Wolfdog91
Silver $$ Contributor
Ah ok. Yeah I threw those back in and well . Interesting results so far
Playing with .22 tcm
- Thread starter Wolfdog91
- Start date
ggshoots
Gold $$ Contributor
Great read, super job on photos and comments.
I was really looking at doing something with the same 22TCM but decided to build a different one with capacity of about 14 grains. I'm basically running a shortened 223Ackley case with 13.6grains of VV N110 with 40grVmax at 3240fps. You may want to try it, seems to get me better speed with no pressure and very good accuracy than Lilgun. H4198 works good for my lower node squirrel round at 2450fps but sounds like you need something that will get it cranking.
I was really looking at doing something with the same 22TCM but decided to build a different one with capacity of about 14 grains. I'm basically running a shortened 223Ackley case with 13.6grains of VV N110 with 40grVmax at 3240fps. You may want to try it, seems to get me better speed with no pressure and very good accuracy than Lilgun. H4198 works good for my lower node squirrel round at 2450fps but sounds like you need something that will get it cranking.
I left a post on your thread under "Reloading" subforum. Heavy buffer & heavy buffer spring is your friend.
on the case forming front and also getting to know your rifle's chamber you want to sort out the shoulder location of your chamber, which will take 2-3 firings of a case to get it pretty close. Take measurements and record. Between these shots you only want to resize a portion of the fired case neck ... just enough to hold a bullet. You don't want to bump the shoulder.
Have you checked the Neck OD of a loaded cartridge and then what is it's OD after firing? This will tell you how much clearance there is in the chamber. Sometimes cases will stick because there is not enough room for case to expand and then contract. If its too tight the neck expands and adheres to chamber wall. This is always a concern when case forming, especially when the neck section is formed out of the case body (thicker brass walls) of the donor brass. This will tell you if you need to consider neck turning to add some clearance.
The TCM is a petite cartridge. I decided that the smallest cartridge that my hands could manipulate without arthritis was 221 Fireball.
on the case forming front and also getting to know your rifle's chamber you want to sort out the shoulder location of your chamber, which will take 2-3 firings of a case to get it pretty close. Take measurements and record. Between these shots you only want to resize a portion of the fired case neck ... just enough to hold a bullet. You don't want to bump the shoulder.
Have you checked the Neck OD of a loaded cartridge and then what is it's OD after firing? This will tell you how much clearance there is in the chamber. Sometimes cases will stick because there is not enough room for case to expand and then contract. If its too tight the neck expands and adheres to chamber wall. This is always a concern when case forming, especially when the neck section is formed out of the case body (thicker brass walls) of the donor brass. This will tell you if you need to consider neck turning to add some clearance.
The TCM is a petite cartridge. I decided that the smallest cartridge that my hands could manipulate without arthritis was 221 Fireball.
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Wolfdog91
Silver $$ Contributor
Ok so the last two days have been a bit of a cluster with this lil guy, and I have to be some sort of crazy because I've been enjoying the process.....now the process includes me wanting to ram my head though the wall but haaaayy. So sorry if this is a bit rambling and random
So, to skip over a lot of extra stuff ,long story short my home made brass has been the main problem . And I gotta say , I feel a bit stupid because I've NEVER messed with neck turning and all that so this is a new deal for me. Now the main problem I've been having over a good no ejection. This lil guy is actually a great shooter ( for the whole 50yd I've been shooting)
Anyhow not the best deal but my brass
Brass from factory ammo
Now , again be not knowing just diddly about the importance of neck thickness ( again I've never messed with turning necks and all that, a long with the fact NO one is really messing with this lil cartridge, especially like how am. All the brass from I've seen is , cut 5.56/.223 to length anneal , resize/ form , trim , load shoot, , sooo from looking at what everyone else does and it worka the idea of needing to turn necks never crossed dmy mind)
So which that being said I stared really goin into the weeds , reading about 9mm blow backs , buffer weights springs buffer tubes , watching and rewatching the two videos KAK did on this and the 7.62x25 tokerv. Saw a lil tid bit on kaks site taking about using a carbine buffer tube . Sosonc ei had a AR I never really shoot with one and a old SBA 3 brace sitting around ( and from what I read this is completely legal...... though this crap has been bouncing around so much last two years I could have changed an hour ago and the ATF might be on the way to shoot my dog and toss me in prison...who knows. I swapped them around . Also tossed back in the mil spec trigger ( had a Kaw Valley reduced spring kit)
