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Piecing Together Reloading Equipment?

Guys,
Trying to decide what to buy to get started, and have so many opinions. So, if you guys were going to buy equipment from different manufacturers, what would every suggest to get. Redding press, RCBS scales, etc?
 
musselvalley said:
Trying to decide what to buy to get started, and have so many opinions. So, if you guys were going to buy equipment from different manufacturers, what would every suggest to get.?

Here's two to start with: a Forster Co-Ax press: http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=38303/Product/FORSTER-CO-AX-Reloading-Press

and the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 Combo powder dispenser: http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=rc98923

Although the prices for both items above look very competitive, shop around for the best price.
 
What disciplines will you be shooting? will you be loading at the range like the short-range benchrest shooters do?

Will all have a bearing on your reloading equipment.
 
You haven't given us any info about yourself to go on, such as what kind of shooting you do, what level of experience you have, what kind of precision you're seeking...

Absent that, I'll take a stab at general advise:

Reloading book? FIRST, buy and read the ABCs of Reloading. Read it two more times. After that, Hornady, Nosler, Sierra, others all publish books with loading info. Buy at least two, and start reading. As a beginner, START LOW, and work up.

Press? Get a single stage press as a beginner. If you're a high volume shooter, a progressive may be in order, but not to start. Look at Forster, Redding or RCBS. Lee if you're on a budget.

Dies? Redding or Forster full length sizing and seater dies. Learn how to properly adjust them. Worry about fancier dies (neck, bushings, etc.) after you get a bit of experience. Keep them clean.

Case lube? Lots of ways to skin this cat, but I think Imperial case sizing wax is the best combination of effectiveness, cost and lack of mess.

Scale? I think a beginner would be well served with a good beam scale (RCBS or Redding), and a powder drop from RCBS or Redding. If you've got the cash, the RCBS Chargemaster can be a huge time saver.

Caliper? Get a good quality caliper, and bullet comparator for the caliber you're shooting, you'll need it.

I think the RCBS primer tool is a pretty good buy, and does a good job.

Components? Buy some brass and some appropriate primers, and don't mix them with components from other manufacturers. Don't buy a lot of brass, as you're learning and will likely make some mistakes.

After that, there are a million little doo-dads you can buy and use. Some are highly valuable, others have questionable value. IMO the fun of reloading is figuring out the riddle of what actually matters.

Good luck!

-nosualc
 
I don't shoot any competitions, just local shoots between buddies that are competitive. I won't be loading at the range, but want accuracy. Spent the money on the guns, I want them to shoot what they like! Don't really have a budget, just want the best bang for the buck.
 
Outdoorsman said:
musselvalley said:
Trying to decide what to buy to get started, and have so many opinions. So, if you guys were going to buy equipment from different manufacturers, what would every suggest to get.?

Here's two to start with: a Forster Co-Ax press: http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=38303/Product/FORSTER-CO-AX-Reloading-Press

and the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 Combo powder dispenser: http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=rc98923
Been looking on ebay all morning at this scale, Natchez has this for a good price!!!
Although the prices for both items above look very competitive, shop around for the best price.
 
Guess the best way to answer is how I started ( 2007 ) with a reloading kit..a turret press which i sold ..a powder measure that was a Pia to set up ( now gone ).. a case trimmer that was hard to adjust ( now gone ) a case lube pad i never used..in all a waste of money..what i have now is a Forster Co-Ax press ( really like it )..a RCBS 1010 scale..Redding trickler..RCBS charge master...Wilson case length trimmer....Wilson case gages for everything i reload .Lee case length trimmers ( easy and does a nice job as long as you do it by hand ..not power ) Imperial sizing wax and fingers..Lyman case tumbler..Redding competition dies..RCBS competition seater die..Lee colet dies..Forster dies..a Lee challenger breech lock press..Hornady concentricty tool ( not really necessary ) Various calipers and micrometers..Hornady AOL gage..Hornady head space gage..Hornady bullet comparator..use all of the above and thru trial and error ..that's how i got to this list of equipment..hope this help and shotcuts it for you
 
That is exactly what I was after. I was wondering if the kits were worth it. I was afraid if I bought one, I would only like one or two components. Thanks.
 
For hunting including precision varminting reloads:

Dies - Redding Standard two die set - full sizer and seater - you can produce very high quality reloads with these. - high quality dies that will last a life time

Priming Tool - Sinclair (for low volume rifle) - best on the market in my opinon.

Trimmer - Wilson with Sinclair upgrades (best on market in my opinion)

Press - RCBS - single stage for low volume rifle - no strong opinion of this time, Redding, Hornady, etc will all work fine.

