PMA barrel mic, will it fit over a 1-1/8th tenon?

[hoz53]

Another piece of duplicating a barrel. Indexed for barrel marking, so you write it down for action your chambering for. That piece is threaded 18 pitch for Panda. You measure it's OAL and scribe it on the side. Use your depth mic over to the side and measure to the end of the tenon. Little math and you have your tenon length. You can make it slip on just as easily but I use the index marks, so threaded makes it dual use.

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Okay i see how that one works. that would be handy. I will have to make one of them soon. Thanks again for the help.

 

[hoz53]

The top one is pretty much identical to one I'm making some of right now and posted a thread on. I didn't steal it from ya, I promise. Great minds just think alike! Lol! Do you find the window worthwhile? I put one on one, just to see if I wanted it. Didn't see a lot of value to it but just wondering your thoughts. Not a big deal to add.

Hi mike— put a little bigger in diameter disc than the conterbore dia. on the face of spindle and you could use that to measure tenon length directly.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Hi mike— put a little bigger in diameter disc than the conterbore dia. on the face of spindle and you could use that to measure tenon length directly.

If I understand you right, it just needs a 5/8 flat indicator tip to do that. I don't include those with the ones I'm making but it's in the instructions that it can be bought and added to the indicator to gain that benefit from the tool. Never found a reasonably priced one anywhere to add with it. They'd add $15-$20 to the tool and some will never need it. But I totally agree with you and I have one on mine already. Really handy for cutting the cone too. Lol!

Oh and yes, a bigger tip, like a 3/4" or 7/8" would do overall on a counterbored tenon, like a Remington. I think I missed that point at first. I might play with a couple. Thanks!

 

[hoz53]

If I understand you right, it just needs a 5/8 flat indicator tip to do that. I don't include those with the ones I'm making but it's in the instructions that it can be bought and added to the indicator to gain that benefit from the tool. Never found a reasonably priced one anywhere to add with it. They'd add $15-$20 to the tool and some will never need it. But I totally agree with you and I have one on mine already. Really handy for cutting the cone too. Lol!

Oh and yes, a bigger tip, like a 3/4" or 7/8" would do overall on a counterbored tenon, like a Remington. I think I missed that point at first. I might play with a couple. Thanks!

Oh yeah--thats what i have in mind- and i want one that i could use with a counterbore since thats most of what i do most of. i was thinking about a mic type spindle but an indicator does sound better since you can screw on the tip. Thanks for the info

 

[LVLAaron]

 

[LVLAaron]

 

[Dusty Stevens]

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Putting that nice dividing head to good use huh? Now make one 3” long with 16tpi on one side and 18 on the other. Make 2

 

[LVLAaron]

Nooooooooo

 

[LVLAaron]

All my bases covered.

 

[xr650rRider]

That's a lot of marks to count. I only have 20 and have to interpolate between marks and write it down like 2.3. I labeled mine with a Cricut machine and printed a vinyl sticker that lined up numbers by circumference. Then a $25 24Volt DC power supply and some salt water to etch it.

 

[LVLAaron]

Yeah. I made the marks 10 degrees apart. I'll probably only mark every 5th mark. Debating if I'm going to stamp them or wait until I get a laser.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Yeah. I made the marks 10 degrees apart. I'll probably only mark every 5th mark. Debating if I'm going to stamp them or wait until I get a laser.

Friggin lazer

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Yeah. I made the marks 10 degrees apart. I'll probably only mark every 5th mark. Debating if I'm going to stamp them or wait until I get a laser.

Those look nice Aaron but practically speaking, I would've left off the hash marks and used a sharpie marker. Otherwise, they need numbers so that they can be used to engrave a bbl without having the old bbl in hand, but once. If you use the same tool with numbers to check all bbls(that it will fit), then you can say, John Doe's bbl gets engraved at say..20 and 15, using the same tool as originally. If not for that reason, I can't think of another reason to engrave them. Nice work though and nothing wrong with it. Just a little easier to mark where the engraving goes with a sharpie. To get the lettering to line up, someone has to screw one on and reference it with either numbers or marks. You could make up a few to send to your customers for them to screw on and return it to you with either sharpie marks or specific numbers, though. IMHO, the benefit of engraving them is moot without reference number/marks.

Don't take this as anything other than simply trying to be of help and I might be overlooking something and be wrong but I think this might be something that just becomes more apparent with more experience. Hell, I'd be embarrassed to admit how long it took me to figure out a tool like this is all I needed to align engraving without the action, so it's not like I'm trying to brag at all. Just think it through and you either have a plan that I'm missing or you will agree that your tool either needs numbers or nothing except a magic marker...either one. Might be a little tricky to line everything up but you could add numbers to what you already have time in...fwiw.

Just a couple of threads is plenty.

 

[LVLAaron]

For sure - I thought about just doing something simple like having a punch mark or something more simple. I hadn't had a real use for that rotary indexer yet, so I went that route.

I'll probably just stamp 0-10-20-30 on them.. Or dremel type engraver. I really hate my stamps.

 

[LVLAaron]

Friggin lazer

If I were an FFL and could make money with one I'd have one in a heartbeat.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

For sure - I thought about just doing something simple like having a punch mark or something more simple. I hadn't had a real use for that rotary indexer yet, so I went that route.

I'll probably just stamp 0-10-20-30 on them.. Or dremel type engraver. I really hate my stamps.

Think it through a bit.

 

[LVLAaron]

The main reason I wanted these was to keep barrels "timed" correctly for a given action.

The way I see myself using them...

Barrel comes off. Gauge goes on, take note of which hash mark aligns with 12 o'clock on the barrel. And headspace measurements, etc.

Cut new barrel... Now I can clock/time/chamber it without having the action in hand, or just without handling and screwing the action on and off as many times with my dirty hands - Keeping everything aligned the way it should be. Pointing up, little indent at the end of the barrel for the tuner all at the top.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

The main reason I wanted these was to keep barrels "timed" correctly for a given action.

The way I see myself using them...

Barrel comes off. Gauge goes on, take note of which hash mark aligns with 12 o'clock on the barrel. And headspace measurements, etc.

Cut new barrel... Now I can clock/time/chamber it without having the action in hand, or just without handling and screwing the action on and off as many times with my dirty hands - Keeping everything aligned the way it should be. Pointing up, little indent at the end of the barrel for the tuner all at the top.

Send it to me ill engrave numbers on it for you instead of stamping them. Theyll look nice 20yrs from now and the numbers will still be relevant if you keep the same gage

 

[LVLAaron]

 

[LVLAaron]

I hand lapped a shim so the distance between the shoulder of the tool and the anvil is exactly 2" when the dial is at .500. I figured that would be important for some reason