Question for JB on Ultrasonic
- Thread starter Caduceus
- Start date
JB you da man!
Everything works as described. I first used a heavy poly beaker and it does indeed attenuate the HF energy. I haven't tried glass, but settled on a thin plastic tub which holds 40 6BR cases comfortably. Works fine.
Per the idea of using a poly bag, I'll bet it will work, but take care to "burp" all the cases. Laying sideways they can trap air and that ain't good.
I found the vinegar solution very effective, completely cleaning my cases in the first 480-second cycle. I will probably do a second cycle anyway, but I don't plan to do the third.
Resizing lubricant is a problem. I used One-Shot, which I thought was water soluble. Apparently not, it combined with the carbon to make a nasty-looking black slime which loves to cling to the brass. It wipes off easily. I will add more detergent next time -- there must be a way to emulsify the stuff.
I found the Birchwood Casey solution to be marginal. I'll recheck my mixing ratio and try it again.
Finally, the only difficulty I encountered was a surprise. The brass,Lapua) has a different feel to it after cleaning, a "dried out" feel. And even though the primer pockets were clean as new, I had a hell of a time seating primers. I have loaded close to 3000 .223 & 6BR rounds with my trusty Lee hand primer, and never once crushed a primer. Four out of 40 of the ultrasonically cleaned cases got jammed up so tight I had to disassemble the priming tool and knock the half-seated primers out with a drift punch. These were PMC,copper) primers. I'll try CCI next time.
Don't get me wrong, I am really happy with results. Just have a few kinks to work out.
My main goal was clean necks,inside and out), and clean necks is what I got.
Thanks,
Jeff
Everything works as described. I first used a heavy poly beaker and it does indeed attenuate the HF energy. I haven't tried glass, but settled on a thin plastic tub which holds 40 6BR cases comfortably. Works fine.
Per the idea of using a poly bag, I'll bet it will work, but take care to "burp" all the cases. Laying sideways they can trap air and that ain't good.
I found the vinegar solution very effective, completely cleaning my cases in the first 480-second cycle. I will probably do a second cycle anyway, but I don't plan to do the third.
Resizing lubricant is a problem. I used One-Shot, which I thought was water soluble. Apparently not, it combined with the carbon to make a nasty-looking black slime which loves to cling to the brass. It wipes off easily. I will add more detergent next time -- there must be a way to emulsify the stuff.
I found the Birchwood Casey solution to be marginal. I'll recheck my mixing ratio and try it again.
Finally, the only difficulty I encountered was a surprise. The brass,Lapua) has a different feel to it after cleaning, a "dried out" feel. And even though the primer pockets were clean as new, I had a hell of a time seating primers. I have loaded close to 3000 .223 & 6BR rounds with my trusty Lee hand primer, and never once crushed a primer. Four out of 40 of the ultrasonically cleaned cases got jammed up so tight I had to disassemble the priming tool and knock the half-seated primers out with a drift punch. These were PMC,copper) primers. I'll try CCI next time.
Don't get me wrong, I am really happy with results. Just have a few kinks to work out.
My main goal was clean necks,inside and out), and clean necks is what I got.
Thanks,
Jeff
PNUC said:
Jeff -- those ARE the fattest primers around as well...the russian/PMC's
I cleaned and reloaded,multiple rounds) of 6.5-284 brass for 1KBR throughout this process and didnt have problems.
Yea, i get the dry feel too...NO OILS FROM YOUR HANDS...
THAT is probably why the primers seat hard -- fat primers and dry cases.
I have had no trouble seating RWS and 210 primers after cleaning the cases,308 and 6.5-284)
I think i'll try heavy detergent or laquer/paint thinner for case lube and see what happens.
JB
K Jason a question:
Beakers are generally of the Pyrex variety,My old Orchid biz also had a sterile laboratory) but can regular glass be used or might the US shatter normal glass? I think most of us of any age probably have highball glasses in our cupboards, right? Or can get them for pennies at any thrift store or garage sale. Labware is hyper-expensive. -Rod-
Beakers are generally of the Pyrex variety,My old Orchid biz also had a sterile laboratory) but can regular glass be used or might the US shatter normal glass? I think most of us of any age probably have highball glasses in our cupboards, right? Or can get them for pennies at any thrift store or garage sale. Labware is hyper-expensive. -Rod-
jb1000br said:Beakers by-the-piece
http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Pyrex-Glass-Beakers-C645.aspx
JB
Huh. Interesting site.
http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Nitric-Acid-Concentrated-32oz-P6549C670.aspx
http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Glycerin-1pt--P6369C670.aspx
While jb is the expert, I can share what has worked well for me. I use beakers. To suspend them in the water in the tank I use vacuum cleaner drive belts. Slip them around the beakers to hold them just off the bottom of the tank. To support them I use the styrofoam trays that meat comes on. Some are thick some are thin. One of the thick ones worked better than two of the thin ones for me. Used a exacto knife to cut the proper size hole in the styrofoam so the beaker "just" slides in & the vacuum drive belt keeps it at the proper level. I only use enough of the vinegar/water/soap mixture to cover the brass with just plain tap water in the main tank.
Semper Fi
Semper Fi
I have just tried cleaning a old win.94 action in my us I used a little laundry soap, hot water and 4- 480 cycles I removed most of the crap & corruption that was in there for 80 years! It left the metal a little stained but was easy to remove in getting ready to blue it. It cleaned all the little hidey places it the action and the bolt, I'm very happy with the out come.
Gerald
Gerald
Preacher
Gold $$ Contributor
I've been cleaning gun parts in a US for over 30 years with really hot water and plain ole dish soap. 1/2 hour run time will have them as clean as they'll get.
You can not have any thing touching the bottom of the tank, it hurts the wave action a lot. I suspend the heavy parts and put the smaller stuff in a SS basket.........
You can not have any thing touching the bottom of the tank, it hurts the wave action a lot. I suspend the heavy parts and put the smaller stuff in a SS basket.........
I seem to get good results with vinager and water diluted 50/50 and a bit of dish soap,I run mine 4 -480 sec cycles, I rinse and run them through a cicle or two of limi-shine,rinse and a couple cycles of BC case cleaner. Rinse and hot air dry. I found that a pint size mason jar works great when you suspend it at the right height,watch the surface for good vibrations)....is that a song??? The thickness of the beaker/jar is not really important, as the sound freq pass through the glass at a faster rate than it does through water.It only makes a difference in the height you will find works best. I'm no engineer, but from years as a Sonar tech in the Navy, it's just part of what you come to learn about sound transmission and attenuation. Find the right point in your US cleaner and you will see the effect better than any instrument...BTW don't cover the brass any more than you have to,to use all the energy available from the transducer.. Just thought I'd pass it on.. I sure am glad you'al got me to use a US cleaner, I like clean brass going into my dies..nothing to mess up my powder charge either. 15 pieces is my max.
are the beakers that you guys are using sitting right on the bottom of the pan or are they suspended ? Also I did some 308 winchester cases and they went a purple color and still had a bit crap in the primer pockets. Followed the instructions that were listed ? any one else run into this problem ? Anyone try lime juice?
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