Scale - best you can afford - I use an RCBS beam balance but I have no strong opinion of this item - mine is 40 years old - still maintains calibration within .1 grain

Lube - Hornady One Shot w/ Sinclair Lube block - make sure you lube inside of die also

Special - Wilson Case Gage for setup of full size die to assure you are sizing the proper amount (headspace). - a must in my opinion to produce safe reloads.

Necessary Tools: Loading Block, Veriner Caliper, Primer Pocket Clearner, Flash Hole Deburring Tool, Chamfering Tool - See Sinclair or Midway catalog
 
Forgot one essential item: Reloading Manual - Lyman's Reloading Guide is the best in my opinion for a beginner - explains everything you need to know.
 
I too started with a kit (RCBS). The only thing that remains from the kit is the rockchucker press (which I barely use anymore) and the primer tool. Everything else got sold or relegated to the back of my reloading junk drawer.

-nosualc
 
Read this book. It has a wealth of good info. Rate it.

http://www.zediker.com/books/handloading/hlmain.html ;)
 
musselvalley,
I too reload my own ammo, but do not compete and do it for fun. I tried the "kit" route and like others, sold or gave most of it away. But one of things you want to consider, it the extent to which you want to reload, plus the various calibers that might involve. I reload for 6 different calibers and adhere to strict accuracy disciplines of reloading mostly because of having read books by Tony Boyer and Mike Ratigan, well know and accomplished Benchrest Shooters. Having said that, I have two presses, onethe RCBS Rock Chucker (the old dependable one) and a Redding Big Boss that allows me to get into magnum loads, if I prefer and makes resizing the 30-06's and larger, much easier. Beyond that, for my 6mmbr and others, I use both Redding Dies as well as Wilson Bullet Seating dies for all the calibers (except 30-30) which gives me the best "run out" when checking my finished cartridges on the Concentrity Guages I use. Do yourself a favor as well, there is an excellent basic reloading book that is available, whether for bolt gun or semi auto reloading. It is entitled "ABC's of Reloading," 8th Edition by Bill Chevalier. It is easy reading with pictures written for both the novice and experienced reloader. Beyond that, I would encourage you to also read Tony Boyer and Mike Ratigan's books that address, "Extreme Accuracy" which Benchrest Shooters look for each time they sit down at a shooting Bench. Each talks about what enabaled them to shoot their reloads at the hioghest levels of accuracy possible. I found their wririntg also helped me to find both the accuracy I wanted and what equipment helped them get to that level. PErsonal prefernece sometimes plays a p[art in what you like in equipment or even dislike in reloading equipment. As you know, theres a ton of it available so don't do like I did, buy all sorts of stuff and end up giving most of it away or selling it. Just some things to think about. And make no mistake, if you don't plan on competing SERIOUSLY, don't need all the "Cadillac" equipment that is available. Mid range equipment will work just fine and put a smile on your face.
 
Press: Rockchucker converted to Lock-n-load, for home use, Harrell's for range use.

Dies: For factory chambers, you might try the combination of Lee Collet, and Redding body dies, and Forster Ultra seater
.
Trimmer: Wilson (Keep your Wilson stuff lightly oiled between uses. They they are the standard, but rust easily.)

Scale: any of the RCBS balance scales that have agate under the knife edges, then have it tuned up or do it yourself, if you are handy

Powder Measure: any that have some sort of system so that they can be accurately returned to the same setting. I have a Harrell's that I like.

Priming tool: I have several hand tools. They all work, but I have a 21st Century that I think that I am going to like better than my Sinclair. It is Stainless, and does not have a magazine. I prefer "single shot" hand priming tools. I seat by feel, as do almost all short range benchrest shooters.

Lube: RCBS Case Lube II (water soluble) applied lightly and evenly with fingers, wiped off with a wet cloth.

Case neck powder fouling removal: Outside 0000 steel wool : Inside: an old bronze bore brush on an accessory handle, pushed in and out about 3 times. Don't clean down to the brass on the inside. Leave a film.
Primer pockets: For flash hole burrs use a tool that is appropriate to the flash hole size. I don't cut the bottoms of pockets. I think that a cutter adjusted to just clean the deepest pocket is good for powder fouling, but doing this every time does not yield better accuracy.

Manual: Look several over and buy the one that you like best. I like the Nosler, but I also have Hornady, Sierra, Hodgdon, Lee, and Speer that I have picked up over the years. These days, with the internet, I think that they are less needed for data, but they all have instructions for the beginner that are good to read, more than once.

I prefer dial calipers to digital, because they are just as easy for me to read, more economical (don't spend a lot of money for reloading.) and you won't get caught with a dead battery.

If you want to play with turning necks, just make sure that the tool has a carbide mandrel. They have less tendency to transfer brass from the case. A 1" micrometer that reads to .0001 and a neck micrometer are good if you are turning necks. For the latter I like my Holland. Both are technique sensitive, so practice if you get them.

