Question from a Newbie

[shelmans]

I am new to rifle reloading. Question: Should I run NEW (unfired) Remington
Brass through the sizing die before the first loading?

 

[guidom]

yes

 

[NateHaler]

I am new to rifle reloading. Question: Should I run NEW (unfired) Remington
Brass through the sizing die before the first loading?

Not necessarily. Try dropping a case into your chamber first. Does it fit? If it does, proceed to the next step. Try dropping a bullet into the case. Does it slip inside, or would it need to be pressed in? If it's the latter, then I wouldn't size the cases first. I'd load and shoot them right out of the box, which is what I do with Lapua brass. 8)

 

[Immike]

Make sure you trim and deburr it before you load it. Make it all the same.

 

[Webster]

You cannot go wrong sizing them. The case neck ends may be slightly out of round from manufacturing?

 

[Shynloco]

I am new to rifle reloading. Question: Should I run NEW (unfired) Remington
Brass through the sizing die before the first loading?

Not necessarily. Try dropping a case into your chamber first. Does it fit? If it does, proceed to the next step. Try dropping a bullet into the case. Does it slip inside, or would it need to be pressed in? If it's the latter, then I wouldn't size the cases first. I'd load and shoot them right out of the box, which is what I do with Lapua brass. 8)

IMHO, what Nate says is absolutely the best advice. Personally (and as an accuracy freak), after years and years of "fireforming" new brass, I STRONGLY recommend you DO NOT resize new brass until after the initial/fireforming of that brass. The idea of fireforming to is to put any "NEW" brass through the heated-expansion and contraction process where you learn how that particular brass adheres to your particular rifle's chamber. And always remember, no two chambers are alike. Now of course, the new brass must be chamfered, deburred and lengths all the cut same length (if necessary). And until you have fired and gone through that initial fireforming process, do not concern yourself with seeking the best accuracy with that brass until it is resized the first time AFTER being shot. A mid-range load will suffice for the fireforming process.

Alex

 

[DRNewcomb]

I would probably back the die out a half turn to neck size, then trim and debur before loading.

 

[Shynloco]

I am new to rifle reloading. Question: Should I run NEW (unfired) Remington
Brass through the sizing die before the first loading?

Not necessarily. Try dropping a case into your chamber first. Does it fit? If it does, proceed to the next step. Try dropping a bullet into the case. Does it slip inside, or would it need to be pressed in? If it's the latter, then I wouldn't size the cases first. I'd load and shoot them right out of the box, which is what I do with Lapua brass. 8)

IMHO, what Nate says is absolutely the best advice. Personally (and as an accuracy freak), after years and years of "fireforming" new brass, I STRONGLY recommend you DO NOT resize new brass until after the initial/fireforming of that brass. The idea of fireforming to is to put any "NEW" brass through the heated-expansion and contraction process where you learn how that particular brass adheres to your particular rifle's chamber. And always remember, no two chambers are alike. Now of course, the new brass must be chamfered, deburred and lengths all the cut same length (if necessary). And until you have fired and gone through that initial fireforming process, do not concern yourself with seeking the best accuracy with that brass until it is resized the first time AFTER being shot. A mid-range load will suffice for the fireforming process.

Alex

I should clarify what I wrote. Neck sizing is alright to do with new brass prior to loading and first firing. Full length sizing prior to first firing in my book is a NO NO.

 

[Clod-NC]

Hi Shelmans,hi all
Shelmans,I reckon you can follow Syinloco's advice,trust him,he knows what he's talking about,not that the others don't,but his post is right on the mark.I'll add my 2 cent so hopefully you'll have a clearer idea where you put your feet into.Here goesrder from Lee or FS reloading a collet die in the various calibers you intend to reload for,order also a decapping die($10 or $12),try and check Redding for a body die in the same calibers you reload for and order them,order from Sinclair seater dies from Hornady with their microjust seating plugs,or if you're rich order Forster microseaters(top notch),and you're all set(nearly) in terms of dies.For your new brass,size their necks,prime, drop a minimum charge, seat a cheap bullet and shoot,do that 3 times on a row,always being attentive on how your bolt closes,if OK,then your brass will be ready for ultimate case prep,reloading,neck turning,shoulder bumping,deburring,trimming etc...While you're at it,take the decapping pin out of the collet dies' mandrels(they're useless if not bugging at times).You'll love it,I promise,and please,above all,ask the gentlemen here for advice,it's the best place you could dream of for that,and besides,they love to help.Don't forget to activate the search button in the various sections here,but please,ask. Welcome here,you couldn't find any better place for it.

 

[gotcha]

Shelmans, Since you're new to reloading consider this: If you bought your brass in bulk you'll find a lot of cases w/ crushed, out of round necks or dinged case mouths. For that reason I run new Remy through a collet, neck or F/L die 1st. If a F/L die, I back the die out about a half turn so as not to size the body, just straighten out the necks. A boat tail bullet will tend to push imperfections out of the neck as the bullet is slowly seated. A flat base bullet in a poorly formed neck will tend to crush the case and ruin the neck permanently. I do my trimming after fire forming as the cases will not stretch uniformly upon fire forming but will settle down nicely after that. (why trim twice?) I've had some really nice Remy brass & some i'd just as soon forget about. Hope you get the "good stuff" If you intend to chamfer & deburr prior to shooting you want to have a perfectly round case mouth or you'll booger the deburring job & ruin any chance for concentricity of bullet to cartridge............ Just my .02

 

[shelmans]

Thanks to all for the advice....lot's to consider!