At this point I was doing. Everything with the gun right my loads just weren't hot enough to generate the pressure I needed ( look I'm not an expert, not claiming to be an expert, probably will blow my face off one of these days lol. But when you only have like two published loads , with powder you can't get , no one with any experience doing what your doing ..... Welp baby steps lol. That being said it seems to be a common consensus that using hornet data and work up is the way to go). So stared loading a bit heavier looking for pressure and the deal is with both lil gun and H110 I really don't see anything with he higher chargers that I wasn't already seeing with the lower charges. Where there definitely could not have been problems
On a side note I did start seating my bullets a bit deeper . Somone mention the longer COAL/CBTO that I was doing could possibly be a problem. So stared seating deeper and actually had a few cycle ! Anyhow, with the new carbine buffer and the old mil spec trigger along with the new loads I actually started getting more signs of the gun trying to cycle
Along with some BEAUTIFUL case forming ... For the most part
So, to skip over a lot of extra stuff ,long story short my home made brass has been the main problem . And I gotta say , I feel a bit stupid because I've NEVER messed with neck turning and all that so this is a new deal for me. Now the main problem I've been having over a good no ejection. This lil guy is actually a great shooter ( for the whole 50yd I've been shooting)
Anyhow not the best deal but my brass
Brass from factory ammo
Now , again be not knowing just diddly about the importance of neck thickness ( again I've never messed with turning necks and all that, a long with the fact NO one is really messing with this lil cartridge, especially like how am. All the brass from I've seen is , cut 5.56/.223 to length anneal , resize/ form , trim , load shoot, , sooo from looking at what everyone else does and it worka the idea of needing to turn necks never crossed dmy mind)
So which that being said I stared really goin into the weeds , reading about 9mm blow backs , buffer weights springs buffer tubes , watching and rewatching the two videos KAK did on this and the 7.62x25 tokerv. Saw a lil tid bit on kaks site taking about using a carbine buffer tube . Sosonc ei had a AR I never really shoot with one and a old SBA 3 brace sitting around ( and from what I read this is completely legal...... though this crap has been bouncing around so much last two years I could have changed an hour ago and the ATF might be on the way to shoot my dog and toss me in prison...who knows. I swapped them around . Also tossed back in the mil spec trigger ( had a Kaw Valley reduced spring kit)
At this point I was doing. Everything with the gun right my loads just weren't hot enough to generate the pressure I needed ( look I'm not an expert, not claiming to be an expert, probably will blow my face off one of these days lol. But when you only have like two published loads , with powder you can't get , no one with any experience doing what your doing ..... Welp baby steps lol. That being said it seems to be a common consensus that using hornet data and work up is the way to go). So stared loading a bit heavier looking for pressure and the deal is with both lil gun and H110 I really don't see anything with he higher chargers that I wasn't already seeing with the lower charges. Where there definitely could not have been problems
On a side note I did start seating my bullets a bit deeper . Somone mention the longer COAL/CBTO that I was doing could possibly be a problem. So stared seating deeper and actually had a few cycle ! Anyhow, with the new carbine buffer and the old mil spec trigger along with the new loads I actually started getting more signs of the gun trying to cycle
Along with some BEAUTIFUL case forming ... For the most part
Wolfdog91
Silver $$ Contributor
Also was able some wild velocities from this lil 8.5" barrel
Also with the old mil spec trigger back in I wasn't getting those stupid bulged primers constantly . Now I still got them but not every/ Evey other round like before . O and talking about primers . Somone made the comment that converted brass was still rifle brass so a small rifle primers would probably make more sense then a small pistol and seems so with the AR small rifle match ones.
So at this point I was about at my wits end and said screw it. 12.0 GR of H110 an
And funny enough only one got a building primer
Also with the old mil spec trigger back in I wasn't getting those stupid bulged primers constantly . Now I still got them but not every/ Evey other round like before . O and talking about primers . Somone made the comment that converted brass was still rifle brass so a small rifle primers would probably make more sense then a small pistol and seems so with the AR small rifle match ones.
So at this point I was about at my wits end and said screw it. 12.0 GR of H110 an
And funny enough only one got a building primer
Attachments
Wolfdog91
Silver $$ Contributor
Well still no ejection at this point I dropped dback down to a mid level load and said I wanna see what would happen if I trimmed the buffer spring. I know this is something 9mm blow back and suppressed guys will do at times , and a new spring is like $20 so why not. So popped off a coil and GOT AN EJECTION!
