Preferred Barrel Specs: 6mmBR

[Phil3]

I have read all I can on the 6mmBR cartridge, and am preparing to build a rifle using a Howa action. Proper custom barrel selection is new to me, hence my questions. My shooting distances are very limited, with about 70% at 100 yards, 20% at 200, and maybe 10% at 300. If I ever have the opportunity to shoot longer (remote possibility), I can switch barrels to another caliber or tighter twist 6mmBR.

1) Twist: From what I read, 68 - 80 grain bullets would work well, and are suited to a 1:12 barrel.
2) Length: I would expect at my shooting distance, barrel length is not critical. Will be in a Manners or McMillan stock, perhaps a chassis. Was thinking 24" - 26".
3) Contour: This is where I am bit perplexed. I want a heavy barrel, but some choices. I am not sure what the proper diameter should be at breech end, nor how long that large diameter breech end should run for. Using Krieger info,
3a) Contour #17 (Heavy Varmint): Breech end is 1.250" diameter and runs for 5.0" before tapering, with a muzzle of .900", one inch in from the muzzle end, and has an OAL of 29".
3b) Contour #10 (Heavy Bull Target): Breech end is 1.250" diameter and runs for 2.75" before tapering, with a muzzle of .930" one inch in from the muzzle end, and has an OAL of 27".

I just want to be sure I am picking the right barrel with the right specs before I place the order. And that it fits into the stock. Anything else I need to consider on barrel selection? Was looking at this Krieger barrel.

Krieger Barrel 6mm 1-12tw #17 HV @ 29" 1.250 x .900 This is from Bruno's but interestingly, saw no #10 contour barrels.

Thanks,

Phil

 

[jonbearman]

Grizzly tools sells bartlein and I think kreiger and if they(the blanks) are instock you have no wait. There are several people who sell blanks on here,one is savageshooter.Pm him to see if he still sells them and like I said there are others.Dont leave out brux as my experience they shoot outstanding.

 

[Toby Bradshaw]

Either the HV or LV taper are lot of barrel (6-7 pounds just for the barrel, usually) to hang off a Mauser action, and without putting some weight in the buttstock the rifle will be muzzle-heavy and hard to shoot well. One advantage to the HV/LV is that barrel blanks are often in stock at dealers, and often available used.

For a fun gun I would go with something like a Rem varmint/Sendero taper or a medium Palma taper. These make a nice 9-11 pound rifle that shoots very well, and can be taken hunting if desired.

 

[Phil3]

Either the HV or LV taper are lot of barrel (6-7 pounds just for the barrel, usually) to hang off a Mauser action, and without putting some weight in the buttstock the rifle will be muzzle-heavy and hard to shoot well. One advantage to the HV/LV is that barrel blanks are often in stock at dealers, and often available used.

For a fun gun I would go with something like a Rem varmint/Sendero taper or a medium Palma taper. These make a nice 9-11 pound rifle that shoots very well, and can be taken hunting if desired.

Thanks. Do you think the 6 - 7 lb. barrel is excessively heavy for the action? I don't mind adding weight to the stock to balance the gun, but not sure how one does that with a solid stock. Would the varmint/Sendero type taper give up anything in accuracy to the heavier varmint barrels? Both are fairly heavy, so... I don't hunt, so weight does not really matter to me?

Phil

 

[Lapua40X]

1) Twist: From what I read, 68 - 80 grain bullets would work well, and are suited to a 1:12 barrel.

If you're intending to limit yourself to 68 - 80 grain custom reloaded bullets the 1:12 twist may satisfy you. However, I chose the 1:8 twist and I find it to be competitive at all distances with a broader range of bullets - up to 107 grains.

 

[GSPV]

Phil needs to quit yammering and start building.

1. Call Jim Briggs at Northland Shooters Supply (763) 682-4296
2. Tell him that you want a starter rifle in no turn 6 BR for the 104-107 bullets.
3. Do what he tells you to do without oscillating all over the scope.
4. Put a Sightron 10-50 on it in Burris Signature Z rings.
5. Get a cheapie press, Redding Type S FL bushing die, a 266 bushing, Imperial sizing die wax, a Forster Micrometer seater die, K&M Expandiron with 6mm mandrel, Lee length trimmer with 6BR holder, a rocket-style chamfer tool, Ohaus 505-type balance, a cheap trickler, K&M priming tool and #2 Lee AutoPrime shell holder and a 6 BR shell holder for the press.
6. Buy Lapua brass, CCI 450 primers, Varget and 107 SMKs.
7. Buy electronic digital calipers. Mitutoyo is good but expensive.
8. Run the brass over the 6mm mandrel and FL size them before you load them the first time.
9. Buy a bipod or front rest and a rear bag that matches up.
10. Prime, flat side out, drop 30 grains of Varget and seat that SMK 12 thou into the lands.
11. Go shoot. Evaluate. Post specific, questions and incrementally apply fixes.
12. Measure your brass and trim to ~1.550. Chamfer inside and out. Go back to 10 and repeat.

