Ok, please allow me to include some information to the discussion and allow me to welcome you to the world of reloading.
First; as you may have guessed there is a wealth of information out there, but for every piece of data, there are hundreds of opinions.
Second: A little history... At one point, it was/is believed that a reduced load (less than ~80% fill) could cause the entire powder stack to ignite at once. (think of case filled with 50% powder tipped on its side when the primer fires).
Liability will state that you MUST always follow manuals, so I will also say the same. Stick to your manual's range of loads. That said, each manual is made using materials with different tolerances. Welcome to the "guessing" game. To resolve the "guessing" game, variables such as different brass (meaning different internal volumes/harnesses/and all other brass properties), different seating lengths (how much volume is remaining once bullet is seated), different bullets (not all bullets are the same shape, resulting in different volume), and etc etc...
I always recommend that a new reloader get access to 3 different sources of data. The LEE manual isn't wrong, nor is Nosler, nor is Hornady or Hodgdon; but they all use different variables. The best manuals are those that tell you the details. What case, what volume, what seating depth, what primer, what barrel length, how many times you must cluck like a chicken, etc...
Most excellent manuals work up loads to find Maximum for pressure (SAAMI or other), then reduce 10% for starting loads. Other resources will only list their Maximum, and let you determine starting load. For reference, a magnum cartridge for example is recommended to start at 5% reduced not 10%...
Guess what my next "free" advice will be, multiple manuals for reloading instructions. (I like the ABCs of reloading to start). This is a data game, and sometimes you are the only decider as to what data is relevent to you and your firearm, vs. what is outside the standard deviation. That takes practice, so take your time and learn at whatever pace you enjoy.
We're here to help you out, but take our advice with a grain of salt. It's not our face next to your chamber when you send it. That said, a great indicator for more data is when you get the default requisite liability statement of NO without more information as to why, or when we begin speculating on how your load might be a magic loading... Data to keep together is powder, bullet, brass, primer, case length (as in was it trimmed to min or near max), and Cartridge overall length. Add to that specs on your intended use (chamber, barrel length, goal) then we can help.
I have been reloading for 15 years, and have measured my success by accuracy at various distances only, however, that puts a lot of pressure on finding pressure signs. Studying and being careful on load workups will get you the experience you need.
223 Remington is a great round as well. I see you've uncovered some 223 vs. 5.56 discussion. The difference between the two is in measurements of the chamber (and mainly distance bullet travels before engaging rifling). This allows the latter (5.56) to be "loaded" to a higher pressure. Enjoy your research on the differences between the two, this will result in the greatest opinion discrepancy in shooting discussion I've seen since the conundrum of what came first, chicken or egg...
Finally, it never hurts to learn how to pull bullets. Far less painful than picking action pieces out of your face, or counting your lucky stars that you wore good shooting glasses and you keep your vision.
Hope this is helpful, Feel free to PM me if needed, or welcome to the site and post away!
-Mac
First; as you may have guessed there is a wealth of information out there, but for every piece of data, there are hundreds of opinions.
Second: A little history... At one point, it was/is believed that a reduced load (less than ~80% fill) could cause the entire powder stack to ignite at once. (think of case filled with 50% powder tipped on its side when the primer fires).
Liability will state that you MUST always follow manuals, so I will also say the same. Stick to your manual's range of loads. That said, each manual is made using materials with different tolerances. Welcome to the "guessing" game. To resolve the "guessing" game, variables such as different brass (meaning different internal volumes/harnesses/and all other brass properties), different seating lengths (how much volume is remaining once bullet is seated), different bullets (not all bullets are the same shape, resulting in different volume), and etc etc...
I always recommend that a new reloader get access to 3 different sources of data. The LEE manual isn't wrong, nor is Nosler, nor is Hornady or Hodgdon; but they all use different variables. The best manuals are those that tell you the details. What case, what volume, what seating depth, what primer, what barrel length, how many times you must cluck like a chicken, etc...
Most excellent manuals work up loads to find Maximum for pressure (SAAMI or other), then reduce 10% for starting loads. Other resources will only list their Maximum, and let you determine starting load. For reference, a magnum cartridge for example is recommended to start at 5% reduced not 10%...
Guess what my next "free" advice will be, multiple manuals for reloading instructions. (I like the ABCs of reloading to start). This is a data game, and sometimes you are the only decider as to what data is relevent to you and your firearm, vs. what is outside the standard deviation. That takes practice, so take your time and learn at whatever pace you enjoy.
We're here to help you out, but take our advice with a grain of salt. It's not our face next to your chamber when you send it. That said, a great indicator for more data is when you get the default requisite liability statement of NO without more information as to why, or when we begin speculating on how your load might be a magic loading... Data to keep together is powder, bullet, brass, primer, case length (as in was it trimmed to min or near max), and Cartridge overall length. Add to that specs on your intended use (chamber, barrel length, goal) then we can help.
I have been reloading for 15 years, and have measured my success by accuracy at various distances only, however, that puts a lot of pressure on finding pressure signs. Studying and being careful on load workups will get you the experience you need.
223 Remington is a great round as well. I see you've uncovered some 223 vs. 5.56 discussion. The difference between the two is in measurements of the chamber (and mainly distance bullet travels before engaging rifling). This allows the latter (5.56) to be "loaded" to a higher pressure. Enjoy your research on the differences between the two, this will result in the greatest opinion discrepancy in shooting discussion I've seen since the conundrum of what came first, chicken or egg...
Finally, it never hurts to learn how to pull bullets. Far less painful than picking action pieces out of your face, or counting your lucky stars that you wore good shooting glasses and you keep your vision.
Hope this is helpful, Feel free to PM me if needed, or welcome to the site and post away!
-Mac
