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Question on Redding Dies?

Greetings from North Idaho,

I've purchased a Redding type "S" neck sizing die set and would like to know if the titanium/nitride coated neck sleeve is worth the extra $10 over the plain steel bushing? With the small neck of the .204 that I intend to size with it, does the coated bushing eliminate the need for sizing lubricant on the neck? Thanks
 
gunamonth said:
Depends who you believe.

Thanks, You've answered one other question that I hadn't asked which is: how much smaller should the bushing be. Redding suggests .001 under, Midway suggests .002 - .003 for "spring back". Most loaded cases measured on average .2265" so I'm going to order the .225 bushing, probably in TiN and bite the bullet,pun intended) on the price.
Thanks
DH
 
I don't think carbide or TiN bushings are nessesary, but that's just an opinion as Gunamonth pointed out. Also, I don't lube necks...EVER, just the body of the case.
 
tightneck,

Thanks for your reply. :angel:

No problems with necks being pushed back into the shoulder without using lube?

I've never used the type "S" dies before so this is a learning experience for me. Normally, I use Hornady One Shot and hose the entire shell down, FL resize and vibrate clean before loading.
Thanks
DH
 
tightneck said:
I don't think carbide or TiN bushings are nessesary, but that's just an opinion as Gunamonth pointed out. Also, I don't lube necks...EVER, just the body of the case.

I'm with you. I have some TiN bushings for my .223 but did without for the 6BR, it's working just fine and I don't use any lube either. Sizing the necks is effortless, far less effort than body sizing. -Rod-
 
I love the TiN bushings...have had Wilson and Redding steel bushings scratch necks...polishing the entry chamfer didn't help...TiNit has never scratched necks and is the only way to go IMO...buy a range of them, find the one you like and sell the rest.

Redding Spec's NO lube on the insert with TiNit bushings...and to USE LUBE on the steel ones...

JB
 
I love the TiN bushings...have had Wilson and Redding steel bushings scratch necks...polishing the entry chamfer didn't help...TiNit has never scratched necks and is the only way to go IMO...buy a range of them, find the one you like and sell the rest.

Redding Spec's NO lube on the insert with TiNit bushings...and to USE LUBE on the steel ones...

AND there lies the reason for TiN bushings...They do not scratch and I see the steel ones do. I have Tin for my 308's and no scratching. I had steel for my 338LM and they did scratch the neck after I used them. So I ordered the Tin for the one I use now. I feel if your going to do the job use the best stuff you can afford. For the extra $10.00 it is worth buying.

I still find that a little RCBS spray lube spread on the inside of the Tin bushing helps. It stops that chatter on the way up that I get some times. I use a pipe cleaner and put the lube on it then on to the bushing. It lasts for about 10 rounds and I do it again.
I have seen no compression of the shoulder at all. I am using a steel on the 6mmBR. I have seen no signs of scratching yet so who knows.

Edited..I need to add That I do 338 brass for 2 other people so I have used the steel bushing on about 300 rounds before I started seeing a problem. I have over the last 2 yrs preped over 4000 rounds of 338 for my friends and have had no problem with the TiN bushing.
 
gunamonth said:
Don't often disagree with JB but...

Redding recommends for best concentricity the necks be lubed even with TiN bushings.

Redding TechLine

G-a-M - No sweat, it seems, like with their bushing size recommendation, they have likewise changed their bushing lube recommendations...I have the packaging inserts that came with some bushings a couple years ago that state what I mentioned previously ;) O well, things change ;)

JB
 

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