xr650rRider
Silver $$ Contributor
That write up was specifically for those that have a lathe with a headstock too long to use a spider, or for those that like to keep the muzzle running true at all times.
Gary Walters took the pictures, and posted them off of something like PhotoBucket.
I wish I had a way to retrieve them.
Interesting..what damage was the fixed piloted reamer doing..scratching the bore,cutting the throat-lead of centre?.i only use fixed piloted reamers that Mike supplies.the first time I used one I was concerned about bore damage but prebore seems to overcome that concern.everthing comes out good..consistently.thats why I stick with my method.i maybe lucky.if i can find a better way i will try it.it keeps that bad phone call away..the phone does ring alot but it isn't always to do with rifles or shotguns.it can be a structural welding job,engine or transmission rebuild.i never know.variety is the spice of life I was once told.The bore scope is why I switched to removable pilots many, many years ago , at least 25yrs. I was taught to drill and bore in gunsmith school (MCC 2yr program, grad in '93) those 30+ yrs ago. I built a muzzle flush before it was 'the thing to do', as I had seen a Pratt & Whitney 'dedicated chambering machine' (built on the same frame as the P&W single spindle rifling machine)
in the past that had, as factory equipment, oil through the barrel to flush the reamer. (that P&W dedicated chambering machine was of WW2 vintage). What I saw that was left behind by the fixed pilot, I did not like. And yes, I know how to set-up as I had 16yrs of 'job shop' machining experience before I enrolled in GS school. My phone rings often, wondering if I have time to.............
Best I could do.
Yes i slightly missunderstood your question.i envision a solid piloted reamer possibly starting and cutting 'untrue' in the bore from start to finish without a true prebored hole for it to start in.as we no prebore keeps everything good.interests me how you was getting those scratches where the pilot finished in your finished chamber..maybe a piece of swarf somehow got there or slight curvature in the barrel at that point.im just thinking of possibilitys..did you ever find out what the cause was?the solid piloted reamers I've used are JGS..various small calibres up to big game calibres.i do everything the same and I don't have the flushing system running at high pressure really.like I've said I may be lucky.I am uncertain how pre-boring would make any difference, as the bored hole should come nowhere near where the pilot will be. As I said in my post, "where the pilot is at in the rifling", never mentioned the throat. The fixed pilot reamers left scratches in the bore, just ahead of the throat where the pilot had been. Throat was well centered, as that is where I had dialed-in to begin with. Now, I use no pilot at all, as the body of the reamer will follow the pre-bored 'hole'. That allows more oil to flow over the reamer at a lower pressure, also. A chucking reamer has no pilot, in a floating holder it just follows the drilled hole.
I’m still pre boring, especially long cartridge like RUMMan this thread went on for 24 days and 12 pages and I’m still not sure whether to pre bore or not.
Jim
Man this thread went on for 24 days and 12 pages and I’m still not sure whether to pre bore or not.
Jim