Question regarding F class shooting

[Meyersmp]

I'm new to F class and just trying to figure things out. My process so far is to shoot a few sighters and basically zero the scope. When shooting for record, I try to monitor changes in conditions and hold for wind. My question is I also seem to encounter a fair amount of vertical dispersion. I'm far from perfect, but I do have a fair amount of shooting experience and feel I have pretty good trigger control. Should I be looking at load consistency? Standard deviation in velocity runs around 10-15 fps. I'm currently shooting a Ruger precision rifle with plans for a custom shortly. What else should I be looking at or doing differently? Thanks

 

[Joseph Cordeiro]

I'm new to F class and just trying to figure things out. My process so far is to shoot a few sighters and basically zero the scope. When shooting for record, I try to monitor changes in conditions and hold for wind. My question is I also seem to encounter a fair amount of vertical dispersion. I'm far from perfect, but I do have a fair amount of shooting experience and feel I have pretty good trigger control. Should I be looking at load consistency? Standard deviation in velocity runs around 10-15 fps. I'm currently shooting a Ruger precision rifle with plans for a custom shortly. What else should I be looking at or doing differently? Thanks

Vertical shots are typically out of your “node” and/or wind conditions. If you haven’t done a ladder test yet I would start with that.

 

[Titan]

Fast string fire for 20+ strings and factory barrels are not a great combination, most purpose build class rifles use straight contour 1.25 diameter barrels to sink heat and a cut rifled barrel will typically shoot inside a factory barrel and part of your vertical is random dispersion or the baseline accuracy of the barrel.Other factors include bullet and caliber some combinations are easier to get tighter vertical at 1000 yards(284 win, 300wsm). Time of flight and BC matter as well as head or tail wind can drive vertical but this is low on the list a better baseline accuracy is the most important. To get you es and sd lower I recommend a good lab grade scale and a temperature stable powder.

 

[Meyersmp]

Thanks for the responses guys. Is my strategy correct? I know it can be a mistake to just correct for the last impact. As mentioned, I'm planning on a custom rifle in the near future.

 

[Titan]

Thanks for the responses guys. Is my strategy correct? I know it can be a mistake to just correct for the last impact. As mentioned, I'm planning on a custom rifle in the near future.

your strategy can be correct for a given condition if it's stable there's nothing wrong with making small corrections to your last shot or chasing the spotter but this strategy will not help you account for a rapid or sudden change of direction or speed in wind for this you need to monitor the mirage and the flags to pick up on the change as simply chasing the spotter will not account for times when there's a rapid change in conditions. Another strategy is picking your condition out of a cycling condition so you basically run a known condition as fast as you can and then stall out or wait if the condition shifts with the expectation it's going to return to your known condition. Combinations of the above strategies may lead to better results than simply running in all conditions and chasing the spotter.

 

[rardoin]

I set my scope for a 100yd zero and only 'zero' out the windage at distance if there is apparent dead calm conditions. If I find a true dead calm then I can dial in a true 'no wind' zero. I keep a record of that and the next time I am at a 100yd range in calm winds I can dial in my 600 or 1000yd no wind zero and see where it impacts at 100yds (mine is about 3/8" left at 100 when on at 1000). Once reproducible I know where to dial at my match distance to get a true zero. I then hold off from there unless I have winds high enough to hold outside of the black...then I might add an appropriate amount to keep my holds inside the black. As far as strategy....that is something that will develop over a couple of years. My biggest mistake early on was trying to chase conditions instead of finding a good condition that was readable, giving 10's/X's, and waiting on it to come back. Chasing the spotter works if you can spot the coming changes that will cause a train wreck but usually patience works better if new to this game. I suggest watching other targets and seeing when the guys/gals shooting X's are shooting and the conditions that they are choosing and try to stick to those conditions.

 

[Sandstorm]

Super good advise here...also the kind of things I was told when I started out in this endeavor.
I also shot a Factory Tikka T3 X Tac A1 my first season. What a good learning and humbling experience.
Its going to beat you up in the long run however..and frustrating, as factory equipment in no match for
a good Brux 32 inch and a 284 Shehane for example...
It was however a really good experience and one I would not have missed for anything.
Now that I have the right equipment, I can grow and learn at a more stable an repeatable pace.
Still wish Id started as a young lad as this game is not an easy one to High Master....lol
These guys on AS Forum will sure help you get there a little easier...

