proper way to check trigger pull?

[Chiquita]

My trigger is two stage and lowest advertised is 8OZ on the 2nd stage. Please let me know if my process is at fault, because I keep getting 1lb+ consistently on the 2nd stage.

I set my trigger gauge, pull the first stage to the wall and keep pulling until it breaks at 1lb+ I tried this multiple times with electronic and mechanical gauge, same result.

I take slack off the first stage with a pencil, the trigger gauge is only pulling on the 2nd stage (in other words the 1st stage was not pulled by the trigger gauge). Again, same 1lb+ pull weight.

Is there anything wrong in my process? I pull my gauges consistently and put it directly on the center of the trigger. I have adjusted the screw as far as I can.

TIA

 

[Rocketvapor]

What trigger?
In order to pull thru the 2nd stage, sounds like one pound (+) of force is needed.
Try your trigger gauge real slow.
Note force as you pull first stage, and then the bump up to second stage.
Record first stage, then total force.

Moving the trigger with the pencil then pulling into the second stage with the pull gauge is taking the force off the pencil and putting it all on the pull gauge.

 

[Chiquita]

What trigger?
In order to pull thru the 2nd stage, sounds like one pound (+) of force is needed.
Try your trigger gauge real slow.
Note force as you pull first stage, and then the bump up to second stage.
Record first stage, then total force.

Moving the trigger with the pencil then pulling into the second stage with the pull gauge is taking the force off the pencil and putting it all on the pull gauge.

I would rather not name the trigger. I pull slowly and consistently.

I don't understand your last comment.

 

[Rocketvapor]

First stage is likely the disconnector spring.
First stage is likely the trigger spring.
You must keep that force on the trigger, even to the end, not just move thru it and expect it to disappear when you hit the second stage.
When you encounter the 2nd stage you must maintain the 1st stage spring force in addition to the sear/disconnector trip force.
Try the pull gauge and watch the force climb thru the 1st stage.
When you hit the second stage you must ADD the two forces together.

I'll give you an EXAGGERATED example.
Say you have a 10 pound first stage, and an additional 8oz second stage
What would be TOTAL trigger pull?
OR
Say you have a 8oz first stage, and an additional 10 pound second stage.
What would the TOTAL pull be?
OR
A two pound first stage and an additional 2 pound second stage?

 

[Rocketvapor]

Sounds like this is hard to explain.
Sorry .
If the trigger is like most 2 stage triggers you will be pulling against the first stage spring all the way thru until the trigger fires. When you hit the second stage shelf, you ADD MORE FORCE to the first stage to get total pull.

(somehow that doesn't sound like a better explanation )

 

[CJ6]

If you have a 10 Oz. 1st stage and a 10 Oz 2nd stage you're actually pulling 20 Oz through.

 

[Chiquita]

If I pull through my first stage then through the 2nd stage, my gauge will register when the trigger breaks. It is not additive of the first & 2nd.

 

[jds holler]

AND -- It makes a difference where you put the hook of your trigger gauge on the trigger, and the direction that you pull it.

I usually pull the trigger with my finger and determine just where the greatest pressure is located on my finger and in which direction my finger is pulling the trigger. On a curved trigger it is often at a downward angle instead of straight back toward the butt-stock. Try a few different rifles and you'll see what I mean.

Changing the angle will often mean a 8 oz to 1lb different reading than straight back. jd

 

[Rank Amateur]

If I pull through my first stage then through the 2nd stage, my gauge will register when the trigger breaks. It is not additive of the first & 2nd.

I believe it is additive. At the end of your first stage pull you reach a barrier caused by additional resistance (the extra 8 oz advertised for your trigger). You have to add that additional 8 oz to get the trigger to break. Your gauge will measure the total force needed to break the trigger which will be the 8+ oz for the first stage plus the 8 oz of the second stage, yielding a 16+ oz measured trigger pull value.

 

[Rocketvapor]

There are many types of trigger mechanisms out there.
For the most common ones the Trigger Spring sets up the first stage force.
Here is the Larue MBT-2S

And the SCHMID INSIDE marketed under many brand names. Note the little "S"


From the start of trigger pull to the end, the trigger spring has to be overcome.
That force is there, always. Trip the trigger and measure spring force to hold the trigger back.
Your trigger may be different though. Sounds like it might be an adjustable Drop-In.
Maybe with rollers, bearings, more parts, magnets, or electricity

The second stage of the triggers shown starts when the disconnector is pushed back allowing the hammer to slide out from the trigger hook.
Unless your trigger is made differently, the Trigger Spring Force is always there. Start to Finish.
First stage is set by Trigger Spring, second stage is the Disconnector Spring.
Total pull is BOTH.
Unless we know more about YOUR Trigger Mechanism that's about all the troubleshooting help we can offer.

JD: to accurately measure trigger pull the finger/gauge tension line should be 90 degrees to the line from the trigger pin to contact point with the trigger @ trip position. An individual's trigger pull can be different if not pulled straight.

 

[243winxb]

Add weight till the hammer falls. That is the trigger weight.

Homemade-

The coat hanger & tin were weighed. The lead bars are 1 pound each. The 240 gr bullets are added to the tin, till the hammer drops.
All components must be the true exact weight.
Have measured triggers as light as 9 oz.

Buy it-
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cle...nra-official-universal-trigger-weight-system/

 

[Rocketvapor]

@243winxb
We are probably talking about a trigger application that does not have a minimum legal pull weight, but your method can be very very accurate for sure.
Here's my wife's trigger, the dreaded Savage AccuTrigger, with blade force set @ 1.7oz, and TOTAL pull of 7oz.

 

[Chiquita]

What trigger?
In order to pull thru the 2nd stage, sounds like one pound (+) of force is needed.
Try your trigger gauge real slow.
Note force as you pull first stage, and then the bump up to second stage.
Record first stage, then total force.

Moving the trigger with the pencil then pulling into the second stage with the pull gauge is taking the force off the pencil and putting it all on the pull gauge.

When I am taking the slack off the first stage by a pencil, am I not essentially making the trigger a single stage trigger?

 

[DaWhit]

My interpretation, you pick up a 1lb paint can with your left hand, you switch it to your right, it is still a 1lb can.
The spring is already under pressure, it doesn’t loose pressure just because you hit the wall for the second stage.

 

[Tim Slater]

When I am taking the slack off the first stage by a pencil, am I not essentially making the trigger a single stage trigger?

In terms of the movement yes, but you are still holding the weight of the first stage. If you relaxed your finger the trigger resets, rather than staying at the break point.

 

[Chiquita]

Thank you everyone. My bulb turned on.

 

[243winxb]

a trigger application that does not have a minimum legal pull weight

Correct. 50 meter pistol, formerly and unofficially still often called Free Pistol, is one of the ISSF shooting events.
I used a T/C Contender with the 9 oz trigger, different grip. The trigger return spring was replaced . Nothing else.

The Remington 40X had a 2oz trigger option. New out of the box, it would not stay cocked when roughly closing on an empty chamber.
The customer never replied if it was a problem or not.

Light triggers, very dangerous, unless in expert hands.