......that end up being a case head separation lol. Lil paper towel, some cero safe and a cleaning rod and poof
First one I've ever had sooooo was a fun l problem solving deal.
Well there was some fairy ammo just sitting on the kitchen table and I was just like " why not " grabbing them , loaded them and boom boom boom perfect cycling into the dirt!
So at this point I'm at my wits end I've done everything..... except try to reload the factory brass. So said screw it , when in side found a few , resized and loaded them with one of the most mild loads I had ( like 10.0 GR of lil gun I think) and I'm honestly not expecting much aaannnd boom boom boom CYCLING AND LOCK BACK !
was it the necks being too thick ? Was it the coating this brass apparently has. ? Idk but it works ! So went to down and grabbed 2 50rd boxes .
Spent the last hour shooting this stuff though the gun with different combos of buffer tubes and springs ( always used the KAK blue top weight) and THE THING JUST WORKED REGARDLESS!
And I've been horrible keeping track of everything between doing chores and what not and can't quite remember if this was with th pistol or carbine buffer tube but the forms are interesting.
This group is from using the KAK spring and weight
And with a standard sling and the KAK weight
So... Feeling like the KAK spring ( even though it's not missing a coil and a half) and weight is the best for the casings...but man if I just wanted this thing to run I think I'd go with the standar and the weight
......that end up being a case head separation lol. Lil paper towel, some cero safe and a cleaning rod and poof
First one I've ever had sooooo was a fun l problem solving deal.
Well there was some fairy ammo just sitting on the kitchen table and I was just like " why not " grabbing them , loaded them and boom boom boom perfect cycling into the dirt!
So at this point I'm at my wits end I've done everything..... except try to reload the factory brass. So said screw it , when in side found a few , resized and loaded them with one of the most mild loads I had ( like 10.0 GR of lil gun I think) and I'm honestly not expecting much aaannnd boom boom boom CYCLING AND LOCK BACK !
was it the necks being too thick ? Was it the coating this brass apparently has. ? Idk but it works ! So went to down and grabbed 2 50rd boxes .
Spent the last hour shooting this stuff though the gun with different combos of buffer tubes and springs ( always used the KAK blue top weight) and THE THING JUST WORKED REGARDLESS!
And I've been horrible keeping track of everything between doing chores and what not and can't quite remember if this was with th pistol or carbine buffer tube but the forms are interesting.
This group is from using the KAK spring and weight
And with a standard sling and the KAK weight
So... Feeling like the KAK spring ( even though it's not missing a coil and a half) and weight is the best for the casings...but man if I just wanted this thing to run I think I'd go with the standar and the weight
Thanks Wolfdog for another interesting project. They always make for a fun read and you definitely are always thinking outside the box. I applaud your enthusiasm and tenacity to make things work.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/.22_TCM
Loaded rounds outside neck diameter looks like .255" maximum? Anything larger should be neck turned and/or inside neck reamed.
Loaded rounds outside neck diameter looks like .255" maximum? Anything larger should be neck turned and/or inside neck reamed.
get a wolff extra power hammer spring. You are still getting premature pull back by what your necks look like. Or use a faster powder.
don't know if you have this but here is a bunch of other published load data
shootersreference.com
don't know if you have this but here is a bunch of other published load data
Shooter's Reference Load Data for .22 TCM
Ideally, you want to case form from the same lot of donor brass so that the formed cases will be consistent. I do this for precision ammo, but for plinking or general use, I am comfortable using range brass. With Range Brass you are introduces a level of "uncertainty"... number of times fired, primer pockets, and case damage (expanded bases, case separation, splitting, etc.). I do a lot of case prep and QC on the front-end to reduce risk of potential failures and/or avoid case irregularities. Since the 22 TCM uses the bottom portion if a .223 donor case you might want to run all of the donor brass (before doing any cutting or forming) through a small base sizing die. Any cases that are difficult should be tossed. Now you have reduced risk of any expanded case bottoms before starting your case forming process.
If you are doing case forming then you want to use a stout load so that the shoulders are blown forward, case body expands to match chamber, and the base of cartridge is held firmly against the bolt face. Use of a full charge of fast powder is better than a modest charge with a slower powder. In a bolt rifle you would want to seal the chamber so that case has chance to expand before gases escape the case and potentially flow back down the sides of the case as evidenced by heavy soot along neck and shoulders of case. This "seal" is accomplished by either (1) jamming the bullet into the lands (long COAL) or (2) create a false shoulder that is slightly larger than the chamber's neck ID. This may be a little more difficult in an AR15. I would load my bullets long so that they jam into lands. Do to the minimal size/case capacity of the 22 TCM, you are unlikely to encounter any meaningful pressure spikes with only 10gr of powder and extremely light bullets.
