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PTG Die blank hardness

Are die blanks harder steel than off the shelf dies. I know this sounds like a stupid question and I apologize. I thought I read of guys getting dies cut with the same as they're barrel reamer and am curious do you HAVE to purchase a separate die reamer or do some cut the dies with the chamber reamer....Again I apologize of the question makes no sense. If it doesn't please PM me with proper nomenclature and I will update.


Very Respectfully
 
For blank Dies ..You may what to talk to this guy, Very informative and friendly. http://www.newlonprecision.com
 
I have dwelled on that a while. I don't think it needs to be hardened unless you plan on using it a lot. If it wears out, then we will know . When I get a little time I plan on testing that theory. Actually hardening it its no big deal if its 4140, but I wanted to make dies out of my old barrels and I understand they will harden a little more thru the heat treating process. Maybe some die maker can shed more light on this than I.
 
From conversations with the gunsmith and others, I was kinda of the opinion that given clean (wet tumbled in SS media) and well-lubed (Imperial die wax) cases, I'd probably move on to another chamber reamer (and another sizing die) before I wear this one out. Would you disagree?

Assuming the gunsmith is willing/able to make the die, but getting it hardened is on me... how would you suggest I go about getting that done?
 
Maybe when Butch wakes up from his beauty nap, he may chime in about the details of the process. I'm guessing the die needs polished prior to meloniting.
 
I melonite all the dies that leave here. And a sizing die has to be very hard. When i started making dies i would cut one and try it- dont work. Youll pull a case head off theyre so sticky.
 
Beyond what Dusty said, I have seen pictures of brass FL sized in a unhardened die. It was ugly. I think that Meloniting has some serious potential for this application.
 
There's a number of custom knife makers in the state in which you live (one of my favorite longbow makers lives there also) that heat treat their knives. You might talk one of them into throwing your die into the mix :)
 
I see that PT&G die blanks are 4140 and they offer a heat treat formula. If your die blanks are 416 SS they will have to be hardened in a vacuum furnace or, Melonited as Butch said. Some blank makers offer blanks made from 12L14 and as far as I know, they cannot be heat treated or, Melonited.
 
dmoran said:
EddieHarren said:
If your die blanks are 416 SS they will have to be hardened in a vacuum furnace or, Melonited as Butch said.

Eddie -

Sorry to disagree some, but feel you are some what right, but also wrong, sort to speak:
Any oven/furnace can be used for 416 as long as there is no oxygen left in prior to heating the steel.
The way to deal with that in a regular heat oven is to simply place a small candle in the oven as well, when closing the door and leave it to burn a few minutes before starting the oven. The burning candle will use up the oxygen and burn out.
While advising a vacuum furnace for 416 is sound advise, it is not the only way.......

Best Regards
Donovan
Oxygen free and a total vacuum are two different environments.
 
EddieHarren said:
So, is my heat treat vendor blowin' smoke or is he correct when he says vacuum furnace?
Probably not blowin smoke, IMO. My favorite knife maker (D'Holder) uses both the vacuum furnace and differential heat treating via the quench process.
 
I would think so. It works with ATS34 and it's American twin, 440C.

Good information here: www.interalloy.com.au/ourproducts/stainless-steel/416-martenistic-stainless-steel-bar/
 

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