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Question

urbanrifleman

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I have an MPA chassis that was bedded for another action. It is an aluminum chassis and I was wondering if I could cook out the bedding on some easy way
 
I have an MPA chassis that was bedded for another action. It is an aluminum chassis and I was wondering if I could cook out the bedding on some easy way
Keep in mind
Alum has twice the thermal expansion as steel does
if you use heat hot enough to take out epoxy....it may warp the chassis
I'd skim over it with an end mill then skim bed
---
but others may have ideas , a heat gun may be worth a try without hurting the chassis
or as others have used an iron to remove a glue in
maybe drill some screws into the bedding then set an iron on the chassis for 20 mins and try to pull out the bedding
 
Cooking it would probably destroy or alter the dye in the anodizing, producing a marked color shift - I have used that method, but I'm not big on aesthetics. If there is powder coating it would also be affected, and any polymer parts would have to be removed first. I would prefer to use a die grinder/Dremel/shaft tool with a cutting burr since I don't have a mill. The fresh, rough surface would be a benefit as any oils would be removed and the new epoxy would bond better. Unfinished aluminum forms an oxide layer that thickens over time, and it will reduce the strength of the epoxy bond - roughening immediately before epoxy application is highly recommended.
 
Cooking it would probably destroy or alter the dye in the anodizing, producing a marked color shift - I have used that method, but I'm not big on aesthetics. If there is powder coating it would also be affected, and any polymer parts would have to be removed first. I would prefer to use a die grinder/Dremel/shaft tool with a cutting burr since I don't have a mill. The fresh, rough surface would be a benefit as any oils would be removed and the new epoxy would bond better. Unfinished aluminum forms an oxide layer that thickens over time, and it will reduce the strength of the epoxy bond - roughening immediately before epoxy application is highly recommended.
Agreed
and good call with Alum oxidation, it only takes 2 mins to form an oxide layer
 
I use mechanical (dremel with sanding drum and carbide burrs) removal.
That said, I don't see how it could be detrimental to try a heat gun on high to see if it would be successful in softening the epoxy (600 F) to the point where it most of it could be scraped off, then getting down to bare metal with the rotary tool.
 
I have an MPA chassis that was bedded for another action. It is an aluminum chassis and I was wondering if I could cook out the bedding on some easy way
I'm not familiar with an MPA chassis but, if the surface under the epoxy is flat, you can use a scraper similar to a mechanics gasket scraper. Heat the scraper hot, use fire, and push it under the epoxy. Have the wind at your back. Don't breathe the fumes.
 
Mill it out or go Neanderthal and use a Dremel. The flex extension kit for Dremels turns an instrument of destruction into a very useful.tool. The late style flex attachment lets you lay down a sanding drum a bit more than the early style.
 
I woud take the Dremmel/die grinder to it and then skim bed. If it's a Remington/ Clone, examine the tang area Carefully - I have seen that area be a bit mishaped and needing an aluminium "shim" made to improve the fit.
I think this is your best bet. I have re bedded regular stocks by grinding out a lot of the bedding then simply rebedding it.
 
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