Measure the case necks of next 10-20 cases both before firing (loaded cartridges) and after firing (spent cases). Keep track of the order of these cases because you want to track their progress over a couple of firing in order to better understand your rifle's chamber and how best to set-up your die for both forming and resizing the brass cases.
1) What is the Neck O.D. of (a) loaded cartridge and (b) fired case?
> Use calipers and measure in the middle of the case neck.
2) What is the case length from the Case Base to the Shoulder of (a) loaded cartridge and (b) fired case?- >Use a Hornady shoulder bump gage.
3) Repeat the above process for the same 10-20 cases (keep in same order so can track progress).
> Resize first half of case neck ... don't want to do anything to shoulder.
After 2x-3x firings the cases should stabilize with their dimensions closely matching the rifle's chamber. If when you resize the entire case, you again want to measure case length to shoulder before the resizing and then afterwards. What you are looking for is to see if the length to shoulder grew (got longer) after the resizing. If it did then this means that your cases are still not fully formed.. they are short and during the resizing the case's shoulder got squeezed / pushed forward into the empty gap until it started to make contact with the shoulder position cut in the sizing die.
I happen to have some 22TCM cases that I picked up at the range at some point(s) in time. I measured the neck wall thickness using a micrometer. The measurements across the cases at various points around the necks were .014"-.016". I should note that when I used my caliper the range was 0.16"-.018" due in part to the calipers catching the transitional area toward neck/shoulder junction that tends to be thicker.
If your neck wall thickness is .02-.04" thick then it is actually .004"-.008" too thick (2 case walls). The outside diameter of the neck (loaded vs. post-firing) should provide a clue as to whether the neck is to thick for the rifle's chamber. Reload some of your once fired cases that you formed, and see if they continue to have cycle / extraction issues. The neck wall thickness may be the reason that your rifle isn't cycling on your formed cases but runs fine on factory ammo.
Sorry so long...
If you are doing case forming then you want to use a stout load so that the shoulders are blown forward, case body expands to match chamber, and the base of cartridge is held firmly against the bolt face. Use of a full charge of fast powder is better than a modest charge with a slower powder. In a bolt rifle you would want to seal the chamber so that case has chance to expand before gases escape the case and potentially flow back down the sides of the case as evidenced by heavy soot along neck and shoulders of case. This "seal" is accomplished by either (1) jamming the bullet into the lands (long COAL) or (2) create a false shoulder that is slightly larger than the chamber's neck ID. This may be a little more difficult in an AR15. I would load my bullets long so that they jam into lands. Do to the minimal size/case capacity of the 22 TCM, you are unlikely to encounter any meaningful pressure spikes with only 10gr of powder and extremely light bullets.
Measure the case necks of next 10-20 cases both before firing (loaded cartridges) and after firing (spent cases). Keep track of the order of these cases because you want to track their progress over a couple of firing in order to better understand your rifle's chamber and how best to set-up your die for both forming and resizing the brass cases.
1) What is the Neck O.D. of (a) loaded cartridge and (b) fired case?
> Use calipers and measure in the middle of the case neck.
2) What is the case length from the Case Base to the Shoulder of (a) loaded cartridge and (b) fired case?- >Use a Hornady shoulder bump gage.
3) Repeat the above process for the same 10-20 cases (keep in same order so can track progress).
> Resize first half of case neck ... don't want to do anything to shoulder.
After 2x-3x firings the cases should stabilize with their dimensions closely matching the rifle's chamber. If when you resize the entire case, you again want to measure case length to shoulder before the resizing and then afterwards. What you are looking for is to see if the length to shoulder grew (got longer) after the resizing. If it did then this means that your cases are still not fully formed.. they are short and during the resizing the case's shoulder got squeezed / pushed forward into the empty gap until it started to make contact with the shoulder position cut in the sizing die.
I happen to have some 22TCM cases that I picked up at the range at some point(s) in time. I measured the neck wall thickness using a micrometer. The measurements across the cases at various points around the necks were .014"-.016". I should note that when I used my caliper the range was 0.16"-.018" due in part to the calipers catching the transitional area toward neck/shoulder junction that tends to be thicker.
