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Problems using a Whidden Hydroforming 6 Dasher Die.

Using a Whidden 6 Dasher Hydroforming die and I am having some dramas with it. I'm using brand new Lapua 6 BR brass. I'm inserting a used primer (upside down) to prevent water contamination. Using demineralised water. After every 3 to 5 cases the plunger is severely marked on the stoke end. It looks like galling to me. The die is brand new, flushed clean with shellite after every use.

There is no way there is any contamination getting into the die but I am getting these bad galling marks. After 3-5 cases I have to use a drill bit as a rod to push the ram back out the top of the die and then chuck up the ram in drill press and use some 1200 sandpaper to smooth it out again. After forming 100 cases the tolerance between the ram and guide are so loose its not sealing properly and just making a watery mess around my reloading bench. I have changed to spare ram supplied and after another 100 cases its buggered now too.

Am I doing something wrong? Is this a design flaw? Its driving me mad. Hoping the brains trust here might have an answer.Whidden die 1.JPG Whidden die 2.JPG Whidden die 3.JPG Whidden die 4.JPG
 
Never had a problem but I use a Hornady. Could it be coming from the case mouths or the die? Do the cases show galling inside the necks after hydroforming? Matt
 
Never had a problem but I use a Hornady. Could it be coming from the case mouths or the die? Do the cases show galling inside the necks after hydroforming? Matt
No the die is clean and the cases brand new. No galling on the case necks but the whidden plunger/ram doesnt go inside the case like the Hornady die.
 
The only thing I can tell you is that I tried a hydroforming die and I found it to be less than ideal. I had similar issues (not galling) but mine was attributed to the fact that I could not hit the ram rod perfectly center each time and was slowly bending the rod over time. And after you hydroform, you still need to fire it to get the case fully blown out to the right dimensions. So why not simply fireform with a bullet and false shoulder method? I tried COW as well and the shoulders still don't get blown out consistently.
 
I've used mine successfully and one key is you must hit the plunger straight down. If there is any angle to your strike you'll have the problem you're describing. It take a little practice. One tip I can pass along is to fill the case with water or what ever you choose to use ( I tried alcohol, but that dried everything out way too much. My press started rusting immediately), run the case up into the die, then use a large syringe, ketchup bottle, etc. to fill the die chamber up near the top. Then you can put the plunger in a bit and the case will be completely full of liquid. I got a much better formed case that way.
 
Don't be afraid to put some lube on that piece that's giving you trouble.

I've never used a whidden but have used Hornady and now using another brand with a lot tighter tolerances. I use STP oil treatment every few rounds on it.

When I have fireformed with bullets, I still need to shoot them again before the case is formed like it needs to be. I shoot my competition load in Hydro formed brass and after that first firing, they are ready to go. I'll use the hydro formed cases for sighters and such to save some barrel wear. I hydroform in the winter when I can't do anything else.

A lot of these questions come up on the weekends when people are using their shiny new toys. It's pretty hard to get ahold of most of these companies on the weekend.
 
Don't be afraid to put some lube on that piece that's giving you trouble.

I've never used a whidden but have used Hornady and now using another brand with a lot tighter tolerances. I use STP oil treatment every few rounds on it.

When I have fireformed with bullets, I still need to shoot them again before the case is formed like it needs to be. I shoot my competition load in Hydro formed brass and after that first firing, they are ready to go. I'll use the hydro formed cases for sighters and such to save some barrel wear. I hydroform in the winter when I can't do anything else.

A lot of these questions come up on the weekends when people are using their shiny new toys. It's pretty hard to get ahold of most of these companies on the weekend.



How about a little patience.
 
I would think a little lube may prevent "galling".. I guess I will find out since I have a Whidden Dasher Forming die.. Only if I had some fired primers...


Ray
 
Thanks for the help guys. Sorry if Ive ruffled a feather somewhere. I don't like to annoy a business if its something I can solve using the forums, after all isn't that one of the reasons we use them. I had tried googling an answer and looking on the companies website prior to posting with no success.
 
I had a similar problem but with the o ring getting damaged after about 10 cases and not sealing, finally figured out the vent hole at the top of the cylinder that releases excess water was chipping the o-ring, i soldered it up which sorted the problem.Could be your problem? worth a look.
cheers pete
 
dont forget that you can do it with shotgun powder and toilet paper (NO BULLET) and (NO COW or co co wheats ),,,,no muss no fuss,,,Roger
 
The pics of your plunger are different from mine ? I got the new style plunger with 2x o rings at the base end.. did 100 cases and no problems. Used my load I worked from load testing and shot in a comp to finish off and saw no difference in accuracy from my other loads..
 
I've have one for 280ai. It works well. I keep size 008 o-rings on hand and swap them out when the fit gets loose. That helped mine a lot. I also use 90% alcohol. Most of the mess evaporates away. Customer support is incredible at Whidden. Give them a call.
 

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