Question about Adams Auto Thrower for FX-120i

[MrBottleneck]

I have the FX-120i and cannot decide if I just want the Auto Trickler or both Trickler and Thrower.
I currently just use a Hornady manual lever powder thrower. At times when throwing say a stick powder like Varget or H4350 it binds on a kernel.

Does the Adams auto thrower have that issue?
If so, how is that addressed?

Thanks

 

[pat fulghum]

I use the Auto Trickler / Thrower... well worth it.
I have never had a kernel cause a jam / bind.
In the early production runs the drop tube was to small of a diameter and H4831 (not SC) could cause a jam, that was address by using a bigger straw and port size. It was a ~$10 upgrade. I believe that was fixed in current production run, but check with him.

@adamjmac is his username

-pat

 

[ratbuster]

The auto trickler provides more time savings than the auto thrower. For low volume you could do without the auto thrower. The auto thrower makes the whole process more relaxing and is especially nice for high volume reloading.

 

[Twoboxer]

My experience matches the previous posts. All of the precision is given to you by the scale and the trickler. It's simple enough to use a set of Lee Dippers - or any other powder measure or home made scoops for that matter - to throw the next base charge.

What the AutoThrower does do is allow you to fully overlap (eg) bullet seating with making the next charge. And save a klutz like me from spilling powder on it's way to the scale lol.

If you do decide to get it later, your total cost is only about $30 more. ANd then you'll know you wanted it.

 

[bradb]

Mine has kind of bound up and not drop the charge, a snap of the finger against he black part of the drum and it drops and back to normal

 

[ratbuster]

Mine has kind of bound up and not drop the charge, a snap of the finger against he black part of the drum and it drops and back to normal

Try loosening the silver Philips head screw on the drum ever so slightly

 

[powderbrake]

I have the FX-120i and cannot decide if I just want the Auto Trickler or both Trickler and Thrower.
I currently just use a Hornady manual lever powder thrower. At times when throwing say a stick powder like Varget or H4350 it binds on a kernel.

Does the Adams auto thrower have that issue?
If so, how is that addressed?

Thanks

My Adams thrower has never jammed or stalled using Varget and N133, the only powders I have used it on. I do not see this as being a problem.
If you can swing the cost at this time, definitely go for both. If not, get the Trickler, you can always add the thrower later for $230.

I love my Fx120i package with the Auto thrower and Auto trickler. I get .02 grain accurate measures in 10 to 12 seconds.

I STRONGLY recommend you use the wind shields when using the unit, as your breath will change the readings. I drilled a hole in the one side shield to pass the tube of the Autotrickler

 

[bradb]

When mine did it it was with longer stick powder in large charges. An d dont' get me wrong I think the thing is great

 

[ngb1787]

Ditto on loosen the screw on the drum a fudge at a time

 

[jr600yd]

I use an old Hornady powder measure. Set it about 2 grs shy of load I want then place the pan in the FX and let the auto trickler finish off the last of the powder. Works for me!

 

[boltman13]

If you can afford it get the auto thrower, it makes the whole process simpler. I have had zero problems with Varget or H4350 now with over 500 cycles. It has made my reloading so much less tedious.

 

[MrBottleneck]

Thanks for everyones input its appreciated.

 

[Gina1]

Just got my FX 120I today. It is nice !!!

Took a little while to set up, as I go slow, so I don't loose any parts. I've got the trickler and auto throw package. Software was already set up for GN's
Measured the dropped powder, and it was right on with my old electronic scale. Looks like I'm going to have an RCBS charge master for sale.
Just one thing threw me off, until I got it figured out. The powder pan that comes with the FX is a plastic up, with a snap ring holder. I guess it has to be deep enough so as the powder is coming down the auto thrower, it does not bounce out of the cup. When I went to weigh it on my digital scale, for verification, it was a little low. (by .05-06 GN's.) Not something I was expecting from this unit $$$ !
Turns out it was static electricity from the plastic cup holding on to a few kernels of my 8208 BRX powder. Rubbed the cup with cloths dryer towel. Problem solved.
Gina

 

[Dos XX]

Just got my FX 120I today. It is nice !!!

