• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

PTG bolt vs Rem factory bolt

Better primary extraction if your talking 700 bolt.
I'd get the .062 pin tip diameter. Better pin fitment and smaller diameter should help a ton with primer cratering or blanking and likely gives a bit better ignition, in addition to better primary extraction if timed properly, of course. Not the mention the little things, like handle choice and cosmetics, like fluting. You can also choose extractor type and body diameter for better fitment in existing bolt raceway or step up and bore it true and spec body diameter based on that plus whatever clearance you want. I think fluting allows you to run a little tighter there if ya want. If your bolt has the j-lock now, you get to ditch it too. Also, if you're at the point of doing other action truing work, a lot of the bolt work will be done with the new bolt. I kept thinking of stuff and adding to my post but that's all I can think of off the top of my head. Oh, you should also have better fitment of the bolt shroud to both the bolt body and the pin and cocking piece. There are several reasons and all can be considered part of a real action blueprint and as such, is a fair part of the labor and money involved in doing it. You can also look at the money and decide you're better off in the big picture to buy a good custom action and be done with it all.
 
I'd get the .062 pin tip diameter.
And if you do that make sure you purchase the PTG BR pin for it. Just turning the tip down on your factory won't do it. The PTG BR pin has a parallel shank (factory is tapered) with an elongated pin tip. You can modify a factory pin to match but it's probably easier to get the PTG BR pin. I've posted the picture of the difference here on AS a couple of times.
 
And if you do that make sure you purchase the PTG BR pin for it. Just turning the tip down on your factory won't do it. The PTG BR pin has a parallel shank (factory is tapered) with an elongated pin tip. You can modify a factory pin to match but it's probably easier to get the PTG BR pin. I've posted the picture of the difference here on AS a couple of times.
Agreed and good point.
 
The last four rifles I've built on Rem M700 actions were all RR prefix S/N purchased as bare actions - no bolt, no trigger. I ordered PTG one-piece bolts for all four at the same time I ordered the action bodies, and got the bolts with little wait time. I always specify the mini-16 extractor & .062" firing pin hole, and buy the complete PTG striker assembly with the bolt. Not cheap, but no problems going this route.

I got tired of doing the lug cuts to allow the bolt to close; never had a problem with timing/primary extraction doing it myself, just finally decided to send that last action & PTG bolt up to LRI and let them do their tier 1 action truing & fitting the bolt. Yes, I wound up with as much money into this action/bolt combination as I'd have had in a Zermatt Origin custom action, but Chad's 5-axis truing and the bolt fitting gave me the option to have them diamond hone the action to allow for applying a CeraKote finish on bolt & action and still have smooth, no-bind operation. The primary reason I was going to send the action to LRI was that this was well after Remington had gone tits-up, and I hadn't been able to find a bolt stop & spring to use in this action, so went with LRI's custom side mounted bolt stop. Then I figured that for what dealer pricing was on the complete action truing, fitting & fluting the bolt, drilling dual lug indexing holes to fit their dual drilled recoil lug, and doing the bolt stop installation, I might as well have them do the whole job. And with the results, I have absolutely no regrets.
 
What would a new PTG bolt do for me that the factory bolt won't do?

Not a damn thing.... Just fixed a PTG bolt last week that had a stepped bolt face, but only in one corner! How in the hell do you do that?? Another one, several weeks ago, had a tapered firing pin of .062 in a .062 hole and a dead sharp corner in the back of the pin hole. Makes for a great way to mangle a firing pin and destroy it! You just can't make this stuff up!! Lol. So, my advice to you, is to save your money and run the factory bolt and be happy it functions. As the new, upgraded bolt, may cause you some serious grief and actually be a step down in quality. Who knows what's coming next to the shop, it would really take something spectacular at this point to surprise me.... Lol.
Paul
 
The principal difference is that a Remington bolt is almost certain to fit and function. I didn’t say perfectly. The PTG bolt might do neither.
 
The rifle that I am thinking of changing the bolt has a Bartlien barrel, Jewel trigger, KRG Bravo chassis and a Sightron scope. It is a 22-250 and I almost always shoot under 1/2" with 5 shot groups at 100yds. That is all the range has. When I shoot I shoot 8 5 shot groups. This week the average for the 8 groups was .36 last week it was .39. Most times I get at least 1 1/4" group. The rifle has the original Rem 700 action. Will a new action or changing the bolt help accuracy. An action is a little pricey, will a bolt alone help?
 
The rifle that I am thinking of changing the bolt has a Bartlien barrel, Jewel trigger, KRG Bravo chassis and a Sightron scope. It is a 22-250 and I almost always shoot under 1/2" with 5 shot groups at 100yds. That is all the range has. When I shoot I shoot 8 5 shot groups. This week the average for the 8 groups was .36 last week it was .39. Most times I get at least 1 1/4" group. The rifle has the original Rem 700 action. Will a new action or changing the bolt help accuracy. An action is a little pricey, will a bolt alone help?
Not likely. Assuming no problems that a new bolt cures, you don't typically see much if anything until you get even more accurate than you already are, like sub .2s with a lot of repeatability. It's the little things then. A good bbl is the heart of a rifle but the rest adds up when you're talking teeny tiny aggs. Really only one way to know unless you can see or find something off with your bolt. The smaller tip is one of the bigger reasons, especially if you crater primers.
 
The rifle that I am thinking of changing the bolt has a Bartlien barrel, Jewel trigger, KRG Bravo chassis and a Sightron scope. It is a 22-250 and I almost always shoot under 1/2" with 5 shot groups at 100yds. That is all the range has. When I shoot I shoot 8 5 shot groups. This week the average for the 8 groups was .36 last week it was .39. Most times I get at least 1 1/4" group. The rifle has the original Rem 700 action. Will a new action or changing the bolt help accuracy. An action is a little pricey, will a bolt alone help?
You are opening a can of worms with a ptg bolt. An improvement in accuracy is not likely. The changes made to fit the new bolt are likely going to prevent going back to the old bolt if you want to.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,206
Messages
2,191,326
Members
78,740
Latest member
Sandman57
Back
Top