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Problem Solved - CZ Flyers

Problem solved - I think - I hope - regarding my first shot flyers from my CZ 452.

I recleaned the barrel with JB Paste then Shooter's Choice Lead remover. Shot six consecutive 20 shot groups from sand bags over 3 days and clean the barrel with Hoppe's No. 9, patch cleaning only, between each set of 20 shot groups. All groups shot with CCI standard velocity ammo.

Results: first shot of each group cut a one inch circle at 50 yards and in most cases was touching the others shots which was my goal for a hunting rifle using relatively in expensive ammo.

Apparently, with this rifle, I have to clean the barrel to avoid these flyers. Where I went wrong in the past was that I believed that a 22 rimfire barrel should not be cleaned since it adversey affects accuracy or wasn't necessary. This was the experience I had with several of my 22 rimfire handguns that I used for 30 years in competition. I normally only cleaned them once a year when I put them away for a season. Never experienced any first shot flyers - except on rare ocassions - a "squib" load which happens with 22 ammo.

I can't claim credit for this breakthough. First, one of the member on this website directed me to Rimfire Central where they decribed the same probelm I was having. I implemented their remedy (which is quite time consuming) and it temporarily corrected the problem but it soon appeared after firing approximately 100 rounds over a period of a couple of weeks without cleaning the barrel. I was about to give up when I ran into a fellow shooter who had had the same problem with a CZ. He advised me to reclean the barrel to remove all built up lead then clean with Hoppe's after each firing session. Bingo - the problem disappear.

He claimed that the CZ bores are very tight and they quickly accumulate lead in the throat area. The reason for the extreme flyer on a cold fouled barrel was the first shot was needed to loosen the accumulated lead once the built up reached the critical point and hardened. He claimed the key to avoid flyers was to keep lead from building up in the throat. In his rifle he determined that it was approximately 70 rounds. After that, if he allowed the barrel to cold for several hours the next shot would go wild then the other shots would be fine. I don't know if what he said is technically accurate but using this method I seemed to have corrected the problem for my applications.

Now I feel reasonable confident that my first shot will go where I aim it if I do my part.
 
K22,
Glad to see you've cured what bugs you. And please don't take this in a negative sense. But what's up with this "first shot" fascination that I keep seeing folks post here and on other blogs? I mean we shoot sighters and fowlers not only to check the POI, but to acclimate the barrel to temperature, general conditions and to get ourselves set comfortably to shoot a session or competition. So why do people even worry about the few 1 - 5 shots when warming up? I always sit down to shoot with a clean barrel/rifle and frankly have never shot worrying about whether the first shot was 10X center or 1" out. It strikes me once your barrel is warmed up is where you want to be concerned on how well or tight your groups are. Just curious and not trying to be a jerk. Thx!
 
Shynloco said:
K22,
But what's up with this "first shot" fascination that I keep seeing folks post here and on other blogs? Just curious and not trying to be a jerk. Thx!

To solve your curiousity let me explain the world I'm coming from - I have or maybe I should say I'm cursed with a hunter's mentality meaining I demand reliability from my firearms. I'm a long time centerfire varmint hunter that is accustom to first shot cold barrel accuracy. Also, I'm a real novice when it comes to rimfire rifles - haven't shot them since I was a kid - some 40 years ago. I have several really great hunting opportunites ideally suited for a rimfire rifle so I purchased the CZ 452. So it follows that "warmup shots" are not something I desire or consider relevant to my world.

On advice of a competitive target shooter backed up by some research I did, I was not cleaning the barrel so as not to degrade accuracy once the barrel was "seaoned". I found this to be basically true, my rifle shot very well from a fouled barrel after the first or second shot. However the first shot was always a flyer - when I say flyer I mean extreme - 4 to 5" from a one inch bull.

I became extremely frustrated trying to figure this out - cleaning - not cleaning - different ammo - etc. Nothing worked basically because the throat was so fouled with hardened lead at least that's what Rimfire Central claims can happen. Will elaborate if you're interested.

So far, my new procedure is working very well - the best part is that it's relatively simple and it meets my needs exactly. I love hitting that one inch dot a fifty yards every time if I do my part.
 
K22,
Thx for the explanation. Makes sense for your needs and use of the rifle. I guess since I only shoot targets these days and no longer hunt (legs ain't what they were at one time due to aging), I made the assumption (always a bad idea) that others were also doing strictly target shooting. And I know there are different schools of thought on .22's when it comes to cleaning barrels. But I've found all my .22's (and I have 4 of them) all shoot much more accurately when the barrels are "relatively" clean which is why I run one wet patch followed by three dry patches through my barrels each time I go to shoot them. In fact, I've read in books by some very knowledegable competitors that a .22 barrel should be cleaned whenever changing from one ammo to another. And just to show how differently people think about cleaning a .22 barrel, I shoot in local competitions with some friends. Only one out of four of them don't clean their barrels. He shoot a Martini and usually scores in the top three out of the entire group of 10 - 15 shooters. Everybody else cleans their barrel. Guess like you've done, gotta know your hardware! Thx again.
 
Great K22, I'm glad to hear and to read what you did to fix your flyer issues. I am going to copy paste your fix and save it to try when I get a chance. Sorry if any of my opinions offended you, we are all family in our quest to enjoy this hobby.
Dave T
 
Dave T,

No offense taken.