Now, Phil, that leaves a bit out, but it does cover 90%. So, it's poop or get off the pot, dude. Seek to simplify, not complicate.

 

[Raythemanroe]

Phil needs to quit yammering and start building.

1. Call Jim Briggs at Northland Shooters Supply (763) 682-4296
2. Tell him that you want a starter rifle in no turn 6 BR for the 104-107 bullets.
3. Do what he tells you to do without oscillating all over the scope.
4. Put a Sightron 10-50 on it in Burris Signature Z rings.
5. Get a cheapie press, Redding Type S FL bushing die, a 266 bushing, Imperial sizing die wax, a Forster Micrometer seater die, K&M Expandiron with 6mm mandrel, Lee length trimmer with 6BR holder, a rocket-style chamfer tool, Ohaus 505-type balance, a cheap trickler, K&M priming tool and #2 Lee AutoPrime shell holder and a 6 BR shell holder for the press.
6. Buy Lapua brass, CCI 450 primers, Varget and 107 SMKs.
7. Buy electronic digital calipers. Mitutoyo is good but expensive.
8. Run the brass over the 6mm mandrel and FL size them before you load them the first time.
9. Buy a bipod or front rest and a rear bag that matches up.
10. Prime, flat side out, drop 30 grains of Varget and seat that SMK 12 thou into the lands.
11. Go shoot. Evaluate. Post specific, questions and incrementally apply fixes.
12. Measure your brass and trim to ~1.550. Chamfer inside and out. Go back to 10 and repeat.

Now, Phil, that leaves a bit out, but it does cover 90%. So, it's poop or get off the pot, dude. Seek to simplify, not complicate.

PS: Th real issue is you being unemployed. Suggest that you do whatever it takes to cure that and many issues will be resolved. You might consider relocating to a better job market, or retraining into a trade with more openings, but you need to remove barriers and get back into the workforce. Staying unemployed is a vicious downward spiral. I'll stop at that. Sorry to be frank in public, but someone had to take the initiative to address the real, and very obvious, issue.

What primers would you recommend for a 300 wm? using Fed mag primers now

 

[GSPV]

I don't shoot a 300 W(s)M. Can't make an honest recommendation.

Guys, let's not pile on Phil.

 

[boltman223]

There's no ONE right way to do anything when it comes to this stuff.

1) At the distances you'll shoot, 55-70gr bullets are perfect. Even if your shooting is 50%@100yds, 30%@200 and 20%@300, they'll still be just great. And a 14" twist works fine. But if 12" twist would make you feel better, then get one.

2) The BR case isn't real large. Using 30-33gr powder a 24" barrel is plenty and 26" is more than necessary.

3) The thing doesn't need to be super heavy. My 24" Hart is .900" at the muzzle, plus a brake. Sako action, Sako varmint stock. Balance is good, weight is neither light nor heavy. A slight difference in contour won't make an iota of difference in accuracy.

Do you have this much trouble with decisions on other aspects of your life?

Hey ackman, do you think he should go with zero freebore

 

[Ackman]

There's no ONE right way to do anything when it comes to this stuff.

1) At the distances you'll shoot, 55-70gr bullets are perfect. Even if your shooting is 50%@100yds, 30%@200 and 20%@300, they'll still be just great. And a 14" twist works fine. But if 12" twist would make you feel better, then get one.

2) The BR case isn't real large. Using 30-33gr powder a 24" barrel is plenty and 26" is more than necessary.

3) The thing doesn't need to be super heavy. My 24" Hart is .900" at the muzzle, plus a brake. Sako action, Sako varmint stock. Balance is good, weight is neither light nor heavy. A slight difference in contour won't make an iota of difference in accuracy.

Do you have this much trouble with decisions on other aspects of your life?

Hey ackman, do you think he should go with zero freebore

There's another can of worms. Good for many pages of profound discussion.

 

[Toby Bradshaw]

Either the HV or LV taper are lot of barrel (6-7 pounds just for the barrel, usually) to hang off a Mauser action, and without putting some weight in the buttstock the rifle will be muzzle-heavy and hard to shoot well. One advantage to the HV/LV is that barrel blanks are often in stock at dealers, and often available used.

For a fun gun I would go with something like a Rem varmint/Sendero taper or a medium Palma taper. These make a nice 9-11 pound rifle that shoots very well, and can be taken hunting if desired.

Thanks. Do you think the 6 - 7 lb. barrel is excessively heavy for the action? I don't mind adding weight to the stock to balance the gun, but not sure how one does that with a solid stock. Would the varmint/Sendero type taper give up anything in accuracy to the heavier varmint barrels? Both are fairly heavy, so... I don't hunt, so weight does not really matter to me?

Phil

If accuracy REALLY matters then you should do as suggested many times -- buy a used BR rifle in 6PPC (or 6BR if you can find one). Great action, great trigger, great resale value, great accuracy.

But if supreme accuracy doesn't matter to you (and, based on your choice of a Howa action, it doesn't), the Sendero/varmint profile will not give up any meaningful accuracy.

Heavy barrels need long tenons and ample bedding surfaces, of which the Howa has neither.