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Pin gauge to check for loose primer pockets.

I am interested in hearing how it did not work out for you and why? You have loose pockets and pin gages and are you saying a pin gauge that says the pocket is tight was in fact lose? Or visa versa?

With my pin gages coming in 0.001" increments, I just couldn't find the pair to work as a go, no-go combo. I would need smaller increments. I'm sure the pockets weren't round, and with pin gages you are measuring the minor diameter, not the major diameter.

There was a downside to the experience. I decided to fire some of the rounds with questionable primers (too loose) in a bolt action. My thought was if the primer was too loose, it wouldn't drop into the FCG of my AR. Well,,, some of the Rem 7 1/2 failed like the 9 1/2 primers did 20 years ago. The primer swells to fill the pocket, and fails at the corner where the face turns down. Gas cuts on the bolt face.

I also tested some of the questionable loose primers by using the Lee depriming rod to press the primer out with finger pressure. This was after reading about how folks check by tapping the case head on a table to see if they fall out. This also proved ineffective. I now have very good "feel" using a hand priming system. When in doubt throw it out. You don't want this to happen.

[URL=http://s860.photobucket.com/user/jepp2/media/Remington%20Primer%20Failure_zpsymw1hvrr.jpg.html][/URL]
 
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With my pin gages coming in 0.001" increments, I just couldn't find the pair to work as a go, no-go combo. I would need smaller increments. I'm sure the pockets weren't round, and with pin gages you are measuring the minor diameter, not the major diameter.

There was a downside to the experience. I decided to fire some of the rounds with questionable primers (too loose) in a bolt action. My thought was if the primer was too loose, it wouldn't drop into the FCG of my AR. Well,,, some of the Rem 7 1/2 failed like the 9 1/2 primers did 20 years ago. The primer swells to fill the pocket, and fails at the corner where the face turns down. Gas cuts on the bolt face.

I also tested some of the questionable loose primers by using the Lee depriming rod to press the primer out with finger pressure. This was after reading about how folks check by tapping the case head on a table to see if they fall out. This also proved ineffective. I now have very good "feel" using a hand priming system. When in doubt throw it out. You don't want this to happen.

[URL='http://s860.photobucket.com/user/jepp2/media/Remington%20Primer%20Failure_zpsymw1hvrr.jpg.html'][/URL]
http://[URL=http://s860.photobucket...on Primer Failure_zpsymw1hvrr.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
In the end, this may be the best advice.
 
Hi, just a few clarifications. Uniquetek and Brownells are both distributors of the Ballistic Tools Swage Gage, it's all the same product.

And as was pointed out, when I designed the small swage gage, I had to pick dimensions that were going to "split the difference" with all the different primer brands out there, since the small primer pocket dimensions don't really have a "tolerance dead zone". The dimensions I picked seem to work well for the most common primers and primer pockets.

About pin gauges, it would be best to get a 0.0005" set if you were going to go that way.

Another option is to use a hole gauge:

https://www.zoro.com/westward-small-hole-gage-set-4ku94/i/G3506492/

It's quite a bit slower using a hole gauge and if you aren't careful you can bump the setting on it, but a hole gauge can be calibrated to any specific size you want.
 
And as was pointed out, when I designed the small swage gage, I had to pick dimensions that were going to "split the difference" with all the different primer brands out there, since the small primer pocket dimensions don't really have a "tolerance dead zone". The dimensions I picked seem to work well for the most common primers and primer pockets.

What are the dimensions you chose for the go/no-go portions?
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Really don't need anything except the Swage Gauge, it won't fit in new Lapua brass undersized pockets, when you get lots of wiggle room on the go end and the no-go will start, toss the brass. You'll pretty quickly get a feel for what is 'good' and 'bad' for your particular situation.
 
Really don't need anything except the Swage Gauge, it won't fit in new Lapua brass undersized pockets, when you get lots of wiggle room on the go end and the no-go will start, toss the brass. You'll pretty quickly get a feel for what is 'good' and 'bad' for your particular situation.

What is the diameter of the Swage Gauge?
-
 
The Ballistic Tool gauges are a great solution. Note that they've got a 3-pack available, containing SPP/LPP gauges and a .224/.308 neck gauge. The neck gauge I use from time to time, but the primer pocket gauges never leave the bench; they get used on every rifle case.
 
My SR is .1734" on the go end, .1750" on the no-go.

Those are my measurements, someone else could be a tenth or two either way.
 
Use a hand held seating tool and cull any brass you encounter that seats with -0- effort. Once you've done enough to get the feel for the tension you need to overcome, you will know the correct feel.
 
My SR is .1734" on the go end, .1750" on the no-go.

Those are my measurements, someone else could be a tenth or two either way.
I've done some measurements of my Wolf SRP - 12 primers each measured two times and averaged. Duplicates were all </= to 0.0002" variance except two which were 0.00020" and 0.00040".

Average =0.17505", Max = 0.17530", Min = 0.17483", and Range = 0.00048".

Measurements were done with a Mito digital micrometer.
 

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