Question about range rods

[KBrausen]

so i bought a raw barrel blank that came pre-chambered to the case im using. i rented a range rod from reamerrentals.com to indicate the barrel center when i thread it, but after reading more on the subject i found out what i really needed was an indicating rod not a range rod. my question is can i still use the range rod to center the barrel or do i need to get an indicator rod.

 

[Dave L Kiff]

so i bought a raw barrel blank that came pre-chambered to the case im using. i rented a range rod from reamerrentals.com to indicate the barrel center when i thread it, but after reading more on the subject i found out what i really needed was an indicating rod not a range rod. my question is can i still use the range rod to center the barrel or do i need to get an indicator rod.

Remember a Indicator Rod was once used for revolver Cylinder alignment at the old company I worked for . Then in 1994 I started making three types of rods, the Range Rod that has a removable bushing and then a bushing stop that is smaller than the bushing by .002 and runs at a taper for 4.5 inches and is equal to bore plus .002 to .004 over bore to stop on the grooves at the bore diameter . A perfect match should put the rod 2 to 3 inches in the barrel but tight bore causes a shallower depth . Caution this rod will not work correctly unless you use a close fitting bushing to the bore on a 60 degree center reamer and ream a even concentric small in depth cut to the barrel prior to using this type of rod . Do not trust any entrance to the barrel bore but the one you create . A properly chamfer'ed barrel mouth will let you install the rod trued to the barrel bore concentricity and let you remove the rod and reinstall it to the bore within the alignment that your slip fit rod to bushing and bushing to bore stackable tolerance is . Another words put your best fitting bushing on the rod and dip it in STP or clean thick petroleum so the space is filled between the moving parts . Now remember the 2nd type rod we grind, the Indicator Rod is a rod that is at minimum groove diameter plus a .001or more so that has a 1°-30 angle will match a chamber throat some what closely to re-chamber and matches the angle on the new Reamer throat . This type rod is used to Re-chamber and also double as a Revolver Cylinder alignment tool by just changing bushing for what ever type weapon your working on per caliber of course. The best use i have seen for the Grizzly , Gordy Rod, third type rod is to chase the dog leg by running it up and down the bore to find the curvature and always having the curvature up for gravitational drop and gravitational throat erosion and easier to handle barrel vibration twang . I scribe the new barrel once found to keep it at top . . I personal judge throat erosion and when its unbearable . I will cut as much off the barrel as needed re-chamber and clock the old top scribe of the first chamber exactly to the bottom side so my old gravitational throat erosion remnant is at the top and the new gravitational erosion laps the old top that is now the bottom of the installed barrel to give me more life . These are things that I have promoted to do with some of our products and the way I handle my personal barrels taught to me by P.O.Ackley, Herold Broughton and Keith Francis many years ago . Please let me know how others view these types of rods and how you use them . Thanks Dave

 

[Dave L Kiff]

Remember a Indicator Rod was once used for revolver Cylinder alignment at the old company I worked for . Then in 1994 I started making three types of rods, the Range Rod that has a removable bushing and then a bushing stop that is smaller than the bushing by .002 and runs at a taper for 4.5 inches and is equal to bore plus .002 to .004 over bore to stop on the grooves at the bore diameter . A perfect match should put the rod 2 to 3 inches in the barrel but tight bore causes a shallower depth . Caution this rod will not work correctly unless you use a close fitting bushing to the bore on a 60 degree center reamer and ream a even concentric small in depth cut to the barrel prior to using this type of rod . Do not trust any entrance to the barrel bore but the one you create . A properly chamfer'ed barrel mouth will let you install the rod trued to the barrel bore concentricity and let you remove the rod and reinstall it to the bore within the alignment that your slip fit rod to bushing and bushing to bore stackable tolerance is . Another words put your best fitting bushing on the rod and dip it in STP or clean thick petroleum so the space is filled between the moving parts . Now remember the 2nd type rod we grind, the Indicator Rod is a rod that is at minimum groove diameter plus a .001or more so that has a 1°-30 angle will match a chamber throat some what closely to re-chamber and matches the angle on the new Reamer throat . This type rod is used to Re-chamber and also double as a Revolver Cylinder alignment tool by just changing bushing for what ever type weapon your working on per caliber of course. The best use i have seen for the Grizzly , Gordy Rod, third type rod is to chase the dog leg by running it up and down the bore to find the curvature and always having the curvature up for gravitational drop and gravitational throat erosion and easier to handle barrel vibration twang . I scribe the new barrel once found to keep it at top . . I personal judge throat erosion and when its unbearable . I will cut as much off the barrel as needed re-chamber and clock the old top scribe of the first chamber exactly to the bottom side so my old gravitational throat erosion remnant is at the top and the new gravitational erosion laps the old top that is now the bottom of the installed barrel to give me more life . These are things that I have promoted to do with some of our products and the way I handle my personal barrels taught to me by P.O.Ackley, Herold Broughton and Keith Francis many years ago . Please let me know how others view these types of rods and how you use them . Thanks Dave

Note , make sure a rod you rent has a assortment of bushings to fit the bore closely and is not bent or scored . I have seen it all

 

[hogan]

Why would buy a "pre-chambered" barrel that was not threaded? If you got your action, you measure boltface to action shoulder and boltnose to shoulder; supply these to your barrelmaker (If they chamber) and voila! Ready to go or at least for reaming finisher. Or buy a blank that was turned to your desired profile.

Is this a Brownells short-chambered barrel? Seems most of those are threaded... Are you cutting threads for muzzle device? Hard to see that this barrel won't need chamber work once receiver threads are cut. I would be sure of the headspace dimension I wanted before taking any action here.