Here's the details of the procedure I used:

Step 1: Remove all build up lead from the throat - Clean the barrel with Hoppe's then use JB Bore Paste. Removed the JB with Hoppe's then applied Shooter's Choice Lead Remover with a brush. The bore should be free of all lead build up and shiny in appearance. This needs only to be done initially.

Step 2: Maintenance - After each shooting session, I run a patch saturated with Hoppe's No. 9 down the bore to remove gross fouling then work a clean patch with Hoppe's No. 9 back and forth 10 times concentrating on the throat area. I push another saturated patch down the bore, let stand for 30 to 45 mintues then dry patch. Bore should be shiny with no evidence of fouling or lead build up.

Step 3: Seasoning the bore - This is unconventional but I've been doing for over twenty years with my centerfire rifles. I found that it give me a cold / clean barrel first shot accurate. I don't know why it works but it does so I tried with my 22 and it works also. After Step 2 I run a patch saturated with WD40 down the bore. I press the patch between a paper towel to dry it but leave some residue on it then push it down the bore. I repeat this two times to remove any excess WD 40. This step removes any residual Hoppe's, provides rust protection, but most importantly give me an accurate first shot.
 
K22, I am a longtime rimfire shooter, but not a knowledgeable one. Thanks for the WD-40 tip. I'll try it.

I also hunt with a cold clean bore. I collect first shot hits at the range and compare them or overlay them to look for consistent placement of the 1st shot. I read everything I can find about rimfire target shooting, but apply their findings to getting consistent cold clean bore shot placement for hunting.

Thanks to Shynloco also. I always check his posts.

Tom
 
TRECustom,

Went out this morning with my CZ, first shot was near dead center at 50 yards. Next nine shots covered a 1 inch dot. I won't win any matches with that but it's exactly what I need and want from my 22 hunting rifle, reliable and prediable shots.

If you use my WD 40 "seasoning" method, make sure that you leave only a trace amount of WD 40 in the bore. I accomplish this by running the WD 40 saturated patch through the bore several times, drying with a paper towel between each pass. Also, make sure you wipe the cleaning rod between passes to remove any WD that accumulated on the rod.
 
You might want to try this with Kroil instead of wd40. In fact, Kroil is all I use for regular rimfire cleaning and it has been exceptional. Soak a really fouled bore with Kroil for a few days and you will be amazed at the ammount of crapola that exits the muzzle when a dry patch is run through the bore. It seems that Kroil has the ability to penetrate the fouling and get between the fouling and the bore. Best stuff I have on the bench. gary
 
Hammer47, I have read several threads where people were using Kroil to clean centerfires. All had the same comment. It gets under fouling and lifts it so it can be brushed or patched out. I got a can of it several months ago but only recently tried it on a SKS rifle that had been shot with corrosive ammo and hadn't been cleaned. After cleaning with black powder solvent and drying, I followed with Kroil for preservation. The dry patches did bring out a little crap after the black powder solvent cleaning. I had asked the owner to check the rifle in a couple of days to see if any rust had come back. It had not.

When the weather gets cooler, I'm going to shoot some black powder rifle and pistol. After cleaning them I will try the Kroil as a preservative..

Makes sense it would work on rimfires too.

Tom
 
Hi , I used to shoot benchrest rimfire . I am a hunter also , I understand your need for cold barrel accuracy . The Kroi loil is what I have always used and sometimes Pro Shot One step , it's good stuff . Seems everyone has a different opion about rimfire cleaning , You mentiond throat crap was a concern . A fellow I used to shoot with is considered a top contender in the rimfire game used to clean his throat only . He seemed to have it worked out to the correct depth of cleaning without using a rod stop . But a suggestion here is to get you a 22 pro shot rod a a rod stop along with bore guide . seat your bore guide and then set your rod stop ay different depths till you find the magic depth leaving the rest of your barrel seasoned . Just a suggestion , I have a CZ Luper Lux and Scout , I simply clean with Kroil or Pro shot one step all the way through and have no problem about where the first bullet is going . Good luck , Kenneth
 
Aintright,

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to try the Kroil Oil treatment. So far my cleaning program has worked on my CZ. I just run a patch of Hoppe's No. 9 down the barrel after each shooting session. Let is sit for 1/2 hour or so then swab it out with a dry patch followed by a patch with WD 40. It seems to have eliminated my first shot flyers.
 
HI K22 , it was a suggestion off the top of my head which apparently wasn't very well thought out . I remembered the reason this didn't pan out , when I tried it , the Pro Shot rod was to large and rubbed the ejector or something in the bottom of the action . My memory is a mess sometimes , health issues . Thought I'd set the record straight before someone scraped thier rod up as I did trying the Pro Shot rod in a CZ 22 . You need a smaller diameter rod , and may have to use an electrical Kerny or something for a rod stop . I'm not sure the Pro Shot will work on a smaller rod . Kenneth
 
Aintright:

I use a Sinclair 20 caliber stainless rod for my CZ with a Sinclair rod guide. When I first got the rifle I ruined an expensive 22 caliber Dewey Coated Rod trying to run it through the CZ barrel. I couldn't understand what was wrong so I called the Manufacturer and was told that rifles are bored tight and I should use either a 17 or 20 cal rod. It would have been nice if that was in the instruction manual with rifle!
 

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