Problem Extracting a live round

[Kyle87]

Hey guys I just got my slr back from the smith and have been messing with it today and have come up with a problem. I made up a few dumbing rounds just to check the function with my AI mags. My problem is when I chamber a round and don't fire release the trigger I can extract the round. The bolt comes back and the round stays in the chamber. A few time if a slam the bolt closed hard it will grab the round. When I fire the rifle with a dummy round it extracts the round everytime. Can this just be a simple extractor replacement or could some tolerances have been screwed up when the action action was trued and bolt face squared?

 

[Chfcemerson]

You need to have your headspace checked

 

[Zero333]

Your headspace could be good and your brass could of been sized too much. either or.

 

[savagedasher]

Your headspace could be good and your brass could of been sized too much. either or.

Head space or extractor not working properly . Larry

 

[Kyle87]

I just talked to my smith. He said the brass may need sized to my chamber. After a firing to let him know.

 

[stacy]

IS YOUR SEATING DEPTH BEEN DETERMMED IS THE OAL CORRECT !

 

[Kyle87]

Yes I used the method that removed your firing pin and ejector and continue to seat your bullet in small increments til your bolt doesn't click when opened. My rounds are 20 thou off that

 

[Ggmac]

Just a heads up , if an ar or non spring loaded firing pin , be careful letting the bolt slam on a live CHAMBERED round .

 

[billlarson]

Just a heads up , if an ar or non spring loaded firing pin , be careful letting the bolt slam on a live CHAMBERED round .

AMAN........... DO NOT DO IT.......!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Kyle87]

They are dummy rounds no primer or powder but same dimensions as a live round

 

[XTR]

This is a 6SLR. This is a wildcat, you don't buy brass for it. He's making the brass pushing the shoulder back on 243 brass. Headspace is whatever you want it to be, or whatever it turns out to be as the case may be.

My bet is that you are pushing the shoulder way too far back on the 243s, the round is then sliding too far into the chamber, you are probably 20 thou or more too far back on the shoulder. You need to fire form some of your brass.

Make up a some rounds with moderate loads, seat the bullet long so it jams hard, then fire them and measure the shoulder, then size some new cases to that shoulder measurement and fire them. While you are at it make up some with the formed brass sized with out bumping the shoulder and shoot them too. Then measure the shoulder on both, I'm betting that they will be really close to the final shoulder measurement you want. You want your die to push the shoulder back about .002 more than the measurement on your fired brass. Just be aware it may take a couple of firings to get the brass to the final size. One you get things set up there is nothing to it, you size and load. It's no different than setting the shoulder bump on your 308, except you have to get it right on the new brass the first time.

I hope you haven't sized all your brass yet. If you have you have a lot of fire forming to do, which totally negates one of the advantages of the 6SLR. Once you get that measurement you can size some more brass and see how it works.

 

[Kyle87]

You are exactly right I sized a few brass (40) to do some initial load testing. Sized them and they chambered great. What I didn't know was that I oversized them just like you said. After the first firing they all extract fine. Lesson learned(first wildcat).

 

[XTR]

Glad you worked it out.

The reason you have to jam the bullets hard is so you don't stretch the webbing, you want the bullet to keep the base hard up to the boltface. If you don't do it that way the firing pin strike will drive the case forward, then when the powder goes off the sides expand and grab the chamber and the web stretches as the base moves back to the bolt face, resulting in early brass failure due to case head separation.