Pillars w/o bottom metal

[KMW 1954]

A new issue for me.

I have bedded and pillared a number of stocks but they have all had bottom metal other than a Boyd's Spike Camp for a Savage 10 Blind Mag which I just glass bedded and it also had an escutcheon in the stock for the front action screw. So while investigating this I also looked at the original wood stock and it to had an escutcheon.

Looking at these I am unable to determine if the escutcheons used are stepped and then fitted or if they are straight walled and just press fitted.

I ask this question because I am beginning work on a Richards stock for that same Savage Model 10 Blind Magazine that uses no bottom metal. My concern is affixing the new pillar in this stock and how to keep it from pulling out with use.

In other words, if using a straight walled pillar and just epoxying it in place what is there to prevent the pillar and action screw from pulling out of the wood stock?

 

[Leeman]

I have three stocks I've done with straight pillars, no seperate escutcheons, the front action screw just bears on the underside of the pillar, they were roughed up on the outside and had ribs machined in then glued in prior to bedding. One of these was done nearly 20 years ago, all still sound. Having said that, the one I am currently working on will use a stepped pillar, just to be different.

 

[LVLAaron]

If I'm using a stainless pillar, I just put an 82 degree bevel on it and get the screw to sit flush.

 

[tobnpr]

In other words, if using a straight walled pillar and just epoxying it in place what is there to prevent the pillar and action screw from pulling out of the wood stock?

You need to create a solid, mechanical bond of the pillar to the stock and not rely on the chemical bond of the epoxy alone.

When I'm turning them on the lathe I use the parting tool to cut grooves into them which prevents them from pulling out- in a pinch, a grinder will do the same thing. You want to create relief to provide some "tooth" for the epoxy to grab. "Roughing up" the smooth surface of the pillars with sandpaper might work- but I prefer to get a solid mechanical lock.

 

[KMW 1954]

You want to create relief to provide some "tooth" for the epoxy to grab. "Roughing up" the smooth surface of the pillars with sandpaper might work- but I prefer to get a solid mechanical lock.

I understand all that though we also know that wood expands and contracts with weather conditions and that epoxy has a tendency to shrink.

Having always had stocks with bottom metal I never considered the pillar and screw pulling out.

Being very familiar with mechanical bonds of aluminum using rivets that still become loose.

 

[boltfluter]

Find a way to put some grooves in the stock, Just like the pillars and you will have a mechanical lock. If done correctly, this will be bomb proof! Get after it, and keep us posted.
Paul

 

[LVLAaron]

Find a way to put some grooves in the stock, Just like the pillars and you will have a mechanical lock. If done correctly, this will be bomb proof! Get after it, and keep us posted.
Paul

1/2-13 tap works well

 

[ricco1949]

I started out doing straight pillars with a shallow 32 tpi roughing cut on OD for a mechanical bond....never failed.

Now I make T shaped pillars 5/8" for first .100 and then 1/2" the remainder....with corresponding stock holes for the pillars to shoulder on. Probably overkill but gives me peace of mind...

 

[KMW 1954]

Now I make T shaped pillars 5/8" for first .100 and then 1/2" the remainder....with corresponding stock holes for the pillars to shoulder on. Probably overkill but gives me peace of mind...

This is sort of what I have been thinking after looking at the escutcheons used on the other Savage. Sadly I do not have a lathe to cut my own.

Also because I have used 3 different Boyd's stocks on different Savage rifles and so far every one of them has split between the magwell and the trigger inletting.

 

[rjtfroggy]

On my Savages I always used lamp rod, it may not look the best (but who sees it), but it does the job.

 

[ricco1949]

Also because I have used 3 different Boyd's stocks on different Savage rifles and so far every one of them has split between the magwell and the trigger inletting.

You can fix those splits with finishing trim screws.

Drill hole minor diameter of screw almost through stock, counter bore first half for screw OD and also for the screw head.

Squeeze some aviation grade super glue into the split. Turn in epoxy laden screws to tighten split, cover screw head with black epoxy, sand and finish when cured.

It'll look like it's OEM.

 

[AlNyhus]

I normally use a straight pillar and either a flat counter bore with an Allen headed button screw or an 82 degree taper for an 82 degree flat head Allen head cap screw. On the 82 degree ones, I do a light lapping of the mating surfaces. The large pillar was in a gun with issues that came in for help. The grooves weren't deep enough and it was loose in the stock. Not my work.