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PT&G, M16 Extractor Jig?

I want to buy a jig for M700, M16 extractor conversions- but can't figure out what the difference is between these two:


At first I thought it was just including the cutters and extractor, but the jigs themselves are different. The bottom one looks to have hardened bushings that aren't present in the top one.
Anyone use either of these?
 
I want to buy a jig for M700, M16 extractor conversions- but can't figure out what the difference is between these two:


At first I thought it was just including the cutters and extractor, but the jigs themselves are different. The bottom one looks to have hardened bushings that aren't present in the top one.
Anyone use either of these?
It looks to me like they are the same jigs except one is a kit that comes with everything you need. PTG has old ads up a lot of the time. Don't expect the "Ditzy Chicks" In the front office to give you the right stuff, My orders have been screwed up several times, They don't have any idea what the stuff is or what it does so they grab something off the shelf that's wrong. The last time was a range rod I ordered for a .32 caliber rifle .321 diameter, They sent me .32 caliber pistol rod .310 diameter. You are given a choice with a drop down box, And I chose rifle, They sent me the wrong one. This has happened with other range rods and headspace gauges, 7 mos to get a reamer, The girls in the office are quite rude also. Anyway good luck.

I hope you don't order the one with everything and they send you the one with nothing but the jig.
 
I would check out the one that Brownells carries. Same as the one in the article above. I have a brand new one I am getting ready to list for sale.
Paul
 
First place I checked was Brownell's (which is also the same jig in the Rifleshooter video), out of stock and no backorder. Might be out of production, I'll call them.


Doesn't look too hard with some simple tooling you can build in the shop.
No tilting head on my mill, and I hate taking the Kurt out of tram to cut angles and having to re-tram it, or the pain of using a sine fixture plate.
Call me lazy (and busy). I usually prefer to buy tooling unless it's super quick to machine or not available commercially. Often the time I'd need to spend machining would cost me more than buying...
 
If I recall, that "jig" just clocks the lugs, the bolt is still indicated to centerline. I made jig of my own that would make contact on both lugs with that I could reference off the mill table. Worked fine.
 
First place I checked was Brownell's (which is also the same jig in the Rifleshooter video), out of stock and no backorder. Might be out of production, I'll call them.


No tilting head on my mill, and I hate taking the Kurt out of tram to cut angles and having to re-tram it, or the pain of using a sine fixture plate.
Call me lazy (and busy). I usually prefer to buy tooling unless it's super quick to machine or not available commercially. Often the time I'd need to spend machining would cost me more than buying...
I keep my good vise on the table 1/3rd of the way from the other end. That way i have 2/3 of my table i can use for everything that doesnt have to be in a precise vise. Actually ive never had my vise in the middle, it works out better for pretty much everything. Barrel channels end up right in the middle instead of close to an end
 
I keep my good vise on the table 1/3rd of the way from the other end. That way i have 2/3 of my table i can use for everything that doesnt have to be in a precise vise. Actually ive never had my vise in the middle, it works out better for pretty much everything. Barrel channels end up right in the middle instead of close to an end

I heard some advice to keep it on one end, and move it back and forth every so often, to keep a single spot from wearing in your ways.

I tried that with my 833TV but the bed has a little runout/slop in the ends anyway... so I keep my centered and just fight with aligning it when it needs to be. :/
 
It takes time. If I can avoid doing it, I'm going to avoid doing it.
how long? 5, maybe 10 minutes!? I use my 'centering', co-axial indicator in a collet, or the 3/8 tool holder if I'm gonna' use a cutter with a 3/8" shank. I check it before I use it every time. Need absolute precision? Make a set of soft jaws and cut 'um before use. They'll be as straight as your machine will allow. Tramming can take a bit longer. Several methods can be employed. A dedicated tramming tool is quickest, for me anyway.
 
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I can do it faster, but I'd need to also make a video of it. Har Har.

The indicating isn't a big deal. I also keep the bottom oiled... so If I move it, I need to stone the mill, move the vice and stone it, wipe it, oil it, put it back, blah blah blah. It's 10 minutes of moving around an 80lb vice... all i'm sayin is if I can work around it, I will.
 

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