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Primer not firing ?

Ok so this has happened a few times more than I would like to see. I use 21st century hand primer tool and seat until I feel it touch then squeeze a little more. Brass is FL sized and shoulders bumped 1 thous. Bullet seated -16 off of JAM

N140 and Wolf LR primers. Savage Target Action

A few times they will not go off the first time I pull trigger but if I re chamber they will fire. But sometimes they will not go bang no matter what

This has happened 3 times in 60 rounds. And this happened with some CCI200 primers that I use to use. But I thought it was bad primes on CCI part


Any ideas would be helpful
 
Since it's a Savage, and you guy's are always switching barrels, are you SURE it is H/S correctly? Or... are those 3 FTF cases the initial cases you used to set the die and neglected to toss them because the shoulder was set back too far ?
 
sounds to me like a headspace issue (most likely). Since there is some room in the headspace when you pull the trigger the firing pin falls and pushes the case forward which prohibits the tension needed to engage the primer causing ignition
 
Yes headspace was set using piece of scotch tape over go gauge. And I check every case for proper shoulder bump. Unless primer tool is giving me false feel of touching the bottom of pocket....

I think I have checked everything I know how to.
 
I might have missed it but are the primers indented at all or clean?
Any mark at all from the firing pin is where I am going.
 
I have had this happen to me on a target action that I had done some modifications to regarding bolt lift and trying to reduce some of the effort required.

If you have done any modification to the bolt particularly anything to do with adding either a thrust washer between the bolt screw and the cocking piece or some of the other mods , then I would double check that your installed height is correct for the spring 1.900" should be correct. Along with making sure that the shims used between the bolt screw and bolt correlate with the thickness of the bearing used.

I know I have played with using shims between the bolt screw and the bolt handle in conjunction with lengthening the installed height of the main spring and although it did reduce bolt lift effort it did induce another problem and that was inconsistent ignition.

Check pin protrusion , I normally set mine to .040" protrusion. And again short action spring installed height is 1.900" .
 
I'm with LHSMITH in failure to toss the three cases used ..well..... as he said.

The 57 out of 60 that fired make me think this is the culprit.
 
This die has been set and used for over 1000 rounds. Match brass is on 4th loading and load work brass on its 7th. So has been long time since die was set up

No mods done to this bolt
 
savageshooter86 said:
Yes headspace was set using piece of scotch tape over go gauge. And I check every case for proper shoulder bump. Unless primer tool is giving me false feel of touching the bottom of pocket....

I think I have checked everything I know how to.
Would still like to see HS number of fired round vs. loaded rounds that have been shoulder bumped.
 
Its is the Wolf and CCI primers. They have the thickest and toughest cups on the market. If you don't seat them with a little crush or you have an action with a weak hit you will get hangfires and misfires. I can't use CCI primers in my BATS because of this. I use Federal and never have any misfires. Matt
 
I have fire formed brass that was .008 -.010" short of final datum for the chamber with no misfire issues but the big difference would be the bullets were jammed..
I have seen where the directional lock washer used in the bolt assembly for the spring was not seated correctly and it allowed the spring to turn and eventually change the installed height along with pin protrusion... when the lock washer is positioned correctly the pin depth cannot be adjusted without compressing the spring and moving the washer away from the pin stop.
 
I'm thinking weak spring or firing pin protrusion or combination. Primers look good to go

Anyone offer springs for Savages that might be stronger than the factory ones? Or just get another factory one?
 
Thanks Andrew – just a little nervous when you didn’t give any actual numbers but you look GTG.

Matt, I use only Wolf (SRP) and Tula (LRP) exclusively in all my guns and have fired many thousands but never had a problem with them although I have heard of other saying the same thing about their thickness.

Can't be missing anvil as they fire on second hit.
 

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