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point of impact shifts? help.

Im working up loads for my 223 and got some good groups. Only thing is it consistantly shoots 2 in one hole then jumps an inch or so and puts 2 in that hole. I would say it's me but I don't have this issue with my other rifles. I checked scope rings, bases and action screws. Everything's tight. Its a laminate stock. would it be safe to say it should be bedded? Any other suggestions?
 
bedding is always a good thing to do no matter what the groups are doing...imo....also one thing you might try is switching scopes to see if the problem continues or goes away...dont know what type of scope you are using..also some other things that could be a problem...check your parallax and make sure its not causing you problems..also check your rest set up...and make sure you are shooting the rifle in the same manner and position everytime...i recently had a problem with a factroy rem. 700 in 243...every once in a while it would throw a flyer high and left about 2 inches outside of the group...the normal group was excellent and often times the flyers would group together...long story short i found out it was actually me flinching...i went back to the basics to say...and started shooting my suppressed 22lr to train myself to get away from the flinch and then shot the 243 again about a month later after practicing with the 22lr. and my grouping was much much better...not saying that this is the same for you but its amazing how relaxed i got in my shooting and it started to show up in my groups.
 
Scopes a leupold vxiii 6.5-20x50. had them install their tactical milling reticle and go over the internals since I got it used. everything checked OK. I would honestly assume its me but I shoot my other 223 and 308 off the same bipod and rear bag and don't have this issue. One is a savage accustock and the other a bell n Carlson tac.5 which also uses an aluminum block. i wish both the savages were interchangable but they arent. I should correct myself though. upon measuring the groups they shift only about half inch.
 
personally ive never been a fan of working up loads off of a bipod...but just my way of doing things...when i work up loads i try to remove as many variables as possible...for me shooting off of a bipod is fine for hunting but for load work i use a rest
 
Your absolutely right. I guess I'm a little stubborn. I like to take every chance I get to the range to practice. I feel like benches are cheating. although amazing what a combination of man machine rest and projectile can do at long distances its just not as gratifying for me I guess. even while working up loads. I'd say half of my shooting experience has been testing loads. so y not better myself in the process.
 
I do everything from a bipod. load development and hunting. Have always been able to find loads in the 1/4 to 1/2 MOA range from a bipod with all of my rifles. A good competition bench rifle in a solid bench rest is a whole 'nother animal, but doesn't really apply to this topic :) My bipod with a good rear bag is actually more steady than any rest I have ever used for a hunting rifle with a sporter, varmint, or tactical style stock.

Biggest thing is to use a type of rest that you are very familiar and comfortable with for load development. If you plan to hunt with a bipod, I believe it is best to develop loads from a bipod because you want to know exactly how your load will react with a bipod on the forearm of the stock since it will cause your rifle to recoil differently.

I believe your POI shift may be due to barrel heating or fouling. Are you shooting your loads on a fairly clean barrel or are you firing them from a cold bore? 22 cal barrels often take 20-30 rounds to foul up properly before they settle into consistent accuracy, especially if they are factory barrels.

I have often found my best loads firing the 3rd to 5th test load group during development without allowing the barrel to fully cool between tests. Also never give the barrel time to cool between each shot. All shots should be fired in fairly fast succession. I Shoot, eject my shell, load another round, get on target, get steady, breath and squeeze until all rounds are fired. Then I go up to get a good first hand view of the target and label it with load data and chrono speed. Come back record data in my notebook and begin firing next load in same fashion.
 
One other thing is a pressure point somewhere along the barrel channel or at the forend tip, remove it, you may have to work up another load to shoot well, this has allways cured it for me. ed
 
tunered said:
One other thing is a pressure point somewhere along the barrel channel or at the forend tip, remove it, you may have to work up another load to shoot well, this has allways cured it for me. ed

Agreed. Definitely ensure the barrel is completely free floating in the stock, except for maybe the first inch or two from the receiver of course.
 
I've had scopes come back from repair worse than they went in... Just sayin'

I'd work on the setup, and fundamentals, but 1/2" at 100 yards is a big move. If it consistently doubles in similar positions, you likely have a scope problem. They can be the hardest thing to properly diagnose because they are only consistent in being inconsistent.
 
lots of good help. thanks. I've probably been a little excessive with the barrel cleaning. it is a factory barrel and it def does shoot better with 15+ rounds through it. I think that maybe I am letting the barrel cool just enough to possibly cause shift as well. ill check for a pressure point too. its possible. I guess j shouldn't rule out the scope either. ill swap it out with another if I don't find any of the other to be the problem.
 

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