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Plain bearing oil clearance?

I just picked up a Sheldon KS 11x36 lathe.It has solid bronze bearings and I shimmed them to .001 oil clearance and oiled with 20 wt oil. They spin real smooth, and stop after 2-3 revolutions when spun hard by hand. Is this correct? If I go any tighter it feels like it starts to grab. Should I use some sharpie and try to see any high spots or leave it as-is? Torque bolts is ~20 ft lbs.

I am using south bend specs here because sheldon specs are not available, unless someone here knows.

The lathe is not set in place yet or leveled, so I don't know if that is causing the head casting to flex or not.

The lathe seems to be in good condition and runs near silent. The only sound is the motor and drive gears purring. I am picking up a replacement belt tomorrow. An 8 rib serpentine, part number 080400, about 1.1 " wide and ~40.5" long. It's the same length as the one that was on it and I have seen others with the same size belt. I was thinking if trimming/sanding off the ribs and making it a true flat belt and to make it more flexible.

i also have a (1 hp?) treadmill motor and a 3/4 hp 1725 rpm 220v motor to install to replace the 1/3 hp motor that was on it. I also have a heavy duty 3hp commercial treadmill motor if needed. That one is a beast. I like the variable speed, especially after putting one on my drill press, but would the 3/4 hp motor be better overall? I hear of people burning up treadmill motors on lathe conversions, so I would like to get some more input.

I paid $1400 for it and it came with 2 face plates, one 3 jaw chuck (need a 4 jaw), a pile of old style tool holders and a couple of posts, a quickchange tool post, 8 or 9 quickchange toolholders, mics from 1-3", a .001" dial indicator with mag base, full set of change gears (never used), solid steady rest, carriage stop, mt keyless chuck, mt live and dead centers, boring bar holder, and a knurling tool. The seller was advertising it as a starter package. The lathe spoke to me and I couldn't leave it there, so it came home with me.

The chuck is solid, but the jaws need to be ground to square them up and remove .010" runout. I didn't feel any slop in the tail quill and the carriage is smooth with minimal backlash. He said he started on it and got it from an older fellow who had it in his basement for "decades". Someone put glass lunkenheimer #1 shaft oilers on it, but one of the globes is missing. I will probably replace them with regular oil cups because the globes don't clear the cast housing and I don't want to break one.

I got it to thread my own rifle barrels, possibly make cans, make and fix parts around the farm, and to make adapters and other odds and ends that we end up needing on a pretty regular basis.

I am all ears, for better or worse. Let me hear the good, the bad, and the ugly.....wah...WAH....wah.....
 
I just picked up a Sheldon KS 11x36 lathe.It has solid bronze bearings and I shimmed them to .001 oil clearance and oiled with 20 wt oil. They spin real smooth, and stop after 2-3 revolutions when spun hard by hand. Is this correct? If I go any tighter it feels like it starts to grab. Should I use some sharpie and try to see any high spots or leave it as-is? Torque bolts is ~20 ft lbs.

I am using south bend specs here because sheldon specs are not available, unless someone here knows.

The lathe is not set in place yet or leveled, so I don't know if that is causing the head casting to flex or not.

The lathe seems to be in good condition and runs near silent. The only sound is the motor and drive gears purring. I am picking up a replacement belt tomorrow. An 8 rib serpentine, part number 080400, about 1.1 " wide and ~40.5" long. It's the same length as the one that was on it and I have seen others with the same size belt. I was thinking if trimming/sanding off the ribs and making it a true flat belt and to make it more flexible.

i also have a (1 hp?) treadmill motor and a 3/4 hp 1725 rpm 220v motor to install to replace the 1/3 hp motor that was on it. I also have a heavy duty 3hp commercial treadmill motor if needed. That one is a beast. I like the variable speed, especially after putting one on my drill press, but would the 3/4 hp motor be better overall? I hear of people burning up treadmill motors on lathe conversions, so I would like to get some more input.

I paid $1400 for it and it came with 2 face plates, one 3 jaw chuck (need a 4 jaw), a pile of old style tool holders and a couple of posts, a quickchange tool post, 8 or 9 quickchange toolholders, mics from 1-3", a .001" dial indicator with mag base, full set of change gears (never used), solid steady rest, carriage stop, mt keyless chuck, mt live and dead centers, boring bar holder, and a knurling tool. The seller was advertising it as a starter package. The lathe spoke to me and I couldn't leave it there, so it came home with me.

The chuck is solid, but the jaws need to be ground to square them up and remove .010" runout. I didn't feel any slop in the tail quill and the carriage is smooth with minimal backlash. He said he started on it and got it from an older fellow who had it in his basement for "decades". Someone put glass lunkenheimer #1 shaft oilers on it, but one of the globes is missing. I will probably replace them with regular oil cups because the globes don't clear the cast housing and I don't want to break one.

I got it to thread my own rifle barrels, possibly make cans, make and fix parts around the farm, and to make adapters and other odds and ends that we end up needing on a pretty regular basis.

I am all ears, for better or worse. Let me hear the good, the bad, and the ugly.....wah...WAH....wah.....
Slow down. Sounds like you have plenty to work with. Learn a few things with it as is before spending any money. Plenty YouTube's to watch. HAVE fun and be careful.
 
Level that baby up and get proper spindle oil. The oil wedge formed by the correct oil is what gives you the clearance on these type bearings. A guy on ebay sells a south bend oil kit that comes with the proper oils. Dont do anything with it until its leveled and untwisted. South bend sold a book you can buy or view copies of that tells you how to set it up perfectly.
 
The spindle bore is 1.06" or a bit bigger. I know a 1" rod wobbles inside pretty good, But it isn't the 1 3/8 that the books mention.
 
Old babbitt bearing & bronze bearing rule of thumb:

0.001" plus 0.0005" per inch of shaft diameter.

Example: 2 inch shaft:

0.001" plus 2 times 0.0005" gives us 0.002". Measure with PlastiGauge. Or a dial indicator.

Do not use a thick oil. I use Union turbine oil 32 as I have 10 gallons of the stuff.

Most old plain bearing lathes have an adjustment and a shim pack for the bearing housing.

A South Bend of course.

pd8Fvj9.jpg


My other lathes have Timken roller bearings.

61fyd47.jpg


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I’d say you’ve found a good solid machine at a very, very good price.
Enjoy, learn, practice and use it as the wonderful tool it is.
 

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