cutting oil when tapping stainless. Even in todays whiz bang world of miracle cutting “fluids”, it is still the best thing we have found.


Remember. If a tap feels dull going into the hole, it probably is.
 
Most of my tapping is into a blind hole using the tail stock as a guide so I never use power. It's all by hand. My problem is always chip buildup which I blow out with the air hose so no problem. Stainless steel is a problem. It almost feels sticky and can be a bear for me. I use oil ,Tap Magic. My taps are old but a good commercial grade...Greenfield etc.
Any advice on the stainless steel?

Mort

We tap quite a bit of Stainless. Some as easily as 303, some as tough as 17-4.
Dull taps and stainless, especially the precipitation hardening grades such as 17-4, do not go together. If we have large holes to tap in the end of a 17-4 shaft, we always order a new tap. In the long run, it is much more cost affective than having to have a broken one removed by an EDM service.

We also use nothing but the Ridgid Dark high sulphur cutting oil when tapping stainless. Even in todays whiz bang world of miracle cutting “fluids”, it is still the best thing we have found.


Remember. If a tap feels dull going into the hole, it probably is.
 
Most of my tapping is into a blind hole using the tail stock as a guide so I never use power. It's all by hand. My problem is always chip buildup which I blow out with the air hose so no problem. Stainless steel is a problem. It almost feels sticky and can be a bear for me. I use oil ,Tap Magic. My taps are old but a good commercial grade...Greenfield etc.
Any advice on the stainless steel?

Mort
The best advice I ever got about tapping stainless is straight out of "Machinery's Handbook". A taper tap takes a very light cut per tooth, and some stainless will work harden enough that the next tooth won't bite through the skin. Switching to a plug tap puts a heavier load on each tooth, but they will be diving under the work hardened skin.
A spiral flute tap evacuates chips out the back, so they don't pack up tight.
You have to try it to believe it.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,262
Messages
2,214,865
Members
79,496
Latest member
Bie
Back
Top