 

[Rope2horns]

Chasing the spotter works......but learning the part when it's time to start or stop without shooting a 9 (or worse) is the trick, and that usually takes awhile.

 

[Dgd6mm]

Missing a condition change can and will do it everytime.

 

[boltman13]

Remember you are aiming at a 1 MOA 10 ring with a rifle, barrel, load combination that may not be capable of maintaining that degree of accuracy for 20 shots plus sighters, let alone 3 such strings in a match. If you are able to call your shots with any degree of precision and have a shot that strikes away from your call with no major change in conditions I suggest you chalk it up to operator error, your load, or whatever. Do not chase that shot with your hold off and make sure the condition has not changed and continue with the hold you were using in the same condition. I used to react to a sudden 9 when I was shooting 10's and X's by always assuming it was a condition change and changing my point of aim accordingly, even though conditions did not look different to me, and followed that nine with an even lower score and now WTF. You have to trust your rifle/load and your call. When your rifle/load is not capable of a small dispersion it makes dealing with changes in conditions much more difficult but sometimes it was not the condition that caused the errant shot. A purpose built F-Class rifle/load with a sub MOA dispersion will make your task a lot easier and your scores will improve as your wind reading improves. Best of luck.

 

[Meyersmp]

Thanks for all the replies. I look forward to trying out your suggestions.

 

[Fast14riot]

What are you using for front and rear rest? These in the wrong place or used incorrectly can cause vertical. Also, have you had a known good shooter try your rifle to try and eliminate driver error?

 

[Downeast]

I'm not trying to steal this thread but I'm in the same boat as @Meyersmp and thank everyone for the info. Great thread!
This was my "first" 600 yard target with 10 shots. 6.5 Creed with 140 grain Berger's in a 26" Krieger bbl. SD was 12. Not sure where to go from here? I'll shoot again over the holidays. Any more information that you can provide the both of us would really help.

Merry Christmas everyone!
Tom

 

[rardoin]

I'm not trying to steal this thread but I'm in the same boat as @Meyersmp and thank everyone for the info. Great thread!
This was my "first" 600 yard target with 10 shots. 6.5 Creed with 140 grain Berger's in a 26" Krieger bbl. SD was 12. Not sure where to go from here? I'll shoot again over the holidays. Any more information that you can provide the both of us would really help.

Merry Christmas everyone!
Tom

Good wind calls but that vertical will bite you. If you can run another charge weight test at 600 in somewhat calm conditions and cover a broad span of velocity you will likely find a charge with better vertical. With a load shooting like that you will leak shots into the 9 ring at the 'corners' when you miss the wind just a little bit. Ask me how I know..... Don't approach charge testing with preconceived ideas on shooting a particular velocity; shoot the charge that gives the best result on paper even if it is a bit slower than you envisioned. You can learn MUCH more with a slower but tightly grouping load than one that is less well grouping but faster. With the slower/better charge you will know why you dropped that point and won't second guess if it was you or the gun.

 

[jr600yd]

What has been stated above about load development is very true and could be the cause of your vertical stringing. Another possible cause is eye strain, letting the cross hairs drift a little high or low or not having the scope focused for your eye.

 

[NZ_Fclass]

I had better vertical control when I started paying more attention to neck tension. It's a lovely learning curve, fixing the problems one by one until one day...good bye- RCBS and Hornady, Hello Forster and Redding.

I hope my day comes soon, I don't like losing!

hey - and thanks for all the posts here - it's all such good advice and well worth reading.

 

[KiloTrooper]

My experience has taught me to 'never come off the gun'... which is to say: do everything possible to maintain your position during a stage from sighters through record fire. Organize your equipment and ammunition so that everything is within reach, knowing were it is without having to lift your head and lose your cheek-weld & sight picture. This "TTP" has worked well for me across multiple high power disciplines.

 

[mike a]

Chasing the spotter works......but learning the part when it's time to start or stop without shooting a 9 (or worse) is the trick, and that usually takes awhile.

I did that on my first match. I though the flags were just to make the range look festive. Letups still get me.