Loading Blocks: I have some old MTM universal that serve a variety of calibers, as well as wood and plastic that are head size specific. They all work.

Concentricity gauge: Sinclair

Bump Gauge (attachment for calipers): Hornady (formerly Stoney Point)

Loaded round length measured off of bullet ogive gauge: Hornady

Seating depth tool: Sinclair, and or Hornady

Now, on the loading at the range thing....
I have done both, and for me trying to work up loads by doing test rounds at home is like running with one shoe on, pointless and inefficient. You will wast a lot of time, components, barrel steel, fuel, and never get to as sharp of a tune. It does have one "good" feature. You will not be guilty of being different. Of course every short rang benchrest shooter that I have ever met or talked to works up his loads at the range, but you copy who you want to shoot like.

Another thing, get something to look at the wind. If you have not seen a row of flags that are posted between a shooter and the target, you may not know how much difference there is between what you feel at the bench, and what is going on at various yardages down range. I just love it when fellows tell me that they only test loads when the wind is not blowing. Most of the time that is like saying that they test when the earth stops rotating ;-)

One final bit of advice: If you want different results, you have to change something that you are doing. So often, I see shooters "trying harder" and doing the same failed tests over and over. Also, trying to work up loads with a rifle that has not been properly bedded is, more often than not, a complete waste of time. If you can find a mentor, that is clearly getting the results that you desire, this would be a very good thing. Over the years I have benefited greatly from the advice of my shooting betters. They have been very generous with their time.
 
Are you confused yet,LOL. Boyd nailed it. You could kit up but imho get the books first before you start buying.Sinclair had a good little book on precision reloading,I have a copy and it was very imformative.My first reloading manual was hornady and they go into it with most of what you need to get started.If you have a friend that reloads,have him teach you the basics.Number one rule-SAFETY FIRST and dont load hot,work up.Ask all the questions you need to on this site to get all your questions answered,even if you think that they may sound silly.
 
So many excellent choices being given, I'll add mine to the mix: RCBS Rockchucker press for heavy duty work, RCBS "Partner" for light duty. Redding, Forster & Wilson dies, the majority being neck bushing types, Sinclair Arbor press, Forster case trimmer, RCBS bench mount priming tool, ( the old design with manual single feed), RCBS Uniflow powder measure for ball powder, RCBS 505 scale for extruded, K&M inside taper neck reamers, one for each caliber, Sinclair NT-1000 & NT-4000 outside neck turners, Mitutoyo & Starrett tubing & regular micrometers, dial calipers, Stoney Point/Hornary chamber O.A.L. gauges, Sinclair coincintricity gauge, homemade hardwood loading blocks. Imperial Die Wax.

And while I'm at it, for components: Lapua brass for every ctg. where it's available, or Winchester, Berger, Fowler & Sierra bullets, CCI BR4 & Fed. 205/205N primers, Various Vihta Vouri powders, Varget, H4198, 2400 ( for 357 Mag) Bullseye for 45 Auto.
 
I was going to get a kit but after doing lots of research didn't. You need to look at the gear part of this site doing reloading tool research is how I found the accurate shooter.com sight. You will learn a lot lokking at the gear part of this sit. I was and still is VERY, VERY good info, but I don't see much about it. Really have never seen anything like it anywhere.
I all most just got any old lee press and saw the one in the gear review big big dif.

Good luck, Newgun.....
 
Guys,
All I can say is thanks. Sounds like to me the equipment choice is mine since everyone has thru out a number of choices. You have all been a great help. I'm not confused, I'm just curious!!! Thanks again to all!
 
Excellent advice. Contrary to the other advice, I think the "kits" are worth the money. I went with an RCBS kit years ago and still use several of the main components of the kit including the Speer reloading manual, the RockChucker press, the scale, primer tool, the powder throw, the deburring tool, loading block and hex key set. Now that I think about it the only thing I don't use any more is the case lube kit (use imperial die wax now) and the neck cleaning brushes.

I've seen some deals recently on the RCBS kit and RCBS was offering some incentives of their own. I doubt you can buy all this equipment used and get a better deal than the package.

One thing I didn't see listed would be a bullet pulling tool. I like the inertia style tool the best. No avoiding it...you will seat some bullets to deep and/or make other errors.
 
Only one piece of advice to add to all the good advice above. When I started to accumulate all my reloading gear in 1970, my buddy looked at my list and said to invest in one more item - an RCBS Stuck Case Remover kit.

Only needed it twice in 40 years of reloading, lol, but as far as I'm concerned it paid for itself the first time I needed it. Without it, it's a bit harder and more time consuming to dig out of that little problem.
 

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