If your neck wall thickness is .02-.04" thick then it is actually .004"-.008" too thick (2 case walls). The outside diameter of the neck (loaded vs. post-firing) should provide a clue as to whether the neck is to thick for the rifle's chamber. Reload some of your once fired cases that you formed, and see if they continue to have cycle / extraction issues. The neck wall thickness may be the reason that your rifle isn't cycling on your formed cases but runs fine on factory ammo.
Sorry so long...
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you can't treat a blow back like a regular gun. NONE of the things transfers over from regular rifle loading. If you have never run a blowback you won't understand.
If you could get cmmg to make you a barrel and bolt with the radial mechanism you would not have as many issues. OR see if anyone makes a delayed/roller/bearing upper for the tcm. There are a few companies out there that make the delayed systems in 9mm.
If you could get cmmg to make you a barrel and bolt with the radial mechanism you would not have as many issues. OR see if anyone makes a delayed/roller/bearing upper for the tcm. There are a few companies out there that make the delayed systems in 9mm.
Wolfdog91
Silver $$ Contributor
So lil update, went and took those fired factory casings , loaded them up with 10gr of lil gun a 40gr vmax aannnd
Now the very first one got hung up but the rest ejected and imo looks like I have very consistent fire forming
With my home made brass every one of them took a good bit of effort to get the case to eject even before firing, these little guys , take barely.1/4 of the same amount of effort
Now the very first one got hung up but the rest ejected and imo looks like I have very consistent fire forming
With my home made brass every one of them took a good bit of effort to get the case to eject even before firing, these little guys , take barely.1/4 of the same amount of effort
Wolfdog91
Silver $$ Contributor
So another lil update, kept paying with the lil gun and H110 . Main problem now is I can't get more then three rounds without a round getting caught trying to eject. I mean factory stuff is working pretty close to flawless just ...it's not super accurate....talking about 1.5-2" @55yd . I mean I chose those caliber for 100yd and in and really 30yd and less but ... eghhhhh. Also the friggin recoil of this lil sucker with hotter loads is kinda ridiculous. Like I feel if it was a bigger / longer gun wouldn't be terrible but man it's actually kinda unpleasant to shoot. It's hort to explain but if you ever shot one of those cheaper bear barrel air guns and you feelm the weird snappy twangy type recoil they have ? Yeah well take that rack it up to about 10x . It's just violent as all get out.
Well anyhow I was about to self this lil guy for a bit buuuut I had two more pieces of prepped brass and about 70 somthing factory round to blow so went plinking a bit at 100yd. Fact stuff ain't to bad to shoot but as I said not too accurate was able to ding my 100yd prairie dog enough though. But I looks at this to prepped and primed pieces and just decided to try another powder for the hornet.... In this case 9.7 GR of IMR 4227. For som reason 80% of my good loads have been with some type of extended powder and this stuff is like a micro extended powder. Well loaded the two up wast exposing much at all aannnd a very nice soft recoil AND. Locked the bolt back each time !
No clue on how fast or well it shoots since is was just kind a shooting it just to see eif it would even work but I'm excited again . Also it's fire forming pretty decent, though it seems there's always one out of Every few that off
Well anyhow I was about to self this lil guy for a bit buuuut I had two more pieces of prepped brass and about 70 somthing factory round to blow so went plinking a bit at 100yd. Fact stuff ain't to bad to shoot but as I said not too accurate was able to ding my 100yd prairie dog enough though. But I looks at this to prepped and primed pieces and just decided to try another powder for the hornet.... In this case 9.7 GR of IMR 4227. For som reason 80% of my good loads have been with some type of extended powder and this stuff is like a micro extended powder. Well loaded the two up wast exposing much at all aannnd a very nice soft recoil AND. Locked the bolt back each time !
No clue on how fast or well it shoots since is was just kind a shooting it just to see eif it would even work but I'm excited again . Also it's fire forming pretty decent, though it seems there's always one out of Every few that off
Wolfdog91
Silver $$ Contributor
Yeah I'm seeing that, problem is seems no one has really don't this so honestly I'm kinda just figuring this out as I go lol.
