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PTG bolt head for Savage 300 WSM

I'm looking to switch my Savage 16 (300 wsm) to a .473 bolt face. It is a CRF action so I know I will need to remove the action mounted ejector change the bolt head and add the ejector. I am trying to figure out which bolt head I need to order from PTG. The shank of the bolt head measures 0.982" long and the lugs measure 0.495" long. The only combination PTG list for this is 1.000" shank and a 0.500". Will this combination work? 0.018" seems like a fairly large amount to be a tolerance. Has anyone ever converted one of these before? Any additional concerns that I am missing?
 

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I'm looking to switch my Savage 16 (300 wsm) to a .473 bolt face. It is a CRF action so I know I will need to remove the action mounted ejector change the bolt head and add the ejector. I am trying to figure out which bolt head I need to order from PTG. The shank of the bolt head measures 0.982" long and the lugs measure 0.495" long. The only combination PTG list for this is 1.000" shank and a 0.500". Will this combination work? 0.018" seems like a fairly large amount to be a tolerance. Has anyone ever converted one of these before? Any additional concerns that I am missing?
I'll look at mine tomorrow and let you know what I did I think I have one I can send you also.
 
I'm looking to switch my Savage 16 (300 wsm) to a .473 bolt face. It is a CRF action so I know I will need to remove the action mounted ejector change the bolt head and add the ejector. I am trying to figure out which bolt head I need to order from PTG. The shank of the bolt head measures 0.982" long and the lugs measure 0.495" long. The only combination PTG list for this is 1.000" shank and a 0.500". Will this combination work? 0.018" seems like a fairly large amount to be a tolerance. Has anyone ever converted one of these before? Any additional concerns that I am missing?
all you have to do is headspace again, take the barrel loose, changeout your bolthead and headspace, take a fired case, resize add a pc of scotch tape headspace and your good to go
 
the resized case with tape will set your headspace, or you can resize .002 longer and use the case as a nogo then you will have the .002 bump you might say, I switch barrels on m,y sav all the time but I would not go with just adding the bolthead and hope for a good fit, also you want to ease the edges on the ptg bolthead they are sharp take a stone or fine file and break the edges like the savage, the savage has no sharp edges on the lugs
 
you have to get short or long action bolthead if your action is short you need the short action bolthead, the long action bolthead is longer, by a bit
 
I looked at ptg bolts you need the standard short or long action bolthead for 75.00 the other is custom, I think the newer savage actions all come with a small dia firing pin but don't quote me on that
 
The only bolt heads I have are the short mag ones so no help there
Where you planning on changing to a plunger ejector or trying to stay with the mechanical?
Do you have a pic of the bolt body and firing pin?

I think you can just get the standard short action bolt head and a plunger ejector the spring, pin for it then you may need to adjust the firing pin protusion/length and head space.
 
My extra firing pin diameter is .0675 and the hole in the bolt head is right there also so it's a nice fit maybe .0005-.0010 clearance so if your firing pin is same you should be good
 
Oh I have used there bolt body's and happy with them. .700 body tightened the clearance up nice and didn't need to ream the action.
Measure your raceway to make sure you have a .002-.003 clearance with the bolt body diameter if you go with one of there bolt body's and don't plan to ream the action.
 
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If you get the custom bolt head you can get the lug size larger like the Magnum one .500
That may help you avoid having to change firing pin length
 
A bolt I did for my 260 AI
With straight fluting I dont think they do straight anymoreIMG_20220204_083006~2.jpg
 

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The only bolt heads I have are the short mag ones so no help there
Where you planning on changing to a plunger ejector or trying to stay with the mechanical?
Do you have a pic of the bolt body and firing pin?

I think you can just get the standard short action bolt head and a plunger ejector the spring, pin for it then you may need to adjust the firing pin protusion/length and head space.
I am removing the mechanical ejection. Don't I need to keep the lug size the same as the original bolt? If that's the case I will need a long action bolt head (0.500") with a short action shank( 1.0"). Even then my shank falls short of the Short actions 1.0" shank. I did not know if this was in the allowable tolerance or if it is shorter than standard.
 
you have to get short or long action bolthead if your action is short you need the short action bolthead, the long action bolthead is longer, by a bit
From what I measure my bolt head has a long action lug size (0.500) rather than the 0.440 short action. The shank measures 0.982" which is just under the 1.0" shank for a short action. This is a short action gun. I assume I need to keep the lugs and shank the same as the original. Am I thinking correctly? I guess the question was if the 0.018" difference on the shank length would cause an issue.
 
From what I measure my bolt head has a long action lug size (0.500) rather than the 0.440 short action. The shank measures 0.982" which is just under the 1.0" shank for a short action. This is a short action gun. I assume I need to keep the lugs and shank the same as the original. Am I thinking correctly? I guess the question was if the 0.018" difference on the shank length would cause an issue.
The closest you can get to that bolt head with what PT&G offer is in the custom offerings there you can order a short action length with a lug size of .5 the shank size would be the 1.0" then if your shank is .982 then you may have to adjust your firing pin length so you have enough protrusion.

If you want a Standard .308 bolt face (.472) then you can get away with the standard bolt face for less money but you will need to adjust firing pin length,there are YouTube vids on doing that also.

If your action has the large shank barrel threads
I'm still pretty sure you have room to work with the standard bolt head.
does your firing pin look like this. This is adjustable for length of protrusion I think the old ones are also but not sure because I have never seen one in person even with a old 243 we got once. 16440055109288019407972287393735.jpg
 
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Stick the firing pin through the hole and measure how much sticks out of bolt face (firing pin protrusion) that is the number you will want to duplicate. Unless that number is to long or short then you will want to make it right. This is what I have learned
The disclaimer is you take all responsibility using any of this info I have given.
 
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From what I measure my bolt head has a long action lug size (0.500) rather than the 0.440 short action. The shank measures 0.982" which is just under the 1.0" shank for a short action. This is a short action gun. I assume I need to keep the lugs and shank the same as the original. Am I thinking correctly? I guess the question was if the 0.018" difference on the shank length would cause an issue.
if you have a short action go with the short action head, all should be the same, a few thou on the fp won't hurt you, the shank matters somewhat but go SA to SA standard and you will be good, I used a PTG bolt once but I got a short action head for a long action, I drilled it out for the pin, because I just started and didn't know my rear from a pencil, but make sure you soften the edges on the ptg bolt or it will dig into your receiver
 

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