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Preventing Ring Marks

Dr.J

Silver $$ Contributor
I recently purchased a Winchester/Miroku in 6,5 creedmoor with a Talley base and rings (vertical split rings) to mount a Leupold 6.5-20x scope. What is the best way to prevent ring marks? I’ve heard everything from Elmer’s rubber cement, painters tape, scotch tape, etc. I understand that Burris ring’s are another option, but Talley rings have an excellent reputation. Thanks, Tom
 
I recently purchased a Winchester/Miroku in 6,5 creedmoor with a Talley base and rings (vertical split rings) to mount a Leupold 6.5-20x scope. What is the best way to prevent ring marks? I’ve heard everything from Elmer’s rubber cement, painters tape, scotch tape, etc. I understand that Burris ring’s are another option, but Talley rings have an excellent reputation. Thanks, Tom
Don't use a torque wrench, either.

Danny
 
I recently purchased a Winchester/Miroku in 6,5 creedmoor with a Talley base and rings (vertical split rings) to mount a Leupold 6.5-20x scope. What is the best way to prevent ring marks? I’ve heard everything from Elmer’s rubber cement, painters tape, scotch tape, etc. I understand that Burris ring’s are another option, but Talley rings have an excellent reputation. Thanks, Tom
Zeiss also has rings with plastic inserts if you want a little finer rings. Personally I use electrical tape on the inside of my BAT, March or Kelbly rings.
One more very high end way is to have Speedy relieve the rings of causing these marks by lapping and otherwise working on them to perfectly hug the scope so you don't get the marks or crush the tube. Then you will not need inserts or tape.
 
One more quick note. It is worse to under torque the rings on your Creedmoor. I have seen expensive scopes get very ugly marks as the scope moved under force of recoil against your shoulder and dragged itself in the rings.
 
Put a chamfer on all edges that can touch the scope tube, where the rings split needs a heavy chamfer, that is where you get the most damage the edges compress the tube and cause the ditch a good chamfer will stop the compressed scope tube...most newer rings of quality have chamfer's all around if they don't do it yourself
 
Put a chamfer on all edges that can touch the scope tube, where the rings split needs a heavy chamfer, that is where you get the most damage the edges compress the tube and cause the ditch a good chamfer will stop the compressed scope tube...most newer rings of quality have chamfer's all around if they don't do it yourself
I am a big believer of the of the chamfer. As you say, the edges where the ring splits are will be the number one area where you see or find ring marks.. Lapping and/or bedding the rings will eliminate larger deviations that can mark scopes. I know this is going to cause someone to instantly post "I use quality rings, it isn't needed". They are all imperfect to some degree and every person is free to make the choice to use the rings as is and scar their scope. Adding an insulator material, like tape between the scope tube and ring will help. That used to be or is standard with some ring manufacturers. These tings with plastic inserts, well, I won't use them because I don't want to see those things whether they work or not. I will never torque scope rings again and I have lots off torque wrenches. Torquing is meant to stretch screws slightly. Many rings are not substantial enough to resist the clamping force of the specified torque completely, so what will be happening is that you will be getting a torque response from the ring more than the screw. When that happens, the ring is going to start pinching inward at the split and put crimp marks on the tube like was just mentioned in the posting I replied to. What I know is that someone is going to read this comment, then immediately go looking for some rings, a scope and a rifle to mount it on with a torque wrench. Post a comment when you do it.

As an aside, one thing that irks me (one of many things) is most people selling used scopes. They pull the scope off, leave the rongs on and take the pictures just like that. What's under the rings???? I'm just not going to buy a used scope unless the rings are pulled off for the listing image.

Danny
 
I have never noticed “ring marks” when using quality rings from Nightforce or Hawkins and properly torqued into place.
**** This! Do torque your rings equally. Also, if you get "ring marks" do me a favor, use a little WD40 on a rag wipe several times then dry, do you still have ring marks? Probably not unless they weren't torqued properly or left loose and scooted back and forth. Find one of your scopes with "ring marks and use the WD40 and let me know what you find.
EDIT: I do use Area419 rings, also Harrells, NF and others with no problems.
 
I recently purchased a Winchester/Miroku in 6,5 creedmoor with a Talley base and rings (vertical split rings) to mount a Leupold 6.5-20x scope. What is the best way to prevent ring marks? I’ve heard everything from Elmer’s rubber cement, painters tape, scotch tape, etc. I understand that Burris ring’s are another option, but Talley rings have an excellent reputation. Thanks, Tom
i use the burris rings sig zee with the plastic inserts.. never had a scope move in them or get ring marks on them. and ive mounted some good size scopes in them.
 

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