If anything I'm looking at seeing if I can get a DI barrel with a pistol length gas built.... Not sure what I'd do about a BCG and mag though... I mean it uses a .223)5.56 bolt face but the magazine deal.... Eveyone is so obsessed with making this use pistol mags but I'm just here like .... It's a mini bottle neck rifle round
Wolfdog91
Silver $$ Contributor
Thanks
love playing in less traveled fields of things, idk certainty of success is kinda boring lol ! Probably why a few of my set up that never give me problems never get messed with too much 
But this lil guy has been bringing my gears a decent but and as much as I've enjoyed the headache I'm kind a happy to put it up for the next three weeks
Wolfdog91
Silver $$ Contributor
So all the brass I used is from the same batch of wolf I got from someone off there personal range. Apparently it was just a fun mag dump day or something,
As far as case forming loads , I gotta say I think have gotten them pretty well stout lol, honestly now that I'm trying this 4227 I can really feel how stout I was getting some..of my other loads.
But yes the cas being too thick is really the only thing that makes sense now. Especially when some of the lightest loads I used with my formed brass that wouldn't extract, worked just fine with factory well.. not to mention I basically had to mortar my formed brass just to get it out the chamber after racking a round vs just being able to pull out the factory brass reloads with next to no real effort.
Anyhow this just gives me a excuse to try neck turning lol. Now curious though , should a turn it while it's still cut and straight walled to j can get both the neck and shoulder ? Or only when it's formed and just the neck ?
Are your necks larger then .255" ? When forming from 223 brass. If yes, neck turning is a must do.
Necks need turning AFTER fire forming. IMO. If no bullet used, some kind of filler to hold the powder in place?
But this may be very dangerous with a blow back action?
Find someone online that has done turning for your gun and cartridge.
Good question. One i do not know the answer to.
Thinning the case neck will reduce neck tension/bullet hold, using standard sizing die. Dont over do turning, if needing turned at all?
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snert
Silver $$ Contributor
1) You cant measure brass neck thickness like you showed in the photo. The caliper will bridge and the measurment will be all over the place. You have to use a ball mic. So your measurements of your brass thickness are useless. They are not real.
2) Since your brass shows clearly that your cases are NOT forming consistently, and your primers are backing out, it is evident that the cases are backing out of the chamber (in a sense your "die") as they are forming. This is because every one seems to be moving differently as the bolt backs up under recoil. You will never get good brass using this technique.
3) Your primers are backing out because your headspace is all over the place. Your initial fireform relies on the bolt moving at the same rate and timing on every case, but your handmade cases are too thick in the neck for a proper bullet release. So the whole process is irregular, hence irregular brass.
No offense, but you are playing with a bomb in front of your face.
Just cause you haven't eaten gas yet doesn't mean you won't. I am not being a jerk. I am just warning you that you are on really shakey ground.
If you insist on forming brass from a blow back, you have to:
1) get a good chamber cast and get real measurements
2) learn to use a ball mic and neck turning equipment
3) understand that your case(before fireforming) has to have a loaded round clearance inside your chamber neck area of .003 at least of you are sticking bullets in the case until the case starts to back out.
4) Understand that all the powder, spring, buffer changes will not fix these basic issues of case forming.
Honestly, I admire your gusto, but you are into areas that are going to end up with broken guns, fingers and eyes. Spend more time researching fireforming, neck sizing, wildcatting and less making ammo before you hurt yourself.
2) Since your brass shows clearly that your cases are NOT forming consistently, and your primers are backing out, it is evident that the cases are backing out of the chamber (in a sense your "die") as they are forming. This is because every one seems to be moving differently as the bolt backs up under recoil. You will never get good brass using this technique.
3) Your primers are backing out because your headspace is all over the place. Your initial fireform relies on the bolt moving at the same rate and timing on every case, but your handmade cases are too thick in the neck for a proper bullet release. So the whole process is irregular, hence irregular brass.
No offense, but you are playing with a bomb in front of your face.
Just cause you haven't eaten gas yet doesn't mean you won't. I am not being a jerk. I am just warning you that you are on really shakey ground.
If you insist on forming brass from a blow back, you have to:
1) get a good chamber cast and get real measurements
2) learn to use a ball mic and neck turning equipment
3) understand that your case(before fireforming) has to have a loaded round clearance inside your chamber neck area of .003 at least of you are sticking bullets in the case until the case starts to back out.
4) Understand that all the powder, spring, buffer changes will not fix these basic issues of case forming.
Honestly, I admire your gusto, but you are into areas that are going to end up with broken guns, fingers and eyes. Spend more time researching fireforming, neck sizing, wildcatting and less making ammo before you hurt yourself.
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