Took a little while to set up, as I go slow, so I don't loose any parts. I've got the trickler and auto throw package. Software was already set up for GN's
Measured the dropped powder, and it was right on with my old electronic scale. Looks like I'm going to have an RCBS charge master for sale.
Just one thing threw me off, until I got it figured out. The powder pan that comes with the FX is a plastic up, with a snap ring holder. I guess it has to be deep enough so as the powder is coming down the auto thrower, it does not bounce out of the cup. When I went to weigh it on my digital scale, for verification, it was a little low. (by .05-06 GN's.) Not something I was expecting from this unit $$$ !
Turns out it was static electricity from the plastic cup holding on to a few kernels of my 8208 BRX powder. Rubbed the cup with cloths dryer towel. Problem solved.
Gina

I had the same static problem. I bought some stainless steel shot glasses on Amazon for $7.99/pkg 4.. I would offer to send you one, as I don't need 4, but it would probably cost more to mail one than to by 4 on Amazon.

Search this on Amazon:

Yueton Set of 4 Stainless Steel Shot Cups Drinking Vessel with Black Leather Carrying Case (70ml)

 

[Gina1]

Thank you for the information. Wilco

 

[powderbrake]

I tried the stainless steel cups, and went back to the plastic cup and handle that is supplied with the autothrower.

One suggestion I have is to put TWO bends in the straw, that makes it less likely to have kernels fly out of the cup when dispensing. And yes, I use the clothes dryer anti static wipes all over all my powder handling equipment.

 

[spife7980]

I tried the stainless steel cups, and went back to the plastic cup and handle that is supplied with the autothrower.

One suggestion I have is to put TWO bends in the straw, that makes it less likely to have kernels fly out of the cup when dispensing. And yes, I use the clothes dryer anti static wipes all over all my powder handling equipment.

View attachment 1045167

x2, I use it set up so that it bends to the right but then comes back on itself to the left, that seems to slow it down a bit and I positioned it and the cup underneath it so that it hits right in the corner of the cup. Havent had a kernal pop out since I went to this set up. And I keep a couple dryer sheets stored in the thrower hopper when not in use and will give it a quick wipe down when I get ready to fill it and load.

I thought I read somewhere that from Adam that the lee thrower was chosen because it doesnt bind up on or cut the sticks like the OP was talking about. Only it will bind up on small ball powders, I got maybe 5 throws in with CFEBLK before I noticed it binding and then by 10 throws it had seized up. Too the thrower apart and you could see where the ball powder had gotten in the cracks and pretty much filled all of the internals seizing it up. But I only use ball powder for my blackout and it can autotrickle 12-19 gr fast enough, I just unplug the thrower when Im loading for that.

 

[Gina1]

Calibration !!!..... Was reading the instruction manual and was wondering what calibration weight to use. Called A & D, talked to Paul. He said to use a 100 gram laboratory weight. A & D sells them for $15.00, plus $3.00 for shipping. I know, I know, you could find it for less on Amazon and free shipping if your a prime member. But here is the deal, A & D's weight is an "M1" weight, which means it is actuate to .001 grams. The weights on Amazon are M2 weights. In reading the differences on line between M1 and M2, the M1 has a tighter tolerance. Considering the amount of money spent for this scale, I want it to be as accurate as possible. Hence the M1 was my choice.
Another item Paul mentioned, it that the FX should be re-calibrated once a week if your an active re-loader. Only need to do steps 1,2,5,6,7.
Just thought I would pass this on.
Gina

 

[Dos XX]

I changed the calibration setting to 50 grams. I think Cambridge recommended it, though it has been a while, so I might be remembering wrong.

My stainless steel shot glass plus a 43 ish grain powder charge weigh about 16 grams. The 50 gram calibration is closer to my usage weight than a 100 gr weight is the theory.

It might all be OCD and not really matter. It happens. All the time.

 

[Alexander-M]

I don’t believe the accuracy of the calibration weight is that critical for our application. The only time it is somewhat important is when we select a starting charge, as we need to be close to the published charge weight; but still, we usually start safely below the maximum, so a calibration weight that is bit off will not hurt.

In normal use, we calibrate our scales, weigh several charges, test them, adjust them to hopefully yield the desired SD, ED, group size, speed, etc., and then we duplicate that optimum charge. As long as we use the same calibration weight every time we reload, there would not be a problem.

However, if someone else wants to duplicate our charge weight, then it would be critical that their calibration weight and ours be the same, so they end up with the same charge.

Just my 2¢

Alex